Looking for a good Chain Saw sharpener

[stevenf]

I've read many of the chain saw threads and lots of the folks sharpen their own saw blades. I've always bought 3 or 4 blades for my stihls and when they get dull drop them off to have them sharpened. They usually charge me $4 or $5 per chain to sharpen them but I just recently bought a new Stihl MS 260 pro and am cutting a lot more wood now days since we heat with only wood stoves and some of the threads indicated that the shops grind an excess off so they can sell more blades more often. I'd like one of the sharpeners that does the blade and the standoff point in one stroke (manual is OK maybe even prefered so I could use it in the field) Can anyone reccomend from experience what and where to find one and some basic idea of what I should expect to spend.
Steve

 

[Dozernut]

I have a Harbor Freight sharpener that works real well. Here is a link sharpner showing the unit. Watch for an in store sale, I have seen them as low as $69.00. I just file the rakers down by hand, 3-4 strokes per raker will do it. You do not need to file the rakers every time you sharpen, just when a sharpened chain no longer makes a good chip.

 

[mikim]

That's a lot like the bench grinder I have - I think I got mine from Baileys ... I like the bench grinder much better than any hand operated one I've ever had. It's faster and more accurate for me. I always had trouble free handing cause I can't see worth a crap and evidently do not have enough hand/eye coordination so it makes it a bit more idiot proof. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif - I always sharpen 2 or 3 for a days cutting and am good to go.

 

[stevenf]

Thanks for adding the part about the rakers I'd have gone on my merry way and been filing them every time.
Steve

 

[milkman]

I've found good deals at this place, also look for the part called the scrench holder, it's a rubber piece that slips on the wrap around handle that holds the wrench/screwdriver for your saw, neat little apparatus. They have pro chain at a really good price also, cuts good, we'll see how it lasts, I'm really pleased so far. Attached is a file holder that is to file both the teeth and the drags at the same time.

 

[PineRidge]

If you purchase a depth gauge to fit your specific chain like our picture you will know when you need to file the raker's and by how much. I picked one up for my Stihl saw and it was only a couple of bucks.

We use a Oregon electric sharpener and it makes easy work out of sharpening chains.

 

[erich]

Stevenf

I sharpen my own chains with just the round file no guide, no jig. Once you get the hang of it it really is easy and they are pretty forgiving. If you sharpen the chain about every other time you gas up you will be amazed at how much easier the cutting goes. If you always take the same number of strokes on each tooth you will keep the teeth fairly even. I only take 4-6 strokes on each tooth unless i hit something. If you hit something you might as well stop and sharpen it then or you'll work yourself to death. When you are done for the day you can check your rakers. I check the chips to see if its getting dull as well. If you can see measurable chips you are doing ok. If they look like saw dust its time to sharpen things up. You can get an idea if the rakers need filing by checking the chips after you sharpen the teeth. The chips will be bigger right after you file the rakers and smaller as time goes by.

The gages and jigs will get you started in the right direction when you start off I suppose.

I am not a professional woodcutter by any means. I cut about 4-8 cord a year for our own use. I have had the benefit of working with some old timers that were pro's in their youth. I learned a lot by just watching and asking questions.

Eric

 

[stevenf]

erich, Thanks My dad didn't use a chain saw much and since I'm in South Texas there isn't a lot of logging that goes on around here so my experience is limited to what I picked up from my cedar cutters and my alcoholic neighbor who thinks he knows how to sharpen a chain saw but only owns the smallest electric chain saw that Remington ever made. Its probably a good thing for my neighbor the last time he came down to the ranch he drove thru a 5 wire barbed wire fence and didn't know it, better yet he was on a battery powered ezgo at the time with no cab. He knocked on our door about 2am after having left about midnight and said he had come back for his bottle and was planning on walking home because he'd lost his ezgo somewhere. It took an hour to help him find it and get the wire unwrapped from his axles and to stop most of the bleeding. On second thought maybe he shouldn't own any kind of chain saw.
Steve

 

[jeffinsgf]

I have had very good luck with the Pferd filing guide. Helps control the angle and cuts the raker at the same time, equal to the amount the tooth is being cut.

Pferd USA Home Page

Go to the products link, then to the Chainsaw files and accessories catalog.

 

[Charolais]

http://www.madsens1.com/fileshrp.htm#proguide And go down the page to ProFile Guide.

I bought one made by Oregon back in 1984. Picked up the second one about 10 years ago at a flea market. Use one for right side and the other for left side. They cost more today. Think I paid $16 for the first guide and $5 for the second.

I heat with wood here too. Lots of wood. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif My son and I run 2 saws. Wouldn't think of sharpening without this type of guide. Two to three strokes per tooth and the chain is ready.

And I agree. Those wheel grinders take off way to much of the tooth.