I need help deciding on new trailer

[tman1020]

Tongue weight is a concern but goose neck is out because I use a contractor cap on tow vehicle. I'm hoping I won't need weight distribution hitch for short halls but safety first. Thanks for the input.

 

[check]

I know that aluminum will corrode (which is the same oxidation process as steel rusting). Aluminum is actually more reactive than Iron. The difference is that iron oxide is very brittle and doesn't adhere well to the parent iron. Aluminum oxide is extremely hard (it's often used as an abrasive) and adheres very strongly to aluminum. So steel oxidizes, but that oxide is porous and the steel underneath continues to oxidize. Pretty quickly you'll have serious pitting or perforation. Aluminum, on the other hand, oxidizes much faster than the steel but a microscopic layer of aluminum oxide quickly forms and protects the aluminum underneath from the atmosphere and the corrosion stops. You can take two identical placards of 1/4" steel and aluminum, drill a hole in each one and hang them from a dock on the seaside. In a few years, the steel sheet will probably be gone and the aluminum will look about the same as when you put it there. On the other hand, bolt the steel and aluminum sheet together, and the aluminum will rot away (and serve as a sacrificial anode to protect the steel) due to galvanic corrosion. The exception is at extreme pH. If you expose the aluminum and steel to pH extremes high enough to dissolve aluminum oxide, then the aluminum will corrode extremely quickly because it is such a reactive metal and a hard shell of aluminum oxide isn't being allowed to form to protect it. Your other point is that aluminum itself is much softer than steel, which is true. And I wouldn't use an aluminum trailer for hauling gravel or things like scrap steel regularly. But my tractor is tiny compared to most and as long as I'm not abusive by dragging implements across the deck, I would expect the all aluminum trailer to far outlast a steel trailer with a wooden deck for my use. I'm also a car guy, so there's a good chance I'll use this trailer to move a car around pretty regularly.

Hey, Park, Thanks so much for that post! I had no idea that was how aluminum worked! I have a galvanized pontoon boat trailer. Do you know how long it will last relative to aluminum or steel?

 

[check]

Yes pretty much. I'm kind of on the fence about a Beavertail though. Has anyone used both?

I have a Beavertail, and the issue is clearance. Mine is an 18 footer, and when I move it around my lot with the Fel of my tractor, I have to be very careful about how high I lift up the front end. The backend tends to drag on the ground if you lift up the front end too high. So, I would not get a Beavertail if you're going to be driving over rough terrain.

 

[Parkanzky]

Hey, Park, Thanks so much for that post! I had no idea that was how aluminum worked! I have a galvanized pontoon boat trailer. Do you know how long it will last relative to aluminum or steel?

Galvanizing steel is really just coating the steel with Zinc Oxide. Zinc Oxide is fairly hard, bonds very well to steel, and extremely inert. It functions much the same way that Aluminum Oxide does. Hot-dip galvanize a sheet of steel and hang it next to a placard of Aluminum and I don't know which would be there longer.

The disadvantage is that you only get it from the application of Zinc, whereas Aluminum oxidizes spontaneously. Galvanized steel can "self heal" a bit, but if there is significant damage, then you're left with the original, corrosion-prone steel. Consider those same two sheets of steel. Hang them up for six months. They'll probably look pretty similar when you come check on them. But now cut a corner off or drill a hole in the middle of them. The Aluminum sheet will re-oxidize at the "wound," but the steel will just have bare steel exposed.

Your pontoon trailer will probably last a very, very long time unless you wreck/repair it or decide to rewire it and drill a bunch of holes in it.

 

[check]

OK, thanks, Park. I suspected as much. Actually, the trailer was modified when I upgraded to a larger (triple tube) pontoon boat. They added a second axle with brakes, and also a middle bunk to support the 3rd (flat-bottomed) tube. However, it was done by the original manufacturer (Excalibur) where I originally bought the trailer, so I suspect they did it right and added some sort of oxidization-inhibiting goop in any new holes they drilled. Nonetheless, I will check it out the Spring after I put the boat back in the water.

 

[Xfaxman]

I have a Beavertail, and the issue is clearance. Mine is an 18 footer, and when I move it around my lot with the Fel of my tractor, I have to be very careful about how high I lift up the front end. The backend tends to drag on the ground if you lift up the front end too high. So, I would not get a Beavertail if you're going to be driving over rough terrain.

Most Beavertails are 5' long and will drag on rough terrain.

Mine is has a 4' pop up and has never got hung up in the terraced hay field.

The ramps support the weight when driving up the ramps.

When I park it with the FEL, I pick it up high enough that the front axle is off the ground, that makes it easier to jackknife into place and the back of the trailer still has plenty of clearance.

 

[CJONE]

For a smaller trailer I would not get the beavertail unless it was a deckover. My 18' with slide in ramps [I hate them by the way because I almost always haul equipment] is the most versatile like Diamond said. CJ

 

[tman1020]

Well the plug has been pulled. Today I ordered a 20' 10 k Beavertail 60/40 axel split. heavyweight stand up ramps 7 k jack and tongue box. Decided on stand up ramps for 2 reasons; main use is hauling tractor or mower. Secondly, I have a set of 5 foot medium duty ramps that I could switch to if these are a problem. Thanks for everyone's input I really appreciate hearing others experiences. It helped a lot in working it out in my mind what will be the best for me.

 

[Xfaxman]

Congratulations, we are now waiting on pictures! :thumbsup:

 

[check]

Look, I don't want to boast, but I absolutely knew that is what you were going to do, tman1020. Guess how I knew?

 

[tman1020]

Know idea. To bad u didn't let me know then. Would have saved me a lot of time.

 

[tman1020]

I got the call th trailer is done but we just got hit by a snow storm and pick up is a hour away. Hopefully next week.

 

[tman1020]

I picked up the trailer on Monday got it home no problem however it's covered in salt and snow from the roads I'll post pictures when I have a chance to get it cleaned up weather is really crappy here right now. I'm very pleased with it pulls well it's not overly heavy and I really like the axle ratio. It is much higher to the deck than I anticipated so I'm very glad I opted for the dovetail. Stand up ramps seem very well-made and are easy to operate with the spring assist. No more picking up and moving those heavy ramps. Also it looks like they would be easy to remove if I needed to. I compared the weight from this one to the 14 K I'm borrowing this one ways in about 2400#. Where is the 14 K is north of 4000 pounds.

 

[downslope]

I picked up the trailer on Monday got it home no problem however it's covered in salt and snow from the roads I'll post pictures when I have a chance to get it cleaned up weather is really crappy here right now. I'm very pleased with it pulls well it's not overly heavy and I really like the axle ratio. It is much higher to the deck than I anticipated so I'm very glad I opted for the dovetail. Stand up ramps seem very well-made and are easy to operate with the spring assist. No more picking up and moving those heavy ramps. Also it looks like they would be easy to remove if I needed to. I compared the weight from this one to the 14 K I'm borrowing this one ways in about 2400#. Where is the 14 K is north of 4000 pounds.

Is your new trailer the same length and width as the 14K borrowed one? Can anyone tell me if 1600+ lbs is a typical increase in weight when you go from a 10K trailer to a 14K? Would it be about an equal increase when you go from a 10K to a 12 and then from a 12K to a 14?
It seems a shame that adding over 1600 lbs to the trailer construction only results in 2400 lb increase in capacity, but maybe that's just the way it is.

PS: Good luck with the new trailer, hope it does all your tasks well.

 

[tman1020]

Thank you downslope yes it is the exact same size except for Axel placement. As far as the weight jumps to higher capacities from what I found it just depends on the manufacturer. Mine is technically considered a car hauler not a equipment trailer. I think what that means is different Axel placement and a lighter weight trailer. 10 K was the maximum for this particular trailer it comes standard as a 7K. Most of the equipment trailers I looked at started out at a minimum of 10K and had heavier frames. I did not see many 12 K. I believe that by the time it is built heavy enough to handle 12 K it is almost stout enough to be a 14k so they just go that route.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Is your new trailer the same length and width as the 14K borrowed one? Can anyone tell me if 1600+ lbs is a typical increase in weight when you go from a 10K trailer to a 14K? Would it be about an equal increase when you go from a 10K to a 12 and then from a 12K to a 14?
It seems a shame that adding over 1600 lbs to the trailer construction only results in 2400 lb increase in capacity, but maybe that's just the way it is.

PS: Good luck with the new trailer, hope it does all your tasks well.

I think the 1600# increase sounds reasonable. It's just the way the game is played. Same thing happens when you go to a GN from a BP with a big weight jump. Going from a 14K trailer to a 20K is also a huge jump.

Chris

 

[downslope]

I think the 1600# increase sounds reasonable. It's just the way the game is played. Same thing happens when you go to a GN from a BP with a big weight jump. Going from a 14K trailer to a 20K is also a huge jump.

Chris

For most manufacturers is a 12K trailer usually just different axles, 6-lug vs 5-lug wheels and maybe 0ne size up on the 15" tires? I thought I read that somewhere.

If that's the case then probably not much added weight for 12K vs 10K and not much more $$ either, maybe $150-200. But when you go from 12 to 14K, now you've got heavy axles with 8-lug 16" truck type wheels and the heavier frame, hitch, ramps, etc to go with it, along with a bigger price jump.

 

[Diamondpilot]

For most manufacturers is a 12K trailer usually just different axles, 6-lug vs 5-lug wheels and maybe 0ne size up on the 15" tires? I thought I read that somewhere. If that's the case then probably not much added weight for 12K vs 10K and not much more $$ either, maybe $150-200. But when you go from 12 to 14K, now you've got heavy axles with 8-lug 16" truck type wheels and the heavier frame, hitch, ramps, etc to go with it, along with a bigger price jump.

No, it's much more than that.

It's different springs, different axles (still 6lug like 5200# axles but thicker wall materials), 16" wheels vs 15", larger tires, and usually a heavier coupler.

You are right though, the weight is not much more. Maybe 150# tops in most cases.

Chris

 

[tman1020]

The jump up to 12 or 14 k besides Axels & wheels was a 6" heavy channel and heavier cross members vrs the 5" channel with angle cross members I have on the 10 k. I think that is where they pick up most of the weight difference. I didn't compare any tube frames. How ever I did see some manufacturers using 6 " channel on the 10 k. At that point I think the heaviest Axel is the way to go. I wanted a lighter trailer and didn't want aluminum.

 

[tman1020]

Got the trailer all cleaned up finally and loaded up the tractor. Fits much better than the 16 foot landscape trailer I was using. I'm very happy with the ramp choice they don't look like they would be hard to slide off at all if I needed to. I'm going to build some sides for it next and a taller bulkhead.