Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[RobJ]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm reusing the head bolts and haven't ever heard you shouldn't, so they're keepers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Everything seems simple enough to me now, except for the valve timing. Finding TDC for each cylinder seems kind of tricky and I'm hoping the valves opening and closeing as I turn the crank will be fairly obvious.

The only time I've adjusted valves is on a VW in highschool, and it was always running at the time.
)</font>

I would not replace the head bolts but interestingly enough I recently replaced the head gaskets on my sons 3.8 v6 mustang. They say to replace the bolts because they are stretch bolts. Preload with a few ftlbs then turn so many degrees in stages. Just like some of the diesels I worked on.

On setting the valves, your firing order should be 153624(probably on the block....15 to young, 36 to old, 24 just right /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) You can set the valves by turning the engine over twice(2 rotations). Find TDC on number 1, set the valves, turn the engine over 120 degrees(2 turns total, 360 degrees * 2 = 720 degrees, 720 divided by 6 = 120...if my math is correct). Set number 5, then another 120 degrees then number 3 and so on. Not to bad on a 6 cylinder but on a 12 cylinder I only had to turn it 60 degrees to get to the next cylinder.

Good Luck!

 

[RobJ]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm reusing the head bolts and haven't ever heard you shouldn't, so they're keepers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Everything seems simple enough to me now, except for the valve timing. Finding TDC for each cylinder seems kind of tricky and I'm hoping the valves opening and closeing as I turn the crank will be fairly obvious.

The only time I've adjusted valves is on a VW in highschool, and it was always running at the time.
)</font>

I would not replace the head bolts but interestingly enough I recently replaced the head gaskets on my sons 3.8 v6 mustang. They say to replace the bolts because they are stretch bolts. Preload with a few ftlbs then turn so many degrees in stages. Just like some of the diesels I worked on.

On setting the valves, your firing order should be 153624(probably on the block....15 to young, 36 to old, 24 just right /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) You can set the valves by turning the engine over twice(2 rotations). Find TDC on number 1, set the valves, turn the engine over 120 degrees(2 turns total, 360 degrees * 2 = 720 degrees, 720 divided by 6 = 120...if my math is correct). Set number 5, then another 120 degrees then number 3 and so on. Not to bad on a 6 cylinder but on a 12 cylinder I only had to turn it 60 degrees to get to the next cylinder.

Good Luck!

 

[EddieWalker]

Rob,

Thanks for the help on the valves.


Plowrup,

"what part failed?"

From what I can tell, it looks like bottom compression ring broke, or even shattered. It was in six pieces. The break was about midway from the ends of the ring. The land were the ring sits in the piston is about three times it's normal width and the cylinder sleeve is huge from massive taper.

Why did the ring break?

Was that what happend first, or was there too much taper and then it broke?

There has been a tap tap tap noise on the engive from day one when I bought it. Not sure what it was, but was told it was an exhaust leak by the salesman. Guese it's safe to say I should have spent more time on the noise, but I got allot of use out of the engine with the tapping noise, so I don't know.

When I had an issue with my hydraulic pump, I sent the dozer to Case and had their mechanics look at it. They said I needed three new hydraulic pumps at $20,000 each and that the tapping noise was a hole in the piston.

They got it wrong on all accounts. The hydraulic issue cleared itself up and none of the pistons had a hole in them.

As to the head, yes, it was checked and everything is good on it. Even the valves were fine and reused.

I haven't touched the injector pump since I thougt it was working great. Never a problem starting and it ran fine, but then again, I never thought about it.

What does it mean to have it recallibrated?

It's a Bosch pump with it's own oil line for lubrication. I know because a pine tree snuck up past my belly plates and took ou that hose one time. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Do I just take it off and bring it to a fuel injector shop and haev the look at it and recalibrate it? Or do you need it on the engine to calibrate it?

Does the calibration change on the pump when I remove and replace the injector nozzles?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Rob,

Thanks for the help on the valves.


Plowrup,

"what part failed?"

From what I can tell, it looks like bottom compression ring broke, or even shattered. It was in six pieces. The break was about midway from the ends of the ring. The land were the ring sits in the piston is about three times it's normal width and the cylinder sleeve is huge from massive taper.

Why did the ring break?

Was that what happend first, or was there too much taper and then it broke?

There has been a tap tap tap noise on the engive from day one when I bought it. Not sure what it was, but was told it was an exhaust leak by the salesman. Guese it's safe to say I should have spent more time on the noise, but I got allot of use out of the engine with the tapping noise, so I don't know.

When I had an issue with my hydraulic pump, I sent the dozer to Case and had their mechanics look at it. They said I needed three new hydraulic pumps at $20,000 each and that the tapping noise was a hole in the piston.

They got it wrong on all accounts. The hydraulic issue cleared itself up and none of the pistons had a hole in them.

As to the head, yes, it was checked and everything is good on it. Even the valves were fine and reused.

I haven't touched the injector pump since I thougt it was working great. Never a problem starting and it ran fine, but then again, I never thought about it.

What does it mean to have it recallibrated?

It's a Bosch pump with it's own oil line for lubrication. I know because a pine tree snuck up past my belly plates and took ou that hose one time. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Do I just take it off and bring it to a fuel injector shop and haev the look at it and recalibrate it? Or do you need it on the engine to calibrate it?

Does the calibration change on the pump when I remove and replace the injector nozzles?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[plowrup]

Well,

Let's not touch the Pump at this time as I realize you are trying to keep this repair in reason-you have/are either replacing or testing ALL Injectors, correct?

The Ring breakage COULD be related to Sleeve taper (which is normal). Could be a bad Injector washing the Cylinder down, could be lots of things possibly-would need to see the parts.

as far as calibration goes, it has to do with the fuel rate and injection "pulses" , along with fuel timing and other factors. Basically, it can determine horsepower (or lack of), engne performance, emissions, etc. With this being a budget build, if it were running o.k., let's leave it alone.

One more thing-when you are finished with this rebuild, I would recommend using an oil such as the John Deere "break-in" oil until your first oil change, then use whatever you have been using. This oil will be low in additives such as zinc, anti-wear compounds and such and will aid in the ring run-in. After that, I would recommend either the CAse Number 1 Oil, John Deere Plus 50 or Shell Rotella T-just my .02-

 

[plowrup]

Well,

Let's not touch the Pump at this time as I realize you are trying to keep this repair in reason-you have/are either replacing or testing ALL Injectors, correct?

The Ring breakage COULD be related to Sleeve taper (which is normal). Could be a bad Injector washing the Cylinder down, could be lots of things possibly-would need to see the parts.

as far as calibration goes, it has to do with the fuel rate and injection "pulses" , along with fuel timing and other factors. Basically, it can determine horsepower (or lack of), engne performance, emissions, etc. With this being a budget build, if it were running o.k., let's leave it alone.

One more thing-when you are finished with this rebuild, I would recommend using an oil such as the John Deere "break-in" oil until your first oil change, then use whatever you have been using. This oil will be low in additives such as zinc, anti-wear compounds and such and will aid in the ring run-in. After that, I would recommend either the CAse Number 1 Oil, John Deere Plus 50 or Shell Rotella T-just my .02-

 

[HGM]

[quoteI would not replace the head bolts but interestingly enough I recently replaced the head gaskets on my sons 3.8 v6 mustang. They say to replace the bolts because they are stretch bolts. Preload with a few ftlbs then turn so many degrees in stages. Just like some of the diesels I worked on.
)</font>

Torque to yeild bolts are all the rage..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.. Seriously, I would check the manual on anything I build just to see what the MFG recomendation is on the bolts(head bolts in particular).. Most of the Ford engines out there(including diesel) are curently using Tq to yeild bolts.. The reasoning is that the "calibrated" stretch of these bolts provides more accurate and uniform clamping force.. These bolts "can not" be reused.. They will not return to the original dimensions, so even though it may work to reuse them, you would likely be setting yourself up for a premature headgasket failure..

I dont believe this will be an issue in your case Eddie, sounds like the advise from the guys who have done these before dont recomend it, so I wouldnt either..

 

[HGM]

[quoteI would not replace the head bolts but interestingly enough I recently replaced the head gaskets on my sons 3.8 v6 mustang. They say to replace the bolts because they are stretch bolts. Preload with a few ftlbs then turn so many degrees in stages. Just like some of the diesels I worked on.
)</font>

Torque to yeild bolts are all the rage..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.. Seriously, I would check the manual on anything I build just to see what the MFG recomendation is on the bolts(head bolts in particular).. Most of the Ford engines out there(including diesel) are curently using Tq to yeild bolts.. The reasoning is that the "calibrated" stretch of these bolts provides more accurate and uniform clamping force.. These bolts "can not" be reused.. They will not return to the original dimensions, so even though it may work to reuse them, you would likely be setting yourself up for a premature headgasket failure..

I dont believe this will be an issue in your case Eddie, sounds like the advise from the guys who have done these before dont recomend it, so I wouldnt either..

 

[Highbeam]

Eddie, you've gone way beyond where I can help. Promise us all that you'll have some photos of first fire up. It will happen soon I'm sure and the burn off of the asssmebly lube will be gratification for us all.

 

[Highbeam]

Eddie, you've gone way beyond where I can help. Promise us all that you'll have some photos of first fire up. It will happen soon I'm sure and the burn off of the asssmebly lube will be gratification for us all.