Household Well Water Pump Troubles

Xfaxman · Jan 14, 2017

Maknwine said:
---------------------------------

I'm also, wondering about the CSV changeover (PK1A PSIDE-KICK Kit – Cycle Stop Valves, Inc). Been reading and it sounds logical but changing out a lot of plumbing right now is not on the schedule. Already have some electrical, automotive, framing, roofing etc work around the house that is taking precedent. I would like to try the CSV on the outside well pump....also a jet pump but that one has a galvanized tank. It short cycles a bit too.

-------------------------
Tks

I can recommend the CSV, it works well on the well.

speedbump · Jan 14, 2017

Cycle stop valves are great for systems with submersible pumps. Jet pumps can usually be set up with the pressure switch to keep the pump running at a desired pressure without cycling. Most jet pumps max out at 60 psi or so, so the CSV isn't needed.

SandburRanch · Jan 14, 2017

After replacing a bladder tank I decided to see just what replacing a bladder would involve. To get the old one out it had to be cut in sections with tin snips through the hole. I've read to install a new bladder it must be twisted real tight and remain twisted some way to insert it.

As mentioned several times above, purchase a new tank and choose another time to be frugal.

rutwad · Jan 15, 2017

I would think if the bladder was bad your pump would click on and off constantly.

speedbump · Jan 15, 2017

I would think if the bladder was bad your pump would click on and off constantly.

It would as long as he was using water and it was less than could keep the pump running.

bspeedy · Jan 20, 2017

Easy to tell if your bladder is bad.

Shut off pump.
Drain water from tank. Note if any air escapes after water drains.
Check pressure in bladder. If pressurized - bladder is good. If not, bladder is bad.
Bad bladder - replace tank. Well X Trol is what I also recommend.
Good bladder - set bladder pressure to 2 psi lower than pump kick-on pressure.

If you still have problems, look elsewhere. Pressure switch, pump, foot valve, etc.

Hope this helps.

rutwad · Jan 20, 2017

I would think even with the water off. When the pump reached pressure and cut off, it would drop and make the pump kick back on.

speedbump said:
It would as long as he was using water and it was less than could keep the pump running.

speedbump · Jan 20, 2017

I would think even with the water off. When the pump reached pressure and cut off, it would drop and make the pump kick back on.

This can happen if the tank is totally void of air. Since you can't compress water, there is nothing to store pressure and the switch can hammer on and off. It happens very fast and is very hard on a motor.

hawkeye08 · Jan 20, 2017

When I replaced mine, I planned on using the old tank for air. I have my compressor in pumphouse with pressure tank and a line running underground to the shop. The big tank is sitting in the shop with air fitting on it. It allows the compressor to store up some compressed air. My plan is to eventually put it in the shop loft (out of the way) mounted in such a manner that I can drain any moisture from the main floor. I will also install a check valve in line to shop to take load off compressor.

2458n · Jan 20, 2017

Put in a new pump in the well Thursday. Get to take out tomorrow because I over tightened the fitting on the pump. Instructions for the new pump forgot to explain this. Goes on like a oil filter hand tight and one more turn. It runs but the back flow preventer is trapped and no water. Seems like the instructions would mention this. Trouble shooter for the factory says that is how he keeps his job.