Container Weld Shop build -

[Oldpath05]

You’re more than welcome to borrow mine but same problem. Wrong coast. View attachment 557737

Yep you have the one I need or did need, darn wrong coast but it's the thought that counts.

A Harbor Freight near you?

Titanium Coated High Speed Steel Step Bit Set 2 Pc

Wellllllllllllllllllllllll, depends what you call near, I'd say 10 miles is near but Rockland at 30 miles, not really near more like near-ish, I did think of going in but I know it would've spoiled 3 hours so I thought that I could drill 1/2 hole and with a die grinder bring up to 7/8 and that's what I did this afternoon, after sawing some lumbah.

One thing I did learn in this 55 gal steel barrel hole making job, dont measure from the bottom outside lip for the hole. The in side bottom is up higher than I thought, after I got the hole up to 7/8 I had no room for the inside flange nut. Rather then try the re-weld patch do over routine on thin metal I got a long round heavy rod and banged the bottom down just enough so the nut would go on.

Other issue was the spicket tightens down to 1/16", the barrel is a little thinner so had to add washer on inside and with plenty of black gooey gasket stuff I was ready to put the spicket on, but then another problem, does anyone know how hard it is to put a nut on the inside of barrel and hold the outside spicket at the same time, after ten minutes I couldn't figure it out and then my son stop in for a second, what good timing that was. The only thing I can figure out is one must need a special 4' long wrench to hold the spicket so one can crawl inside with the flange nut, I think I seen something like this done on the Three Stooges show. Now I'll wait for rain to see if the spicket leaks, what a ordeal just for a rain barrel.

 

[Oldpath05]

I looked it up - there's a couple within 20 miles, at Waterville and Rockford... Steve

More like 25 and that's if your a crow, of course they have to put these stores in the middle of town with all the stop lights and stop signs just to make it much more of a headache, hoorah for ebay, on the east coast.

 

[dragoneggs]

More like 25 and that's if your a crow, of course they have to put these stores in the middle of town with all the stop lights and stop signs just to make it much more of a headache, hoorah for ebay, on the east coast.

But, but, but, think of all the other cheap stuff you will come home with!

 

[BukitCase]

Man, this coulda turned into a full-on North-American joint operation - Big Barn (canada, just barely) had the step drill you wanted, DragonEggs (Washington, the western one) cheered you on (pom-poms, short skirt, nice legs ) Me (If I'd collected all the precip that fell on MY roof today I coulda FILLED your barrel), and the "Maine-iac", (now gearing up for a rain dance so you'll know if your barrel leaks) - all we're missin' is Bubba (Watch this; here, hold my beer)

OK, goin' to my room now, sulking ... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

"(now gearing up for a rain dance so you'll know if your barrel leaks)" <<<<<<<<I have great news, so far my rain barrel is not leaking, but it hasn't rain yet either, humm is that thinking positive....... I'm already planning on adding a second barrel hooked into that one, I took this picture showing where the barrel setup is, not far from wife's small garden.


Now on to this big auto power in reel lock no lock controversy, as stated earlier in the statement of facts post section, there is no need for a locking reel but that could be an east coast thing where gravity is our friend and the magnetic poles have not yet shifted like on the west coast. To further prove this shocking revelation I did several test this past weekend and all test came out and in the 99.999% range, well above satisfactory in my book of satisfactory results, in other words the cords wound all the way back in, or darn close to it.

And now without furter adew, I made a short video of my auto swivel reels with some of my house and garage scenery, it sure is hard trying to walk and video at the same time, as you can or might see, I dont have much of a view, trees everwhere have to go 1/2 mi up the road for a view, it's a little shaky but watchable, if it uploaded.
Auto Power and Air reel demo - YouTube

 

[BukitCase]

Lookin' good, now ya need a feed from the BIGGER half of the roof :thumbsup:

Your power cord DEFINITELY works better than mine, I think they tried to cram too long a cord in mine - the HF air reels would probly go in like that, they don't seem to be all that snug - I'm just afraid that if I let 'em snap in fast, they'll come apart quicker (they ARE HF, BTW )

Looks like it might be dry enough manana to murder weeds again, then back to projects - need to wrap up a couple so I can continue to NOT build a weld shop (quite yet, anyway... Steve

 

[GLyford]

I think if I make another rain barrel, it will be an IBC tote, just on princicple.

The last one I made I used a close top barrel. Put it on a 2x4 stand (cross braced) and threaded a pvc adapter into the top bung, to a 2" elbow, to a 4" adapter. Drop a sink strainer screen into the adapter (keeps out the skeeters) and run the shed roof downspout into the adapter. On the bottom I use a regular plastic drum spigot, but they don't last very long before the plastic starts dying.

I have a couple of other screw top barrels I bought already set up with spigot, inlet screen, and overflow. They are sitting up on stacked 4x8x16 concrete blocks, but they can get annoying because they still aren't up enough to get a bucket under the spigot completely upright.

 

[Oldpath05]

"Lookin' good, now ya need a feed from the BIGGER half of the roof"<<<<<<<<Yes I was going to do that by now but the 100.00$$$$ for the extended gutter work keeps getting used for something else. As is now the 16x38 roof gets a fair amount of water from a light rain, more than I thought I get, fill that barrel up in no time.

 

[Oldpath05]

I think if I make another rain barrel, it will be an IBC tote, just on princicple.

The last one I made I used a close top barrel. Put it on a 2x4 stand (cross braced) and threaded a pvc adapter into the top bung, to a 2" elbow, to a 4" adapter. Drop a sink strainer screen into the adapter (keeps out the skeeters) and run the shed roof downspout into the adapter. On the bottom I use a regular plastic drum spigot, but they don't last very long before the plastic starts dying.

I have a couple of other screw top barrels I bought already set up with spigot, inlet screen, and overflow. They are sitting up on stacked 4x8x16 concrete blocks, but they can get annoying because they still aren't up enough to get a bucket under the spigot completely upright.

I'm not sure what principle, but the barrel was given to me, water is coming off my roof beat the band, wife keeps using well water to water the garden. I'm thinking well water is costing more than roof water for garden water so that's the princable I was going on. I made a 32"x60" wooden platform so theres enough room for one more FREE barrel.

The one I have now has a screen over the top to keep out acid rain from the west coast and when it gets full I just screw on the garden hose and drain the clean water on the dirty ground and eat the wifes cucumbers on a cucumber sandwich, no 5 gal bucket required.

 

[GLyford]

The principle of using an IBC is that it doesn't actually take a lot of rain to fill a barrel or two, so a bigger container stands a better chance of collecting most of what falls.

But free is definitely good. You can buy a lot of hoses and connectors to chain free barrels together for what most of the guys are asking for a tote.

Having the barrel above the garden is key. In this case, since your downspout is uphill from the garden, it sounds like the barrel is acting mostly as a delay, holding some of the water back during a wet spell for use later when it is getting dry, then simply letting it go again in the same spot without much fussing or carrying...sounds just about perfect.

Our garden is on the high ground, so it is always easier to just turn the valve on the end of the hose and let the well pump do the work than it is to tote buckets and watering cans uphill (not a big slope, just too much to for water to run). If our storage was above the garden we would probably do something like run a drip line or soaker hose.

 

[Oldpath05]

While we're waiting for my rain barrel to fill up, is there any updates (pictures) on anything, or do we have time to rebuild another ramm cylinder and or are there any other projects in the pipeline?

 

[BukitCase]

Not a lot happening lately, been too much "life" gettin' in the way

I need to get those two new "high cube" containers moved into place (so I can stop moving so much stuff at least TWICE) and haven't been able to reach my "container guy" yet -

I do have two 3'x8'x 1/4" wall rectangular tubes coming manana (Monday) - they will be placed under each end of the pair of containers (see my floor plan sketch earlier) - the rectangular tubing will give the same "flotation" support as an 8" "H" beam, but at HALF THE WEIGHT they'll cost half as much - good thing, previously (before Tariff crap) I wuz paying around $.72-$.75 a pound for most shapes; these came in at $.92 a pound, which puts 'em at $318 for each 20' long stick. - STILL better than futzin' around with concrete and forms...

If I can't get my "container guy" or one of his friends, my "plan B" is to take an old (given to me) tandem axle trailer, cut off all but the subframe the springs fasten to, add a couple crossbars ABOVE that, and chain it to each container near the middle (AFTER picking one end up with the loader) and jockey them (almost) into place that way, then jack each one up and block them, finally letting 'em off the blocks and onto the rectangular tubes - when that part finally happens, I'll be sure to catch up on the picture shortage ...Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

"Not a lot happening lately, been too much "life" gettin' in the way" Most likely that happens more the older we get so might as well go down memory lane and watch an old chainsaw that you used to use back in the day get rebuilt in 35 min. I thought it was neat.
Seized 196s Chainsaw Restoration - YouTube

 

[BukitCase]

Watched the vid, pretty cool (other than using "fitzalls" instead of REAL wrenches ) - the older I get, the closer to being that fast I USED to be

As Mark Twain reportedly said, "the rumors of my death have been greatly exagerated" - been fighting my Jet bandsaw off and on since it locked up during a cut on 3x8 tubing - Got this far on the 5th piece - originally thought it was a problem in the worm gear box, til I drained the lube - -

Next I discovered that all 5 bearings on the blade guide that's downstream of the cut were bad (felt noticeably rough when turned) - - discovered I already had some "donors", surplus center find a couple years ago - - Got lucky when I drove the pin out on the BACK bearing; no mention of the knurling in the manual - - Ready to go back in (all 5 bearings in the pre-cut end were still fine) - - Made 3 more cuts on a brand new Starrett blade, saw locked up AGAIN - I'm omitting the copious quantities of swear words and tests/experiments, fast forward to conditions at present (enlarge pics for more details) -


At one point in all this, I was convinced that I'd over-tensioned the blade and it had been that way for about a year, and that the cast iron bow was WARPED - I haven't come up with a reason for the conditions in the last couple pics other than that.

At this point, I'm waiting for delivery of a Lenox blade, then I'll try that and the last NEW Starrett; tests on those will be at LOWEST tension they'll track, and if things are still "out of line" I'll have to decide between just buying a new BOW ($400, special order, 1 MONTH) or a whole new SAW ($1400 or more, shipped TOMORROW) - tough call, since at this time I'm nowhere NEAR 100% sure the bow will fix things.

That's the main reason I'm waiting on a "second opinion", AKA two different mfg.'s blades; if a different blade fixes this, it won't be the FIRST time I've been "led around the mulberry bush" by crappy blades (on OTHER saws) - I should know THAT part in a few days.

Enjoy the pics; I would too, if I knew what they meant Need to get this resolved and get the 2 hi-cube containers relocated before winter ...Steve

 

[Big Barn]

Steve, I recently picked up a dual miter head Ellis saw (in need of lovin') for what I would have paid for in taxes and shipping on a brand new one. It ALSO had the "high clearance blade option" like the photo you posted:


I've had good luck with the import blades from Princess Auto on my other bandsaw but they didn't have the right length for the Ellis so I also ordered a Lennox online.

 

[BukitCase]

Terry, good score on the Ellis saw; hopefully it won't take more "love" than you can give to nurse it back to health - I would've LOVED having an Ellis, but wasn't willing to give TWICE as much as I paid for the Jet - I've gotten REALLY "gun-shy" about used gear around here, seems like the majority of tooling's been "rode hard and not put away AT ALL", then they'll put an ad on Craigslist AFTER they've priced something brand new, and think they're GIVING it away for 80% of RETAIL

Had some good/bad news of my own yesterday evening;

The bad: I was wrong about having another of the 6-10 tooth Starretts, I had THREE of the 10-14 tooth instead...
The good: I decided to try one of the finer pitch Starretts NOW rather than wait for the Lenox to show up - put it on the saw, followed Jet's kinda sketchy instructions for setting tension - blade now rides NEARLY centered on both back bearings. Finished half-dozen cuts on 2.5x2.5x.25 wall tubing with no hiccups - (Note to self: ALWAYS try a new blade FIRST...)

I have 4 more cuts to do on the 3x8x.25" wall tube, I have the saw aligned well enough to stand that tubing on EDGE for the cuts (maybe, hafta check clearance for an 8" TALL cut) - if I can get away with that, cuts should go faster by NOT having to cut 8" wide on the flat sides...

Forgot to mention - all these cuts (and some torch cuts on 3/4" plate) are for leveling/support "pads" for the two hi-cube containers that will be part of my new "last ditch effort" at a separate weld/machining/maintenance shop (spent a half hour tryin' to find the post with the floor plan, screw it; here's a re-post) -

No pics yet, each pad (6 total for the 8 container corners) will be a 16" x 27" base (3/4" plate) with "pyramids" centered on it, made of various sizes of square/rectangle tubing - these have been calculated to make the CONTAINERS level, even though the site is NOT (quite) -

If I'd already modded one of my tractors for hydraulic SIDE link I probably woulda worked harder to get the actual site scraped level, but it's too much of a PITA to accomplish that with a manual crank for side link. As it is, both ends of where the 2 containers go have a 5" drop side to side, plus the non-door end is 3" LOWER than the door end (hence the 3" tall rectangle tubes - then there's a 2-1/2" difference side to side at the mid-point (where 2 containers touch) and a 5" drop at the side where the REST of the building will be....

Those numbers are the reason for using 2-1/2" tubing (1 or 2 layers, depending) and 3" tubing (2 layers at the low end, ONE layer at the high ends) - pieces will all get welded together and CAPPED (I HATE "Squitters" - that's a made-up word for the combo of squatters and critters :laughing: )

Then the containers will be moved with a rollback CLOSE to their final resting place, and jockeyed/lifted to final position by me and a few hydraulic "friends", their "pyramids" set under and containers lowered into place. (kinda makes me tired just TYPING that )

Forgot to mention - those "pyramids" will replace (see floor plan) those 6x8 tubes (white bars in plan), supporting only the CORNERS of containers; center supports will be TWICE as wide to support corners where the two containers meet -

And yes, there WILL be pics; but first I gotta actually DO it... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

("At one point in all this, I was convinced that I'd over-tensioned the blade and it had been that way for about a year, and that the cast iron bow was WARPED - I haven't come up with a reason for the conditions in the last couple pics other than that. ")

Sounds like you having some of my luck come your way, your welcome. I dont think cast iron warps, it would think it'll break first. I thought the Jet brand was in the upper class of tools, this sounded like a HF problem, maybe the tool grades has reversed meaning HF is the best of the best, thanks for the update.
Gloom Despair And Agony On Me (marriage , money) - YouTube

 

[BukitCase]

Nope, the TOOL is fine; it's the "tool" that's messin' with it - at the moment, the saw is cutting dead on 90* in every direction with ZERO blade wander - I can hold a machinist's square up against all cuts, and they're exactly square no matter which side you put the square on. Can't ask for better'n that...

Near as I can tell now, I was 'WAY OVER on tension - I set it up with the new blade (after replacing the bad guide bearings) and just tightened it a bit over one turn past where the long side of the blade straightened out. Then I cut 5 more pieces of the 2-1/2 square 1/4" wall tube, watching the blade,guides, etc, for any sign of a problem (guards off, hands in pockets )

Manana I'll cut the last 3 pieces of 3x8 tubing, (I checked, and the max vertical on that saw is just a hair over 7" so those cuts will get done flat) then I'll put all the "sissy stuff" back on and move on to torch cuts on the 3/4 plate - clean up the slag on those, then lay out my "pyramids" and weld those, then cut some 1/4 FB and close off all the "critter condo's" - then I'll hose it all with primer, let dry, paint 'em, and nag my "container guy" to get off his tush and get the hi-cubes moved.

The "pyramids" will weigh around 190 pounds EACH, so I'll clamp one of the heavy weld clamps on 'em for a "picking eye", no sense makin' an eye for each one when it'll only get used ONCE - besides, they'd just be in the way...

Shouldn't be any problem tweaking the containers into final position; the hoe loader is noticeably stronger with the redone curl cylinder, and it could pick one end of a 40' container BEFORE - difference is, now it STAYS up :thumbsup: - between that and my modded 20 ton air jacks, couple of farm jacks, various bars, hammers, chains, etc, and they'll be where I want 'em when I'm done...

'Bout supper time, then there's new episodes of NCIS on the tube; later... Steve

 

[Big Barn]

Oldpath: thanks for the vid. Which good lookin’ fella is you??

 

[dragoneggs]

Oldpath: thanks for the vid. Which good lookin’ fella is you??

I'm thinkin' second from the left.