Well Pump Planing???

[E/S]

What does the static water level of 30 mean?

Does itmean the number of feet of water in the well when not pumping?

It means how mine feet below the surface the water WAS at that time.

E/S

 

[DaveOmak]

[*]Depth - 150
[*]Casing depth -130
[*]Static water Level 30
[*]Yield - 50 GPM

dieselscout,

Static water level means if you measure down the well, you will find water at 30 feet.

With your well you could set the pump anywhere between 100-140 feet.
Pumping less than 40GPM the well should not run out of water.

Using a five gallon bucket and a stop watch, Check your showers, sinks etc and see how long it takes to fill the bucket.
How many faucets , showers do you use at one time? Include lawn sprinklers etc.

If if takes 1 min 30 sec to fill the bucket at each location, you are using 3.4 gal/min per location. If you think you will have 3 faucets on at any time, you are using 10.2 GPM.

Most faucets are on for only a few seconds. Low flow shower heads are about 1.5 GPM.

Investigate you needs and plan accordingly with maybe a 50% cushion.

Overkill is expensive in the long run.

Everyone here has some good points.

I notice the internet prompts. You can learn lots from the net.

Don't hesitate to return with your plans if you have questions.

Dave

 

[JD955SC]

Please take the advice of earlier posters and buy a quality pump at a plumbing supply house vs. the Lowes grade pumps. When we put in our submersible oh, 7-8 years ago, it really didn't cost a whole lot more for a quality pump vs. the offerings at Lowes...our well is 340 feet deep and produces about 4 GPM...we also put one of those "packers" on it that produces a vacuum in the well...our water flow isn't high, but it is steady and a very reliable well, even during summer droughts. Do rig a safety line, too (I know of people that have pulled submersible pumps only to have the pipe break and the pump drops back down and a pro has to be called in to fish it out)

 

[mike69440]

Just to add cost and complication to your project, consider adding a frost free hydrant near the well head. Also wrap heat tape around the Frost free hydrant just in case. Use plenty of stone for drainage. If you can figure a clever way for a hand pump, do that, if the water table is normally high enough. My old home had a true artisan well and that was great when we lost power or just wanted to irrigate.

 

[dieselscout80]

I've been quoted $1500.00 to pull and replace the pump by two places. The one place said it takes about 4 hours to pull and replace the pump.

I'm thinking that it maybe smart to just keep an extra $1500 in savings to cover the job becuase I'm sure it would take me a longer than 4 hours top do this and I'd have rig up to do it and that might cost a bit too.

 

[JD955SC]

I've been quoted $1500.00 to pull and replace the pump by two places. The one place said it takes about 4 hours to pull and replace the pump.

I'm thinking that it maybe smart to just keep an extra $1500 in savings to cover the job becuase I'm sure it would take me a longer than 4 hours top do this and I'd have rig up to do it and that might cost a bit too.

Sounds about right, it's a fairly simple job, longest part is getting everything ready (pipes laid out and connected, wiring run up the pipe and secured, etc)

We did it ourselves without any specialized equipment, just about 4 people. For our pump, pipe, wire, electrical box, etc it all came out to about $1100 back when we put our new pump in.

 

[dieselscout80]

Well this year has been a hot dry one and we have been having to water pasture just to have grass. The watering has dropped the water pressure in the house by a noticeable amount which has got me thinking about my pump/pressure tank layout.

I have plenty of water in my well.

From well data plate:
Depth - 150
Casing depth -130
Diameter - 6
Screen Interval - blank to blank
Gravel Depth - looks like 0.2 (may just be zero) to 20
Static water Level 30
Yield - 50 GPM
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/195605-well-pump-planing-2.html#post2246955

I'm thinking of moving the pressure tank to my crawl space and installing a check valve so that water can only flow into the house. I'm thinking that this will let the pump run all the time when outside watering is being done and the pressure tank in the crawl space will keep the house pressure normal till the pressure tank empties. My pressure tank is 25 gal and I've thought I might want to add a second tank to keep the pressure high for longer.

PVC check valve
Shop AMERICAN VALVE 3/4" PVC Check Valve Socket at Lowes.com


Does this sound like a good idea?

 

[Egon]

You will still only achieve pump output watering pressure in the house.

Unless you close the valves to the watering lines.

what about the pressure switch settings and sensing points?

 

[DaveOmak]

Diesel Scout, Morning.
Have you determined the GPM the well pump puts out?
Measure that at 40 PSI. That will give you the amount of water you can use at a fairly good pressure.
If the flow and pressure are minimal, nothing you can do at the pressure tank will allow you irrigate and use the house at the same time and keep good flow and pressure.
Solution: Match a new submersible pump to your required needs......house + irrigation etc

Doing the project right this time will be the least expensive in the long run.

 

[dieselscout80]

You will still only achieve pump output watering pressure in the house.

Unless you close the valves to the watering lines.

what about the pressure switch settings and sensing points?

But only once the pressure tank/s are empty correct?