Swapping Robin out with Kohler today

[woodlandfarms]

So what wrenches do you have? Crows feet and Hydraulic wrenches (Martin Tools OB18K Wrench Set - Hand Tools) round out my tools and I have pretty good luck....

 

[ponytug]

I bought some offset angle wrenches from HF that I use to get the hydraulic hoses. (1/2" to 1 1/2" set) You can swap ends and get ~17 degrees of motion if you have to.
There are some really challenging ones on my tub, too.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Frank Sorbello]

I bought a set of Crow Feet from Sears today. It won't budge! I have very little room. Afraid I am going to break off the nipple on the tank. It is the bottom hose closest to the tub wall.

 

[Marks481]

How about surgery? Cut the hose off so you can get a deep-well 6 point socket over it with a 1/2" drive breaker bar on it...

 

[ponytug]

Before you cut it off, I would put some PowerBlaster, or something similar on it, and tap (not hit!) it a couple of times and give it some time to soak in. The fitting has been through a bunch of hot/cold cycles and has some amount of corrosion on it for sure. Having cracked one of the hose flange nuts, I think that the difference between "normal", i.e. leak free, torque and broken is small.

If you have all of the flammables out of the way and some water in the bottom of your tub, I might think of a small bit of heat from a heat gun or a butane micro torch.

Along the lines of "It is plugged in, right?" I feel compelled to ask "Righty, tighty, lefty, loosey, right?"

Once you give up on it, a wrench with a piece of pipe is your friend.

All the best,

Peter

 

[aczlan]

Before you cut it off, I would put some PowerBlaster, or something similar on it, and tap (not hit!) it a couple of times and give it some time to soak in. The fitting has been through a bunch of hot/cold cycles and has some amount of corrosion on it for sure. Having cracked one of the hose flange nuts, I think that the difference between "normal", i.e. leak free, torque and broken is small.

If you have all of the flammables out of the way and some water in the bottom of your tub, I might think of a small bit of heat from a heat gun or a butane micro torch.

Along the lines of "It is plugged in, right?" I feel compelled to ask "Righty, tighty, lefty, loosey, right?"

Once you give up on it, a wrench with a piece of pipe is your friend.

All the best,

Peter

It looks like a JIC fitting. If so, it should be easy to get off once you break it loose.
I might disconnect the other end and see if you can fit an offset wrench (like this: 8 Piece Metric Offset Box Wrench Set or make your own with a torch and a HF wrench) over the hose and down to the fitting.

Aaron Z

 

[woodlandfarms]

Here is one thing I have found. If you can get a wrench on it, and then put a pipe on the wrench it will move. It is scary as all heck, but nice steady heavy pressure will get that to go.

You are concerned you are going to mess up the nipple. Well guess what, it is already messed up. there is a pipe stuck to it and you can't complete your project until you get it off. Once that gets in your head then it is a bit less scary (Trust me, I live in the above place all the time and it is what I have to do to get through it. Fear of taking something off and never getting it back on is perpetual with me.

Pretty sure those nipples coming out of the tank are replaceable. You are not going to screw up because they are rated at like some crazy high PSI and "strong as ox" but if you do mess up, you can replace them Ain't fun but not impossible.

 

[MossRoad]

Can you remove the other end of that hose and snake it where you need it instead of disconnecting that end?

 

[Frank Sorbello]

I was able to get the hose off. I had to disconnect all the hoses first then take off all the fittings in the tank. A couple felt like they were going to snap off but they didn't. Now I am trying to dry up all the old oil and debris and put an Earl Scheib paint job in the tub. No matter how much you wipe it down, it is still oily. Not sure what I am going to do, but I know one thing, it ain't going to be pretty.

 

[aczlan]

Hit it with something like simple green. That will cut through the oil.

Aaron Z

 

[Marks481]

Now I am trying to dry up all the old oil... No matter how much you wipe it down, it is still oily.

Oil has soaked through the pores in the steel. As much as you wipe up, it will keep bubbling back to the surface.

How about something like Gunk HD Engine degreaser?

Maybe warming the steel with a propane torch to help bake out the oil?

 

[Frank Sorbello]

Next step is replacing the wire harness. Anyone ever do this? Is there an easy way to snake the new wire harness thru all the hydraulic hoses?

Thanks
Frank

 

[woodlandfarms]

Two choices on wiring. Tape the new wire to the old wire and pull it through or fish it with a stronger wire

I don't know your machine but you may want to re design your wiring. My machine suffers from a poor design so when it fails I am going to do a major rebuild

 

[Frank Sorbello]

I was able to pull the new harness through with ease. Thanks Woodland Farms, i taped the new to the old and just pulled it through.

 

[Frank Sorbello]

I need a new voltage regulator for the 25hp Kohler. Is there a specific regulator for Kohler? I've looked on line not exactly sure what the voltage regulator does, so not sure which one is best for the Power Trac. Terry said he doesn't have any at PT, and I should be able to find one pretty easily on line.

 

[Marks481]

I need a new voltage regulator for the 25hp Kohler. Is there a specific regulator for Kohler? I've looked on line not exactly sure what the voltage regulator does, so not sure which one is best for the Power Trac.

The voltage regulator takes the rippled AC output of the alternator, rectifies it to DC, and then reduces/controls it at about 14.5V. A non-functional regulator can damage the battery with too high a voltage, or maybe provide no voltage out at all.

Assuming you have a CH740 25 hp engine, you need a Kohler 2540332S. Here are some places to buy:
Amazon.com : Kohler 25 43 32-S Rectifier Regulator : Lawn Mower Deck Parts : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Regulator/Rectifier [254332-S] for Kohler Lawn Equipment | eReplacement Parts
Kohler Part # 2540332S Regulator Rectifier Efi [2540332S] : Kohler Engines and Kohler Engine Parts Store, Genuine Kohler Engine Parts

 

[Frank Sorbello]

Any tips for cutting the shaft? Not looking forward to this part.

 

[BobRip]

Any tips for cutting the shaft? Not looking forward to this part.

Talk to Terry at Power Trac. He has some suggestions. He told me to keep a wet rag on the shaft to keep the oil seal from being damaged by the cutting heat.

 

[Marks481]

Use a chop saw with a fine tooth bimetal blade (unless you have a porta-band saw).

Take the cut slow; sort of like grinding HSS when you don't want to let the material heat up. Keep your hand on the shaft, and when it starts to get uncomfortable (130F), stop, pour some water on it, wait for it to cool down, rinse and repeat.

After you get done, you probably want to clean up the edges with a angle grinder. Again, take it slow, checking temperature frequently.

 

[Frank Sorbello]

Thanks Tim & Bob. Not sure just yet how I am going to cut it. Bought some new carbide blades for my reciprocating saw, just nervous about cutting a shaft on a brand new $1600 engine. I asked Terry today what is the worst case scenario if I mess it up, he said you'll have a new boat anchor. Just what I needed to hear. lol