Finally starting an addition on our shed

   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#61  
But now your windows will be narrower.
If I added the jack studs on the already built walls, the rough in would be too small for the windows. I think I'll cut some angle iron braces and screw them into the top corners. They'll be small enough to not cause problems with the window installation and transfer the load from the header into the studs.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #62  
I'm torn on what I would do if I was you. When remodeling older homes, I see this fairly often. I always replace what's there with a header using jack and king studs. But that's what I'm being paid to do. It's very rare to see actual issues from it not being done this way, but I have a few times. Usually nobody has a clue that their headers are not supported by jack studs. Since it's yours, and you are doing all the work, it's your call.

Adding a stud to the outside of your existing studs would help. Removing the header, cutting the existing stud and making it a jack stud, then installing a longer header would be ideal.

We all learn by our mistakes. My list of mistakes over the years is very long!!!!
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #63  
Which way does the roof framing run? If the headers with no jack studs are under a gable end, I would be somewhat tempted to let it go as the weight supported is not that much. But if rafters bear on that header and wall, I would fix it like Eddie suggests. In fact I have fixed old work that way before whether there is much of a load or not, it is the correct way to deal with the situation.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#64  
All but one are on gable ends, the rafters are going on the wall next to the shed and opposite it.

The window in the stairwell will be supporting the rafters. I'm working on that wall this morning so I can do it right. The roof is going to be techshield covered in 27ga tin so, it"s not a heavy roof. I think.a couple of 2" x 3/16 angle iron brackets screwed in up top will probably be enough. I'll probably add secondary studs outside the window frames as well.

I know it's probably penny wise and pound foolish but, replacing all the headers would waste 60' of lumber. I hate to throw that away and more importantly, don't think I have enough extra on hand to do it. If I do have it already when it's all framed up, I'll probably make the corrections.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #65  
In a perfect world window openings might allow enough room to nail and glue a 1x4 to inside of the stud. Everything would have to be perfectly square and rough opening large enough for this.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#66  
Got them on this one. :)
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   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#67  
In a perfect world window openings might allow enough room to nail and glue a 1x4 to inside of the stud. Everything would have to be perfectly square and rough opening large enough for this.
I can probably do this as inside jamb trim instead of drywall.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #68  
Looks good. The header carries the weight of the span onto the jack studs. Everything rests on something else.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#69  
Finished exterior walls. The humidity is killing me, especially with very little breeze and full sun.

The death door to below will eventually go to a deck. We put it in now so we can use the tractor to raise furniture to the second floor instead of trying to traverse it up the turn in the stairs.
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   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #70  
STX

Looks good and you are making great progress especially since you are working by yourself.

On you headers (I won't say anything about putting jack studs), I see you are putting a 2 x 6 above and below them, that is not required. You are not hurting anything by doing it, but it is an additional step.
 

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