Another chainsaw question

anthonyk · May 7, 2005

After getting a lot of much appreciated advice on how to sharpen my chainsaw chains, I finally opted to have an "expert" do them. Costs about 4 bucks per chain, and they've got the right looking power tool. BUT.... after I picked them up and started using them, the saw seems to pull to the left in a curve.
In fact, it'll darn near cut a backwards "C" in the log.
Is this due to incorrect sharpening? All 3 chains do it.

thanks, Anthony

woodchuckie · May 7, 2005

Yes That's exactly what happens when I try doing it myself.

beenthere · May 7, 2005

Well, that is what happens when someone sharpens the chain with a grinder that isn't 'dead on' when setting the angles for the two directions of the teeth. I have found most operating a chain grinder don't really want to pay attention to how to do it right. That is, set it, and just touch each tooth the first time around, then take just a very small bit more. They want to hit it hard, once, flip it, and do it once on the other side. If the angle is off only a minute bit, the chain will cut crooked.

I had to re-do the last chain by hand, after taking it to a shop because I hit a stone and knocked a lot of edge off many teeth. But, the angle was real blunt and it wouldn't cut wood when I got the chain back. I looked under a magnifying 10x lens and could see it was poorly ground. Had to file it several times to get it back to cutting again.

Pretty disappointing, to say the least. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

PineRidge · May 7, 2005

Measure the length of a right hand cutter compared to a left hand one. My guess is they are ground at two different lengths. They should both be equal in length and if they aren't your chains will need to be resharpened.

Egon · May 8, 2005

Not all " Chain Sharpener's are Created Equal " /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Just as oneself they also go through a learning curve.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

anthonyk · May 8, 2005

groan! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Highbeam · May 9, 2005

He either forgot to sharpen the teeth on one side, or he sharpened them differently. Somehow half of your teeth are getting more work done.

I use a good ol' saw shop and he has pride in his work. No lawnmowers, generators, or weed eaters. The place works in chainsaws and would be humiliated to send out a chain that cut crooked.

JimMorrissey · May 9, 2005

The problem with experts is that they use HD grinders and take a bunch of meat off the chain quickly. You can do a better job yourself, it just takes a bit of time and a tiny bit of skill. Too bad they ruined your new chains /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Not unusual from what I've found.....

beenthere · May 9, 2005

Just be sure to take the chain back to the 'grinder' man, and have him make it right. Can't cut wood with a bad chain.

I'd like to hear what he says.

kenmac · May 9, 2005

Thats why I bought a grinder & sharpen my own chains.I think I paid approx. 200.00 for my grinder . I think harbor frieght has one for about 50.00.

B21nut · May 16, 2005

Your problem is not uneven grinding of the teeth. It is the bar. If one side of the groove the teeth ride in is higher than the other it will have this effect. Take your chain off and "sight" down the bar at the groove for evenness. File at a ninety degree angle to the bar flat surface.
John

guyrj33 · May 16, 2005

I don't think it's the bar. Most likely the chains wern't sharpened properly. If the bar were the problem the saw would have cut in a curve before having the chains sharpened.
Flipping the bar over will show if it's the bar or the chain.

anthonyk · May 16, 2005

good advice. I called the sharpening guy and he say's he'll make it right. One last question, since I can't find the owners manual anymore. Any idea what the little blue button on the right side of the saw is for? I've got a husqvarna 359 model.
I've pushed it (eyes closed, breath held) and it made a buzzing scraping sound. Didn't do that again!

anthony

Varmintmist · May 16, 2005

Compression release, push it before you start it, makes life eaiser.
Blue button in, choke on, pull till it putts, take choke off, pull again and it will start. Hit the throttle and the compression release will release.

There are 1 of three things going on with your chain,

Most likely, teeth are ground shorter on one side
Next likely, depth gauges (rakers) are filed shorter on one side
Least likely, your bar is worn enough or bent. You bar has to be REALLY worn on one side to get the same thing you are talking about. Fililg the bar flat is really a good idea though.

Once you get it sharp, it will cut.

anthonyk · May 16, 2005

thanks VERY much. That little bugger was really stumpin' me.
/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
anthony

KennedyDiesel · May 16, 2005

Nice saw! Same one that I have. I think a file is still about the best way to sharpen a chain. A good chain will have a reference slash across the top of tooth to guide you with the angle. A couple of strokes per tooth with the chain TIGHT so it does not move and you should be OK. Even a novice like myself can do it. If you get things too screwed up, it won't hurt to have an expert do a touch up to get things back in shape though...

newcountry · May 16, 2005

How often do chains need to be sharpened? I don't think I've got too many hours on my saw yet but it's not going through the logs like it did when I first got it.

And BTW, I've tried to start the saw w/o pushing the compression button-- not fun!!

beenthere · May 16, 2005

I touch up my chains with a stroke or two from the file before every fill of gas mix.
Avoid touching dirt (be it on the ground or in the bark of the log) at all costs. It quickly takes the edge off the tooth. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

jeffinsgf · May 16, 2005

I have recently started the same habit as "beenthere". If I hit each tooth with three strokes of the file every time I fill it up, the saw always cuts the same way --- and that is, very well.

I use a German filing tool that holds two files. One file is the normal round file for the tooth. The second is a flat file that takes down the chip limiter a bit to compensate for the filing of the tooth. The device also has a guide that rests on top of the next tooth in the chain to help keep you aligned. Filing angle is the only thing left to chance, and there is a starting guide for that. I was never very good at hand filing until I found this gadget. Wouldn't be without it now.

EDIT: I went looking for something and found this file holder after having a similar experience to the first poster. I paid to have three chains ground and none of them would cut when I got them back. Decided to take control there and then.

Egon · May 17, 2005

Touching up a chain often will really extend its life. The dull chains get hot and lose temper.

If I'm ripping with the chain saw there are frequents stops to let things cool down.

Egon