When do you replace the chain on a 3-PT. snowblower?

[Mark from Maine]

The unit is a 2003 Puma 64 inch. Chain size is 50 according to the owner's manual. I am the original owner. The idler sprocket is set at max and the chain is still floppy loose. Is it best to remove a set of links or install a new chain?

If I shorten the existing chain can I reuse the master link?

If I purchase a new chain is their anything I need to know beyond "size 50".

Would a new chain require new sprockets to match?
Thanks!
Mark

 

[PILOON]

As to chain, you only need the size, but confirm that a new master link is included.
They also sell 1/2 links as simply removing the one (or 2) causes a 'no fit'. And , yes, chains do stretch.

Re sprockets:
When new they have squared tips or teeth, if they are worn to the point of replacement they will look like sharp teeth on a handsaw.
Generally chains will stretch a fair bit B4 a sprocket/s will be need replacement.

 

[Egon]

Check the chain for stretch. That will tell if it needs replacement.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Roller chains that only get used for xx hours per year should last as long as the equipment as long as they're maintained and lubed. I don't "plan" to ever replace mine. Seems strange that you're completely out of adjustment, but I'd do whatever was needed to get back to the short end of the idler adjustment and just keep an eye on it. Look at the links -- if they're not elongated and worn out -- just shorten and adjust.

I had a roller chain that I did not inspect properly. When it finally did come off, I was amazed at how worn and uneven the links were. Take a close look. If your links are worn and all wallowed-out (Ky term), every trip around the sprockets make them worse and looser. Cheap to replace the chain. The sprockets should be ok but you can look them over too.

Short answer -- look carefully at the links of your chain. If possible, compare the links to a new link. It's easy to overlook how worn the links are, and that ultimately causes overall slack in the chain and rough operation across the sprockets.

 

[mcfarmall]

Check the chain for stretch. That will tell if it needs replacement.

Take the chain off and give it a good cleaning in solvent. Lay the chain flat on the bench, stretch and compress it in a linear fashion and look for movement between the links. If the sprocket teeth come to a knife point, replace them. A snowblower isn't as critical as a machine that relies on sprockets and chain for timing.

 

[Egon]

The chain should have a standard length measured over a number of links that will indicate the amount of wear.

 

[mcfarmall]

The chain should have a standard length measured over a number of links that will indicate the amount of wear.

I have a chain stretch measuring thingy from Diamond Chain in my tool box that I never use. Roller chain is cheap enough that we replace if there is any amount of detectable wear. When downtime costs the company $100k per hour, it's foolish to NOT replace anything that's worn or of questionable integrity.

 

[oosik]

I had a "standard" 3-point blower for 25 years. Regularly lubed the chain with spray motorcycle chain lube. Never had to replace the chain or sprocket. It was stored, off-season, under one stall in my carport and on a pallet.

 

[Mark from Maine]

Thank you everyone for your input, it was much appreciated. I am ordering a new chain this morning. It is inexpensive enough and looks to be a simple job to change.

 

[oosik]

Mark - if you are ordering a new chain. Order a new sprocket also. Damaged sprocket is not good for a new chain.

 

[Mark from Maine]

Yes, I was wondering about the sprockets. Should I replace both sprockets and the idler or just the drive sprocket? I googled Pronovost part number 6567 which I got from my owner's manual and only one hit came up for a supplier. White's Farm Supply in New York.

 

[oosik]

You will probably be OK just replacing the drive sprocket. The only thing to go bad with the idler would be the bearings or bushing - whichever it has. Grab the idler - can you make it wobble. If it doesn't - it's probably still good.

If you want to be super safe - get the drive, idler and a new chain. With proper maintenance you should be good for 20 to 25 years. Puma is a really great heavy duty blower.

Of course, you know, now that you are getting the blower all set up - it will probably only rain all winter. Ha, ha, ha

 

[LouNY]

Another easy way to check for wear on a roller chain is to hold it out straight with the side links up and down.
the more it sags out of flat is how much the pins and rollers are worn.
Also there are several grades and types of #50 roller chain, including #50H and even #530 motorcycle chain.
several here;
ANSI Roller Chains - American Standard Roller Chains

 

[Mark from Maine]

Update: I ended up replacing the chain, and also the drive and idler sprocket. In comparing the new to old drive and idler sprockets they appeared to show little to no wear. Both of the old sprockets still showed flat at the tops of each tooth. It looked just like the new ones. Idler bushing was good. But since I had purchased them I replaced them both. About $130 with shipping from Canada for just the sprockets. Seems like a lot of money but they do appear to be ruggedly built. And it is nice to know Provanost is willing to supply parts for older equipment. It took less than a week for my dealer to get the parts. No room to complain there.

What did show considerable wear was the large sprocket at the end of the auger. I did not purchase one so I ended up turning the sprocket around so the other side of the tooth will now be doing the work. It is snowing here now so I will be testing everything tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone again for your input, as always you have been a big help.
Mark from Maine

 

[nyone]

My blower takes the same #50 chain. I bought a 10ft section, 2 master links and 1 half link. There very cheap to have on hand...like $25

 

[Everhard]

I'm in the same boat! I bought a new (used) tractor and couldn't resist the deal for the blower that came with it - my old tractor also had a blower which worked fine but it's circa 1970's at a wild guess vs the new (used) blower that's likely less then 10 years old... The newer blower has a bigger fan and is 4 blade vs 3 so I figure it'll blow snow better then the old, and from what little snow I've had to clear I can say it does a great job.
But!
That chain is stretched out good. I've adjusted the idler to the max and it's still loose. I guess the original owner didn't bother oiling it much. shame as my ancient blower showed how a little maintenance goes a long way with that chain! Shame I didn't notice it when I bought it - I'd have worked a new chain into the deal... I've been debating taking a link out but I think I'll do it right and replace the chain.

E.

 

[PILOON]

Replacement is for sure is the better long term solution but I'll bet there is a lot of life in that old one.
Problem is that usually new chain is sold boxed and usually more than U need and also just too short to make up multiple of your lengths.
Either way, get extra full and 1/2 monkey links.

 

[jonsstihl]

just curious what are these half links everyone is refering to. my understanding is that the distance between each rivet has to be the same all around the chain so I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the idea of a half link. it would jam on the sprocket if it was half the length.

 

[LouNY]

It is a link with a male and a female end;

 

[shaeff]

just curious what are these half links everyone is refering to. my understanding is that the distance between each rivet has to be the same all around the chain so I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the idea of a half link. it would jam on the sprocket if it was half the length.

It's not actually half the size: