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Thanks for the ideas. I do have a piston ring compressor but it's too big. I ended up cutting some thin shim stock and using it like an expanding tube inside the barrel. I butted it right up against where the finished barrel size begins so it acted like a ramp. Went in fairly easy but then I...

I'm having trouble getting the new seal to enter the barrel on this single acting cylinder. I've rebuilt double acting cylinders before and the seal is tapered in a way that made it easier to get started. Is there any trick to doing this?

Here's the nut now that I took it off. Those slots closed up about .005" after I took it off, so it's some kind of lock nut although I still don't see how it works. Maybe they bent those wings slightly after they cut the slot to make it bind up on the thread. It was so hard to get off I used a...

Got it all apart, what is the purpose of the diagonally machined slot in the retaining nut on this rod? All it looks like it does is make the nut weaker. Seals were cracked from age but the cylinder and rod look like brand new. This cylinder was taken apart before I owned it, so the seals are...

I don't have any way to protect the surface, other than some painters tape. The seal between the valve body and cylinder is shown in the parts manual as a "dowty washer" which is some British thing, and a Banjo bolt with what looks like two crush washers. I'm thinking I'll take the hose fittings...

In your experience is it better to remove the 4 hose fittings from the check valve, or remove the check valve and leave hoses attached? I'm thinking it terms of the likelihood of having leaks or issues putting it back together.

Yes, that's a good idea. Surprisingly I did find a brief description in the manual about removing the two main cylinders. It says the one I'm working on can be removed without any additional support. The other cylinder requires a forklift or something to support the upper boom while the cylinder...

Yes, the bottom of the cage rests on a rubber pad, and the frame at the opposite end also rests in a cradle pointed to in photo below. I would feel better if that cylinder flopped around a little when I try to move it. It feels like it's being held very tight and I won't know for sure until I...

A single acting cylinder on my lift is squirting oil out the vent, so I assume the cylinder seal is bad. The check valve has 4 lines coming into it, I assume because it's synchronized with the leveling cylinder on the basket. My question is what is the safe way to relieve the pressure on the...

An accumulator is not listed in the options shown for my machine. I've left a couple messages for tech support to call me but haven't heard back. I want to ask them about some of this stuff that I can't understand. For years the same guy always answered the phone on their tech support line and...

I stumbled on this definition of "dump boost", which is one of the things on the logic diagram we didn't understand. How is this different than the pump dump logic? "In the context of hydraulics, dump boost refers to a system where a valve is used to quickly relieve pressure from a system...

Yeah, it's impossible to debug the board because they sprayed the bottom of the board with some kind of insulation to weatherproof it. It's also a multi layer trace so there's no way to figure out which terminals go where. I have the data sheet on the relays but it doesn't really do any good...

The plot thickens. The flow switch works properly, which means RL7 should be deenergized. But even with the flow switch disconnected from the circuit, connection point 115 in the diagram has 12v, which is inconsistent with the logic diagram. So the problem is starting to look more like a problem...

And that is the problem, RL7 is energized, which is preventing RL8 from being energized. I ran out of time working backwards to see why it's being energized but I feel like I'm closing in. I have a lot of time tomorrow, crossing my fingers.

Yeah, that was the first thing I did because I had nightmares imagining what a new pump would cost. Both the contactor and motor work fine when I jump them. I identified right away the problem is relay 8 isn't pulling in, I just haven't been able to figure out why. I think the help you provided...

OK I follow your thinking. I have to get my meter and trace those paths to see what's happening. Thanks for your time on this.

That is very helpful. If it's not too complicated, can you explain how you figured that out. agree Yes, and S1-S4 for the outriggers pads. I have no idea why they label those two logic paths as "Jack Light No 1" and "Jack Light No 2". Maybe on the other side of the ocean that means something...

I think the flow switch ensures there is hydraulic flow. If there isn't, it shuts off the engine/motor so you can't damage the pump. It would make sense for it to also determine when the dump valve should close because if there's flow, the motor is up to speed. I can't find one, and can't see...

There are 3 other circuits on the logic diagram I'd like to understand as long as I'm doing this. I'm not sure it will help solve my problem but I'll be a little smarter: One is "Slew Motor Bypass" which I assume is to avoid too high a pressure on the hydraulic motor that drives the slew motion...

I attached the hydraulic schematic. In photo 8933 you might be looking at the manual hydraulic hand pump. That's used if the system fails, you can lower the boom by pumping that by hand.

Yes, all my cylinders have pilot operated check valves built right on the cylinder.

Interesting, my motor seems to labor as much when I lower as when I raise. I wonder if that's because it has to run the cage leveling cylinders?

Thanks, now I understand. If I understand the operation, the dump valve is energized when I push the button that turns on a hydraulic pump (either motor or gas engine, it doesn't matter), but then something has to deenergize it so it closes. I'm guessing the flow switch is somehow doing that...

Here's an overview of where things are, the DC motor and tank are just to the left of the batteries. The DC motor drives a pump that lives inside the tank. The gas engine at the far end drives it's own pump that's external and visible. Here's a view of DC motor, the contactor is right on top...

Thanks, that helps me make sense of the logic diagram. I have a parts diagram and don't find that part on it, even though it's' shown in several schematics. I know where the wires for the valve terminate in the control module, but they disappear in a tightly packed mess of looms and oily hoses...

I have an aerial lift with a problem I'm trying to debug. One of the components in the electrical logic diagram is a "pump dump". It is some kind of electrically operated valve because it's shown on the electrical schematic with 2 wires going to it, a ground and 12v controlled by a set of...

Once I knew I was looking for a diode I found them on the control board in between and around the relays, but they're hard to see without a good flash.

I got an answer on Reddit. It's a symbol for a diode, which no one had ever seen before. But given the location is always around a relay, it must be there to prevent the the back emf when the coil is deenergized.

I've got a problem with my boom lift which is 90% hydraulic and 10% electrical, and right now it's the 10% electrical that's not working. A symbol that looks like a capital "Z" appears next to some of the wire traces on the logic diagram for the machine, does anyone know what it means? The...

I had a hose made up at the hydraulic shop, $85. The invoice has some crazy part number so I still don't know what kind of fittings they are. He did say they don't use that style fitting with orings any more, they just ended up leaking.

The only way they'll sell hoses is as a set that includes all the hoses on the machine. I didn't bother asking how many thousands of dollars that would be since many of the hoses are 40' long to reach the cage.

Yes there is one. The close one went out of business, I just have to drive a little further now.

I measured the largest diameter of the tip in the first photo, it's 11mm, the smallest diameter right in front of the oring is 6.5mm. The OD of the tube is 7.7mm. The ID of the threads is 11.5mm. The nuts take a 19mm wrench. It's harder than I thought to measure anything else because I can't get...

You're right, now I'm back to confused. It actually looks more like the SAE J514 Flareless compression, which is what @MAX-24-Dean said in the first response.

Interesting, I think of an oring in the context of a spool valve where the primary seal is metal to metal and the oring just catches the bit that leaks past. My system is relieved at 2900psi.

I found this fitting guide from discount hydraulic hose, very helpful. It shows what I have is JIC 37deg which is the same as SAE J514. I have a thread gauge so I'm able to confirm what I have. I found a thread where they talk about these fittings with the oring, I guess it fell out of favor for...

I was surprised to see an oring, didn't know orings were used to seal high pressure like that. Do I need the oring? I'd think a regular JIC would seal since the angle is right.

That looks right when I do a Google image search, but I don't see that as a choice on the hydraulic hoses online website. It looks like this JIC 37deg style fitting. Would that be the same thing? This is a British made machine, but I've bought hoses at the local hydraulic shop in the past and...

This hose has a pinhole leak, I looked online to have a replacement made but can't figure out what these fittings are called. Any help describing them would be appreciated.

Probably depends on how often the tank is used. I'm using this on a 50gal storage tank that only gets used every few weeks, so I'm hoping it will last a long time. Keeping the tank full also probably helps so it doesn't have to scrub the air that's in the tank as the temperature changes.

I'm thinking of installing this dessicant vent breather on my diesel tank. Does anyone have experience with using these or a good brand?

Thanks, I'll try putting my stethoscope near there next time to see if that's it.

Thanks, it doesn't seem like a bad noise. I was just curious what it is.

It's not rhythmic or ticking at all, I'm familiar with the sound of electric pumps. It sounds more like vacuum moving a door, or some kind of baffle. Does the DPF have anything in it that moves to redirect hot gases? I wouldn't expect it to be doing anything unless it's regenning, but just guessing.

My friend has a new DK6020. When he turns it off there is a noise that lasts a few seconds and sounds like the air blending door moving on a car's heating system. I used a stethoscope to try to figure out where it's coming from, I think it's the silver aluminum thing in the upper left part of...

Thanks Eric, The surfaces on the arbor and spindle were both like mirrors, there was no evidence of any damage. They did fit very tight and I've been using it for year without spinning the arbor. But I drilled a 3/4" hole and the bit grabbed when it was going through, that's what caused the...

It's a craftsman, I don't know what the arbor is.

Thanks Peter. I bought this used years ago and it turns out the problem is that the slot in the spindle was damaged at some point by the tang on the arbor. I'm guessing the last guy put the wrong arbor in, or didn't have it all the way in, did the damage, and then got another arbor and chuck to...

Nevermind, I found a youtube video that shows exactly how to do it: I love the internet.

The arbor on my drill press fell out, when I went to put it back in I realized the slot in the spindle that is supposed to hold the tang on the arbor was rounded out, so the arbor just spins even when it's all the way inserted into the spindle. Here's a picture of the parts from the manual: The...

Thanks, that helps to see a picture of what you did.

The hoses on my brush cutter would like to connect to the machine at a 90 degree angle to the way the 1/2" flat face connectors are currently mounted: Do they make an elbow that has a flat face quick connect on each side that I could connect to the machine and then to the brush cutter hose? I...

I wouldn't run air through a hydraulic system, even if you have driers and a filter you still have condensation issues. I got an open quick attach fitting for the end of one of the implement hoses, then I hook the other hose to my tractor and turn on the flow briefly and catch what comes out in...

Yeah, I've driven bobcats, I knew they were "normal". The funny thing is there is a Manitou version of this model and a Gehl version, and they're supposed to be identical other than the paint color according to the manual. However the Gehl has the Gehl style joystick and the Manitou has the...

Yes, it can't be changed. I thought the same thing since it's not mechanical.

I'm looking at a GEHL compact telehandler. The joystick movement left/right doesn't operate the bucket curl, it operates the telescopic boom. The bucket curl is controlled by a thumb control on the joystick. Is this common in the construction industry? Every tractor in the world has the bucket...

I changed the rear axle seal on my B2710 and made this video for anyone following in my footsteps.

I know the Grand L comes with a cab and backhoe, not sure about MX. I don't want a cab, but some of the used models I looked at had cabs so I wanted to compare prices to new. I'm real happy with the dealer I bought mine from, I'll definitely get a price from them. There's quite a few dealers...

Yes that's the horse discount I was thinking of, my wife's a member of that organization. It seemed like an unusual organization to associate with such a large discount, I would have expected it to be the Farm Bureau or one of the organizations directed more to general farming. I remember when...

I'll have to see if I can find that kind of discount. We do farm and that's supposed to get us out of paying sales tax, but the tax people have gotten notoriously stingy in how they interpret the statute regarding what constitutes farming.

The other issue with buying used is it's pretty slim chances I'll get it configured just the way I want it, so I end up buying an accessory I don't want, or the wrong tires, or needing to put on rear remotes myself, etc. Given the modest discount for buying used I think I'm better off buying new...

I've been looking at used for either an MX or L in the 50-60 horsepower range. I see a few that are interesting but can't figure out what the comparable new price is. Kubota website shows a new MX or L with backhoe, cab and extra remotes for $50-90K. I'm in the far Chicago metro area, any idea...

Do you buy fuel at the same place every time? Is it bio fuel? Glad you figured it out. I'd send some of that fuel to one of the online labs to find out what's in it that causes the problem.

Blackstone's site has this article on insolubles.

The youtube guy Project Farm often tests new oil to compare it to worn oil. Here's one example where he's comparing Walmart oils.

Usually there is a narrative with the Blackstone result that gives an explanation for things that are out of range. When your insolubles were way high last year, did Blackstone give any explanation of what might cause that?

I had the same problem, bought this miniature ball valve at the local hydraulic shop. It was $5 five years ago, afraid to guess what it costs now.

Thanks for the suggestions, I dug through my old data comm and coax stuff and the circular cutter below turned out to be the magic bullet. The vernier adjustment under my thumb allows the cut depth to be precisely set so it cuts the teflon with no damage to wires. I put a piece of scrap...

Mine did the same thing a couple times. Discovered the electricians bonded neutral and ground in the subpanel that the charger was plugged into. After I separated them I never had a problem again.

I'm not lacking for wire strippers, and none of these work. But I did find the mini stripper I used in the good old days for phone wire works pretty well if I use the blade that makes a slice along the length of the wire. If this were heavier gauge wire it would be no problem, but the...

I had to repair the electric brakes on one of my trailers, and it used wire I've never seen before. From the outside it looks like plain old 2 conductor lamp cord. But each conductor has two insulators, the normal outer one and a white inner one that's surprisingly hard. I've attached two...

What kind of tires do you have? I can imagine an aggressive ag tread feeling different going backward.

Send the fluid to Blackstone for analysis. That will tell you how much life it had left and give you a baseline for future test results. I sample the transmission fluid on our car before I change it, that's a lot cheaper than changing it before it needs it.

Thanks for the report, nice to know what happened.

That's a good point. The hose I have is only spec'd up to 170F now that I look it up. In this case I think there's no way the system could reach over some small pressure because of the design of that black plastic pressure/flow switch. It doesn't have barbed ends, it's just smooth plastic. Even...

I found a solution using some braided PVC tubing that has 3/4" ID but is more flexible than hydraulic suction hose so it will fit over the 7/8" plastic switch. I joined it with a 3/4" x 3/4" barb coupling: Here's the whole thing put together: The best news is I found the source of the...

About 10" on each side of the switch.

The suction side of my system includes a plastic pressure switch that has a 7/8" non barbed connection diameter, but the other side of the hose has to attach to a 3/4" metal barbed fitting. So I either need a hose barb adapter with 7/8" on one end and 3/4" on the other, or a specially made stub...

I wouldn't remove the valve assembly or hoses if you don't have to. It looks like on that valve orientation the spool will come straight out the top once you remove the actuator lever. I think you've got the right approach, don't touch anything you don't absolutely have to.

Before you spend any money, I would clean things up like LD1 said and pull that canister and confirm the oil is leaking around the spool. If you really have to replace the spool, you have to replace that valve and spool together, that's big bucks. I've attached some photos of valves I've had...

That silver canister covers the spool when it extends from the bottom of the valve. If you don't know what's inside a typical hydraulic directional control valve, this youtube video shows a basic valve. In that video the left end of the valve is the silver canister on your valve, and the spool...

I used to lift one 5 gal bucket under each arm but then I bought this:

Check the vents for bugs making nests or mud plugging it up. There's probably a vent on each axle and maybe also on the transmission. That will cause a lot of pressure to build up when the air gets heated in a confined space.

Another vote for tireject. My front ztr tires leaked constantly, haven't leaked for months since I used the stuff.

Your earlier narrative indicates the new coil was replaced but did not work until he removed the engine again and reassembled it more carefully. That would indicate the problem may not have been the coil, it may have been whatever he did more carefully after the fourth and final assembly...

Was the old coil tested?

For reference, when I mow in tall grass I have to clean off the hood screens and radiator screen about every 30 minutes, they get packed full that quick with grass and ragweed seeds.

My guess is you have rust and crud in the bottom cup of the valve, I had the same problem. The crud prevents the spool from travelling all the way forward, which explains why you don't have a float as well. It's easy to take the cup off assuming you can get at it. Some tractors you have to...

I used a light touch with a fine flat file followed by 1200 grit on a ding on my dump cylinder rod. I got a tiny bit of hot weld spatter on the rod. I had them both covered with welding blankets but of course there was one tiny spot that wasn't covered and Murphy's Law kicked in. I could barely...

Check where the vents are on your axles and transmission to be sure you're not sending a spray of water in the vent when you wash it.

You could do something similar to what I did to drain the hydraulic system on my boom lift. Remove the hydraulic filter, pick a tube size that just fits over the threaded part of the filter housing and attach it with a hose clamp. Put the end of that hose in a 5gal pail of new hydraulic fluid...

The analysis normally comes with a narrative that describes possible causes for the observed results. Did you get that with your analysis? If it were engine oil I would say it's likely it got way too hot, but hydraulic fluid shouldn't get anywhere near that hot unless something is really wrong...

Yes, now that I stare at it I agree with you. i had to go back and read the original problem description, the only cylinder that drifts down is the lower cylinder, so it sounds like you've identified the problem.

Thanks for explaining how those two valves work together. I think these photos are pretty close to the lift that the OP has. The top cylinder is always being forced to retract by gravity loading, the bottom cylinder is always being forced to extend by gravity loading. So aren't both cylinders...

I would only expect one valve per cylinder because gravity is the only force involved that can over run the pump. Is it possible things are plumbed so that one of those valves serves the lower cylinder and the other valve serves the upper cylinder? You said there were only 2 hoses connected to...

The photos you took show the pilot operated check valve, you're looking at the end of it. It's not user adjustable, that's to set the operation of the pilot valve so it opens at the right pressure. Can you clarify which problems you're wanting/needing to solve? Is the main problem that the lift...

No, manipulating the valves will relieve the high pressure on the hose before you remove it so the fitting doesn't fly off and spray you with oil. Removing the hoses will completely separate what's going on, if the cylinders leak down you know the check valve is not working properly. Yes, there...

If you extend each of the cylinders slightly, turn off the pump and manipulate the valves to relieve the pressure in the hoses. Now disconnect the hoses in the basket for both cylinders and see if either one leaks down. If they do, the load holding valve is bad and should be replaced. That's the...

I took my QD to the local hydraulic shop and bought caps from them.

I needed 6v batteries and found a local place that services industrial accounts. They had a 6v replacement for good price and they delivered them for free. Probably harder to find a place like that if you live in rural area.

One of my college jobs was repairing truck tires, it ain't fun. If you live near a shop that can do it for you I'd take it in. We have an industrial tire place down the street, I buy the tires from them and the mounting isn't that expensive if you buy the tire there. If you do it yourself it's...

Got some info on a different forum, it's a multi-lugged, fused, pull-out disconnect probably from the 50s or 60s. I'm going to replace it with an outdoor main panel that has through lugs and 8 spaces, so I can use breakers to protect each aerial line separately rather than ganging them all...

I own the pole. I like the diagonal 4x4, tnx

Didn't think about wedge washers, that solves the round pole problem. This needs to be kind of wide, I've got a trough, a service panel, a 200A disconnect and the connecting conduit going up to aerial cables and down to the meter. I can't stack them because something will end up too high for...

I need to mount a couple electrical disconnects and panel on a round wooden utility pole, approximately 12" diameter. I'm thinking of bending some threaded rod into a Ubolt and attach horizontal unistrut to the pole, then mount plywood on the unistrut for the panels. Any other ideas welcome.

It's on the line side. The meter enclosure has dual lugs, so the disconnect on the right that serves the house is connected to one lug, the disconnect I'm asking about is connected to the other lug. I've seen pullout fuses but never a box that big with two pullouts and sockets for the old...

400A service coming into central location on a farm, aerial service branches out from there to 3 buildings and the house. Upper right is 200A breaker feeding house main panel, upper left is some kind of disconnect I've never seen before. Here's the inside of the upper left disconnect box...

So they used RTV and a gasket? Sounds like a bad idea because it can squeeze into the filter and block passages.

Most tractors run operate about 2500psi. If you can't find data online, look at the hoses. They generally have a label on them and are probably 3000psi. That would confirm you can get a 3000 psi cylinder. Depending what you're using the blade for you may see some pressure spikes. You may need to...

I've had a couple different WDH on horse trailers. Another benefit is that it really improves the ride in the trailer for the horses. My wife rode in the trailer while I tried it with and without WDH, she said it made a big difference because it constantly forces the trailer wheels down on the...

Well the verdict is in, the GoPro is pretty much useless for what I'm trying to do. The problem is that the trailers I'm trying to backup up block the wifi signal from the GoPro and I lose my connection. It works great if I backup something short like the manure spreader, but I don't need a...

Thanks, if I end up with any exposed foam I'll try that. I'm trying to use sheet metal, hardware cloth and some caulking. Hopefully I don't have to use any foam.

After snooping around up there and taking down some of the old nests, I've decided to take off the existing flashing so I can get to this properly. I'm going to make some aluminum flashing that will serve to block the blowing rain and block access for the birds. If they can get through sheet...

That's a thought, I could make a tube out of hardware cloth and shove it in the space, then spray the foam in the hardware cloth.

3M has a product like that, I went to their website and it said it wouldn't work on birds. Hard to believe it will stop rodents but not a bird, maybe it's got some kind of chemical in it that birds ignore.

I've got a spot where rain blows in along a lean to roof on my barn that I've tried closing with expanding foam, but the birds like that spot and/or the foam because they keep pecking it away. Is there any kind of foam that hardens enough that birds can't peck it? It's a prorib style roof and...

Thanks for that link, lots of good ideas.

GoPro has an app for apple and android. The camera is a wifi access point, the app on the phone connects to that wifi and is used to control/view the camera. GoPros don't have night vision, something that backup cameras generally have. But I don't need it at night so that shouldn't be a problem.

Tested the GoPro, I think it will work fine. Even on the wide angle setting it's not a super wide field of view but it will be good enough, and the price is right. My wife always uses it to record video to an SD card, never thought about using it with my phone. I ordered a magnetic swivel base...

That's a good thought. My wife uses a gopro on her horse, I'll have to see what the field of view is. They're pretty indestructible, that would be good.

I did find this one with it's own access point at etrailer.com while I was looking for a portable camera. A decent one without an access point is about $100 and the one from etrailer is $178. I like etrailer stuff, it's always good quality, might get that one.

Geez, why didn't I think of that. great idea

I need a backup camera to use in an area with no power or wifi. So I'm looking for a camera that comes with its own access point that I can connect to with my phone to use when I backup a trailer. It would be similar in concept to my inspection camera which has its own access point connected to...

If you're near a hydraulic place and have a trailer it might be worth taking the machine over there and see if they can give you any info. The shop I go to will give free estimates if you bring the machine over and they don't have to take anything apart. They'll also send a service truck for a...

Mine are Prince valves from Surplus Center and they leaked from the day i bought them. I'm told more expensive valves don't leak, but don't know which brands.

Half the hoses, it's only needed on the hose that's pressurized by the weight of the implement. Here's mine:

My valves leaked down so I added this ball valve right at the valve so I can easily turn it on and off, got it at the local hydraulics place for about $5. I open it when I need to use the valve, close it when I'm mowing or using an implement.

It would help to get more diagnostic info. Can you attach a voltmeter to the 12v input to the coil and keep it on your lap while you're driving. That would tell you the next time it starts to die whether you have a constant 12v to the coil. The problem with electronic issues is they are...

U du man. tnx

I've had an anchor pin for my chalk line for so many years I don't know where I got it. There's no name on it and I can't find anything like it, anyone happen to know where I can buy one? There are anchor pins online, but none have a safety cover for the pin that I can find.

The spool is probably the most precisely machined component on your tractor, so watch a bunch of YouTube before you take it out. A detent valve has the added challenge of a bunch of tiny steel balls and a spring that are going to fall on the floor when you pull the spool out. It also looks like...

I was curious, never heard of WEO. Went and looked at WEO design and installation instructions. The stop clip looks different on yours, but as the instructions below indicate if you pull the clip out and push the fitting in, it should then be released to come out. It's designed to rotate...

They were bought by Conecteq and renamed TerraQuip. I found 800-428-3772 for Terraquip and (316) 943-8889 for Coneqtec. TerraQuip seems like a shell company, you'll probably have to call Coneqtec to get anywhere. The company now targets the rental market, so you could also try calling a rental...

I had a few slow leakers and finally tried TireJect, worked on all tires so far. Easy to clean up and works with tire pressure sensors.

I remember when that happened, didn't connect what kind of facility it was at the time. I'm pretty sure that's the fire we could smell even though it's a good hour's drive from us. Around here the grease shelves cycle between full and empty, when I see some on the shelf I buy 6 tubes instead of...

Best if you post them here, give other folks a chance too. Someday if I finish the 10 high priority projects my wife has me working on at the same time I'll take a shot at 3D printing.

The thing that helps the most if I'm on my ztr is to drive as fast as possible so the dust is always behind me. ;)

It's common to not change those really stiff seals because they're so hard to work with and they generally aren't the one leaking. But if you are able to fabricate a jig, that improves the quality of the repair. I've been tempted so many times to try my hand at 3D printing, if I keep reading...

It sounds like your crankcase breather is the thing blowing out oil. If the tractor isn't old it could be that the engine oil is over full. If the engine is high hours it could be blowby. I'm not familiar with that tractor, there is a new holland forum here so you'd probably get much more help...

I have a 25gal tank, I put a board across the FEL arms and put the tank there so it's right in front of me. That allows me to have enough hose to spot spray on either side from the seat without adding any hose. I put a marine battery in the bucket to power the pump, it's a pain to attach it to...

I use the same blue masks that are everywhere since covid. I wear it to move hay bales and when I mow, it's adequate for me. I wear the kind of mask you're talking about when I work in the wood shop, but I find it less comfortable because it fits tighter, especially if you mow for hours.

You can either measure it yourself or take it to a hydraulic shop and they'll have aftermarket seals. There was just this thread on seal prices for a small power steering cylinder. Seal prices seem to be going through the roof.

I don't think there is any fluid pressure in the area where the bolts are. Each of the plates (commutator, etc) has a machined finish that seals the high pressure. Seal #3 in your diagram is the low pressure seal against fluid getting into the area where the bolts are. Seal #4 I think is only to...

If you look at this post I included the videos I made when I timed my engine, it's probably very similar. That nut is 23mm.

Labor will be the expensive part, if you do it yourself it will be cheap. You could weld a new bung right on top of the one that's there. You could drill and tap for next larger size thread. If you have to pay someone to do this you might be better off buying a new cylinder. Hard to tell what...

He said he bought a new cover, so all the things related to the broken rockshaft will be new. The only thing being considered for repair is the 2 broken bolt flanges.

Brazing works well for joining 2 different metals. Since you already know how to tig it would be easy to do, the standard filler is silicon bronze which will work on almost everything. Use DC and lower current so you just melt the filler. For cast iron you can use AC and aluminum bronze filler...

It's just like oxy acetylene brazing but you don't need flux because you have a shielding gas. It doesn't melt the base metal, just the filler, so it can be done with less heat transfer into the base metal. It uses different filler, it's much cleaner and easier than using oxy.

The pump has the words "In" and "Out" written on the casting. So as @ptsg says, switch the hoses and it should work.

Wow man, that is quite a break. If you have the small pieces of the casting that complete those bolt holes I think they could be welded back together since that casting probably hasn't absorbed any oil and it's got enough mass to be able to sink the heat from welding. Take it to someone who does...

Installation complete, here's the before with just the normal outlet. And by popular demand includes me in my horse costume that looks so realistic you'd hardly know it's me: And after the install, with the sensor and sensor controlled outlet: Total cost about $40, thanks again for the...

I bought this occupancy sensor for $30 at Menards and tested it in the garage wearing my horse costume. Seems to do the job so I'll wire it up in the next few days in the barn.

Thanks, didn't know what they were called. That looks like it is exactly what I want. Barn is dry but pretty dusty, worth a try though. We have to brush the lights off with a dust mop, we can do the sensor at the same time.

I can do a relay, was hoping for a simpler solution. 500W seemed surprisingly low power to me, but I guess they're intended for lights. The purpose of the fans is for flies and gnats. The barn is not really that hot, they stand in front of the fans to keep the flies off. Some horses are...

Our horses only stand in front of their barn fans part of the day, the rest of the time the fans just use power doing nothing. Is there any kind of motion detector I can use that would stay on as long as it detects motion, like the swishing of the horses tail or moving their head? They don't...

Be interesting to know the breakdown of labor and parts. I would guess a small cylinder like that is an hour labor, which is probably $100ish. Hard to imagine non OEM seals being more than $25. I've never had a little cylinder like that apart, I wonder if there's something that makes them harder...

If it's an application like on a front loader that's open to water, sunlight, grit, mud, manure, etc, it's hard to imagine anything short of an explosion when you mix the two greases doing any more harm than what happens during every day use. If it's a sealed application like an axle bearing or...

If Kubota published the explanations for why things are the way they are, the book would be bigger than the shop manual.

I hear you, i just rebuilt my loader cylinders and used Kubota seals because they were so close in price to aftermarket seals. And yet seals for this tiny steering cylinder seem really expensive. Someone should write a book on how parts are priced.

No, take it to any decent hydraulic shop and they'll be able to get the parts. You might want to let the shop do the rebuild, or at least take it to them after you do the rebuild and have them pressure test it. With all the labor involved getting it out, you don't want to put the thing back in...

i don't have a manual to look at for your model, but in some situations you can pull the rod end of the cylinder and leave the cap end in place. That can help avoid having to remove the whole cylinder and makes the job easier.

If you think the RIO is a pain when you're mowing, try when you're snow blowing. You've got big gloves on, hands are cold, probably dark out, can't find that little button and your gloves won't fit under that plastic thing you can pull, and if you do your hands are too numb to do anything...

I would check that the hydraulic motor for the turret is properly attached and tightened. My motor has a difficult to adjust and keep adjusted mounting system that uses 3 heavy bolts. When it gets loose it can move more in one direction than the other because of the way the mounting system...

You have to get the right hose to use with the fitting, so order them at the same time. They're also longer, so if you're in a tight space that could be a problem. Single is a little more flexible, but unless you really need that flexibility I'd use 2 wire. It lasts longer if it's outside in...

That would work good for me, I just use mine on our property behind the tractor.

I think it's to prevent nuisance power losses from things like bouncing up and down in seat. My wife is so small that she barely trips the seat safety switch and when she bounces up and down in the seat on our lawn tractor the engine is constantly losing power briefly as she bounces across the...

I've thought about the same thing, that first foot of lift puts huge stresses on the frame and cylinder mounts, and I can hear the pump labor. I think there would be enough vertical room on a deck over trailer to get a vertical or nearly vertical cylinder in there.

I turned the crankshaft nut, you need a 23mm socket for the crankshaft nut, I had to go out and buy that because I didn't have it, I think it's a bit unusual. I made some videos when I adjusted my valves, take whatever is useful. This video is the intro. This is taking things apart. This one...

I'd try to turn it over before you remove the plugs to see how hard it is. Mine was easy to turn over but my engine is smaller. It's easy to get in trouble when you take a glow plug out, they tend to get rusted in place, and the wiring can be fragile. If you break one off you're looking at a...

The numbering is consecutive 1,2,3,4 starting at radiator and going back to the flywheel. Or are you asking what the firing order is? You can watch the valves on the other cylinders and identify which one is firing to get the order. Or the service manual is only $29.

I went through the same thing in this thread. On my tractor it's closest to the radiator, the shop manual defines it as the cylinder closest to the gear case, but the gear case they're talking about is where the crank and camshaft gears are, which is the radiator end of the engine.

It would be interesting to send some of that fuel to a place like Blackstone Labs and see what they find wrong with the fuel.

I don't have the same tractor, but I didn't find the timing mark that useful. My inspection hole is on the clutch housing but it was obscured by some hydraulic line or something that made it hard to see. There's only one mark for cylinder #1 TDC, and they have a goofy chart in the shop manual on...

Before you replace anything try switching the hoses for the bucket curl with the lift hoses. If the curl leaks down and the lift doesn't, that's solid evidence the valve is bad. But if the curl doesn't leak down and the lift still does, there's something else going on.

Please post when you figure this out, it's a puzzler. I was thinking of other things that might be involved. Does it have an oil cooler? How is the crankcase vented? It's hard to imagine any way either of those could cause enough pressure to get that much water in the oil.

Did you happen to remove the radiator cap when the engine was hot? I would expect no or very little pressure in the cooling system with a thermosyphon system, which makes it hard for water to find its way into the oil. But if the head or head gasket failed in the right spot, it could pressurize...

On the SA cylinders I have there is a small sintered bronze filter that threads into those air holes. Is it possible that part is missing on yours?

I was going to suggest making a discussion/explanation of cylinder leak down a sticky thread, because this has come up a number of times just in the last few months. But I realized I've never seen a sticky thread on this forum. Is it possible to get the admins to make a sticky thread?

Switch lines with the bucket curl hoses. If it lifts properly it's not the seals. That would point to a problem with the valve, you could do a few more tests to be sure.

It needs to be rated above the relief pressure, not just the operating pressure. I would guess your tractor operates at 2100 and relieves about 2500. So I would look for something rated about 3000psi. The copper nickel brake lines I've seen are rated 3000psi, so that would be fine.

It looks like two of the 3 pieces of that coupler are missing, unless I don't understand what I'm looking at. There's supposed to be a rubber shock absorber and another steel jaw that mates with the jaw in the picture. The question is where did those pieces go and how could this pump ever have...

Is it possible there was a set screw in the side of the cylinder that either got the head broke off or is recessed and you haven't seen it? I've seen cylinders that have a set screw that goes into the gland nut, so you can't loosen the nut until you get that screw out.

Given your description, something changed suddenly. So something like a relief valve stuck open or a quick disconnect got dislodged, or some bypass valve got opened, or a detented valve is in detent position, or whatever. It looks like the lines are hard plumbed, I would pick the easiest line...

They make adapters to go from banjo to NPT. You could take everything off the cylinder and attach the hoses directly. You could also take that cylinder to a hydraulic shop, they might have a way to replace just the steel tube that has the leaking fitting.

If your existing remotes are stack valves it might be just as easy to add a third valve to the stack. I made one of my remotes a detent actuator so I can use it to run the pounder or log splitter from the ground. Before I added the remotes I used to connect to my FEL bucket curl quick...

You could T into the power beyond port on your existing remote valve body, assuming you have room to add a quick coupler or some way to easily attach the high pressure line from the pounder. I have the same pounder and agree with @Birdhunter1 the return to tank is the hard part. You need a...

I bought this inspection scope, helps a lot with diagnostics without always taking everything apart. It's waterproof and pretty thin so it fits in any filler or drain hole. It's nice because it's wireless so you can have one person poking it around inside while a helper looks at the phone or...

I'll bet he buys a rope ladder, and some new underwear.

Here's the rope ladder hanging off back of lift.

There's a sensor for that light somewhere on the air intake, should have 2 wires coming from it. They have a spring and can get stuck, or stop working if water gets on them a lot.

I've started doing the same thing. My neighbor had a relatively new JD bush hog he bought with his tractor, probably only 3 years old when he tore the PTO shaft all to pieces when he hit something. Asked me to help him look at it. Turns out the slip clutch plates were rusted/corroded together...

Well here ya go, a Gravely 60" electric ZTR that runs all day on a single charge, only $32,500 !!!!

Surprised they didn't start with a stand on mower rather than sit on. Could have saved a lot of weight. The review didn't say anything about seat comfort. My problem is my mowing is rough, even with a suspension seat it gets old. I'd switch to electric in a minute if it was comfortable. I've...

As a lower bound, if you took the piston off the end of the rod, the hydraulic lifting force would be the pressure times the cross sectional area of the rod end, assuming the pump had enough capacity to maintain pressure with that big a "leak". So if the piston diameter is 2 sq-in and the rod...

This video demonstrates why that's not true if the rod is retracting. You're correct if the rod is extending.

There's a couple good hydraulic fabrication shops near me, I either take the parts over there or take a picture and tell them what I'm trying to do. They usually have fittings I didn't even know existed that solve the problem. Not sure if you're close to any places that can help you.

I talked to the manufacturer's tech support line, they said the only safe way to get out of the situation I had was to use a ladder or another lift. There's no safe way to release the pressure on the check valve to allow the fluid to escape in a controlled way. The high pressure hose I broke was...

I pull a 60" swisher trail mower behind the 60" rear mower on my tractor, so I end up getting about a 9' cut on each pass. It also makes it easier to get under low hanging branches, but it's hard to get used to going around corners. When I bought it about 15 years ago it cost $1200, I just...

It's easy to end up with the detent ball bearings and springs on the garage floor if you haven't taken one apart before. If you do it, I'd suggest putting a magnetic tray under the spool when you remove it, and a clean white cloth on the floor so you can hopefully find the parts that don't end...