TX 2160F, with front loader and backhoe, long term project

marcelPL · Oct 26, 2020

Looks awesome!! I can only imagine the time you spent with the spray-gun...

M.

Marcle · Oct 27, 2020

chrismac said:
Time to clean out the hydraulic spool valves for the backhoe, the leavers were a bit on the sticky side so I pulled of each end cover to investigate,

DSC02847 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Have you managed to find a source of replacement gaiters on the arms?

Any idea what the make and model number of the valve chest is please?

I've tried various hydraulic suppliers, but they all want to know the make etc.

Is the Beaver company still operating?

Thanks

Steve

chrismac · Oct 27, 2020

Hi Steve, I did have a study of the valve chest, but there does not seem to be much or any information on it, I will take another look on the spare set, Polymark Beaver were bought over years ago so unfortunatly no way of contacting them, I have even done a google search and looked over many types of leavers and saw nothing like the ones fitted to our backhoes.
I did buy a couple of ball joint covers, not perfect, I was going to get a smaller size that previously bought as my sizing was slightly out, I can let you know how I get on, I might go down the bike tube like one guy said in your post if nothing comes up soon as a stop gap for just now,

Thanks as always Marcel, hope you are keeping well.

Chris

Marcle · Oct 28, 2020

chrismac said:
Hi Steve, I did have a study of the valve chest, but there does not seem to be much or any information on it, I will take another look on the spare set, Polymark Beaver were bought over years ago so unfortunatly no way of contacting them, I have even done a google search and looked over many types of leavers and saw nothing like the ones fitted to our backhoes.
I did buy a couple of ball joint covers, not perfect, I was going to get a smaller size that previously bought as my sizing was slightly out, I can let you know how I get on, I might go down the bike tube like one guy said in your post if nothing comes up soon as a stop gap for just now,

Thanks as always Marcel, hope you are keeping well.

Chris

Hi Chris,

I eventually found the accounts for Polymark/Beaver, as you say they went bump. I have found a guy on Facebook who was an engineer who used to work for them. I've ask for a FB friendship, so hopefully I can seek his knowledge on them.

Thanks

Steve

Firew00d · Oct 29, 2020

Looking great all that, Chris.

I have managed to get mine back to near home recently so hope to be getting loader hooked up to it very soon!

chrismac · Oct 29, 2020

Firew00d said:
Looking great all that, Chris.

I have managed to get mine back to near home recently so hope to be getting loader hooked up to it very soon!

ah thats good news, certainly better having it closer to home, looking forward to seeing how it comes together, good luck.

Chris

chrismac · Feb 14, 2021

Not much happening lately but getting some finishing touches, the trim is now on around the backhoe hydraulic block.

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

With everything tucked up for the winter I dont have the luxury of a big shed where I can spread out my projects, roll on the spring so I can get better organised.

Chris

chrismac · Mar 13, 2021

Some work has been going on over these last few months on the tractor, I got the old brass plates and gave them a clean up fixing them on with the correct hammer in rivets that they were fitted with originally, I think it finishes it of quite nicely,

DSC02882 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02883 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

I am most disappointed I have set the plate for the loader somewhere safe and now cant find it, I have turned the shed upside down to find it with no luck,

I have replaced the rear reflectors that were fitted with led lights, this took some head scratching as the dip and main beams are in separate circuits, a couple of relays under the dash, some more wires run in taking the earth wires back to a main earth rather than the body earths used commonly,

DSC02881 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

When I had the dash out I thought I might as well get the indicators working, then there was also the broken parking switch which could be put to good use,

Starting with the indicators, the old switch came separate to allow the connections to be cleaned up, the flasher unit was defective, the first replacement one I bought did not work, after many hours of trying to work out why, it was because the bulbs were not drawing enough watts for it to heat the bi-metal strip up to allow it to make and break giving the flash, opted for a relay type and it works a treat,

I thought it might be handy to have some rear work lights, some pondering over where to mount these best, opted for making some high mounts tying in with the indicator brackets, replacing the old broken parking switch with a new one for these lamps,

DSC02885 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02884 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02880 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

I was lucky enough to get a 9" bucket from a friend which was from a JCB mini digger, needed to change the brackets making up new ones, this was a size of bucket which I was looking out for as it is such a good size,

DSC02876 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02877 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02878 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Chris

chrismac · Nov 6, 2021

So today I made a start on a job I was afraid to tackle before I had done all the work to the tractor, I was not sure if spares were available or what like a task it would be, changing the axle oil seals, it turned out to be no a bad job to strip the axle down, couple of hours and one side was off, (I was probably as long cleaning the oil up, I made a mess on the shed floor) Monday now will see the order placed with my local dealer only 90 miles away, he was supposed to phone back today be he never did,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Thankfully I did not have to remove the front loader flatbars, there was enough flex to get the axle off with them in place,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

The bearings are all good so no need to replace anything else.

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Chris

chrismac · Nov 8, 2021

So as with most things iseki there are 2 types of oil seal!! thankfully after some discussions I have worked out which ones are fitted to mine,

Part number of the 2 sets of seals

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Physical sizes of the seals,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

This shoulder is actually part of the seal and needed to come off,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

like so

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Old seal now complete, NOK visible

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

With the replacement part number and seal also with NOK just visible

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Lets just hope the ones I require are the less expensive of the 2, £100 approx difference each item.

Chris

chrismac · Nov 12, 2021

So I ended up gambling on the seals ending in 400, they happen to be £30 each rather than £130 both plus vat totals would have been £80 or £300 plus, the size given was incorrect and the OD is 88mm, I got the new seal in, it was very tight on the shoulder where the old seal sat against and needed quite a bit of persuasion, probably slightly indenting the edge of the steel part of the new seal,

I made replacement gaskets by gently tapping round the casing with a small ball peen hammer,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Then we have the other side with the diff lock mechanism, pretty straight forward how it works,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

The leaver just pulls the internals pushing the fork out engaging the rectangular dogs,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Some strange marks in the internal bearing surface, the shaft has matching marks, no steps or roughness can be found so not sure what has caused it,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Some damage can be seen on the other side of the diff lock mechanism

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

So over the weekend I'll get it reassembled and see if the casings hold the oil with no leaks.

Chris

chrismac · Dec 18, 2021

Having been plagued with hydraulic oil leaks from the loader spool valves due to corrosion and pitting to the spool internals, having tried many hydraulic engineers to find replacement parts but I was unable to source anything, I bit the bullet and bought a replacement double monoblock spool.

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

But there is a problem, when I go to raise the loader, moving the leaver from its mid position to back makes the loader lower until the leaver is fully back and the loader then starts raising, if you do it quick its not an issue but its not going to be very good for delicate work, I have emailed the suppliers to see if this is expected, I was made aware these are not proportional therefore only one leaver could be operated at one time, which maybe on paper is the case but not in real life, this conversation I had with the supplier but waited to see how the operation actually worked and it works fine, apart from the other issue.

If anyone knows I'd be interested to here why it is doing this.

Chris

ptsg · Dec 18, 2021

A valve with load holding check valves prevent that from happening. Basically, when feathering the controls, until the pressure on the pump matches the pressure on the cylinders, it cause it to drop. The load check valve, as the name suggests, holds the load on the cylinder preventing it from dropping. Then the pump overcomes that pressure and lifts the cylinders. Sorry, I'm not very good at explaining stuff, but if you search online, there are plenty of videos or pages explaining this in a better way.

You can either get a valve with those check valves, which will be more expensive or just live with what you have and learn how to overcome that. I had the same issues on my first homemade loader on a Kubota B7000 but I just learned how to handle it and it wasn't really an issue. It gets particularly worse if you're trying to do two functions at the same time.

chrismac · Dec 18, 2021

ptsg said:
A valve with load holding check valves prevent that from happening. Basically, when feathering the controls, until the pressure on the pump matches the pressure on the cylinders, it cause it to drop. The load check valve, as the name suggests, holds the load on the cylinder preventing it from dropping. Then the pump overcomes that pressure and lifts the cylinders. Sorry, I'm not very good at explaining stuff, but if you search online, there are plenty of videos or pages explaining this in a better way.

You can either get a valve with those check valves, which will be more expensive or just live with what you have and learn how to overcome that. I had the same issues on my first homemade loader on a Kubota B7000 but I just learned how to handle it and it wasn't really an issue. It gets particularly worse if you're trying to do two functions at the same time.

Thanks for your reply, thats makes sense, if only I had know that before buying this one, it was a shame the supplier did not make me aware of this before I made the purchase, I will see what they say and advise. I will be interested to see if they have a replacement, if not I will just live with it I guess, until or if I can get my original refurbished,

ptsg · Dec 18, 2021

chrismac said:
Thanks for your reply, thats makes sense, if only I had know that before buying this one, it was a shame the supplier did not make me aware of this before I made the purchase, I will see what they say and advise. I will be interested to see if they have a replacement, if not I will just live with it I guess, until or if I can get my original refurbished,

Definitely contact them and see what other option they have for your needs.

This tractor will be pretty much brand new once you finish it. You've been doing a great job!

chrismac · Dec 26, 2021

ptsg said:
Definitely contact them and see what other option they have for your needs.

This tractor will be pretty much brand new once you finish it. You've been doing a great job!

Thanks, its looking fine now,

So after a good number of emails to the supplier of the spool valve, I am no further on, they are blaming the old spool unused under the seat the hoses are passing through and they are also blaming the quick release couplings used in the detachable lines.

Here is a couple of videos of both spool valves fitted today as evidence it surely cant be the piping runs or redundant spool under the seat which I hope to be able to use in the future,

Original Spools, working as expected

https://flic.kr/p/2mThzCr

New Spools, notice the dropping before the raise when the leaver is pulled back.

https://flic.kr/p/2mTmFMB

Chris

ptsg · Dec 26, 2021

That's way worse than I ever experienced. Mine, for the most part, only did it while using two functions at the same time, which is kind of normal for these cheaper valves. The sectional valves have independent check valves for each spool, while most of the monoblock ones only have a main load check valve for all the functions.

I wonder if the load check valve is stuck open on that new valve if it has one. Do you know the manufacturer and model of that valve?

It's also a shame that the hydraulic shop is trying to turn things around on you and not really helping you. As long as the fluid goes to the new valve through the In port, what's after or before won't really matter for it's function.

chrismac · Dec 26, 2021

All valves apparently are bench tested before being sent out, there is a relief valve on the new spool, I did think about adjusting it but I'll leave it as it is for now, the old spools are fitted back on the tractor, worst case they can take it back as it is not doing what it should. The company who supplied the valve also possibly manufacture it, not sure if you could see but the original is a sectional valve.

Chris

ptsg · Dec 26, 2021

chrismac said:
All valves apparently are bench tested before being sent out, there is a relief valve on the new spool, I did think about adjusting it but I'll leave it as it is for now, the old spools are fitted back on the tractor, worst case they can take it back as it is not doing what it should. The company who supplied the valve also possibly manufacture it, not sure if you could see but the original is a sectional valve.

Chris

Yes, I noticed the original sectional valve. I scored one of those used for my homemade loader for €40 still in awesome shape and it's night and day difference compared to the cheaper monoblock valves. I believe it came from a on Case skidsteer or backhoe loader. It has load check valves, work port relief valve, anticavitation valves, all the bells and whistles really.

Too bad you could find any parts to fix the old one. Is the new one a Flowfit valve? Looks very similar to the valves they sell under their name.

chrismac · Dec 26, 2021

ptsg said:
Yes, I noticed the original sectional valve. I scored one of those used for my homemade loader for €40 still in awesome shape and it's night and day difference compared to the cheaper monoblock valves. I believe it came from a on Case skidsteer or backhoe loader. It has load check valves, work port relief valve, anticavitation valves, all the bells and whistles really.

Too bad you could find any parts to fix the old one. Is the new one a Flowfit valve? Looks very similar to the valves they sell under their name.

That was great find, I think the original is a vapormatic, unfortunately spares no longer exist, that valve is fine its just the spool I need, such a pity,

Your are correct with your stab at the new spool manufacturer!!
I might keep looking and see what turns up on ebay, they have a sectional valve at £325 I thought I would try this first and was advised by a hydraulic engineering firm I send a request to help with refurbishment of the original spool to just get a monoblock spool, cheaper option to a repair.