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Quick update: I removed the breather tube and it's clean with no noticeable cracks or any damage. Other than a little normal grimy/dirt around the top of the engine and the breather housing, it all looked good. Even down inside the breather housing - very clean. So I believe that is...

No, the filter is just clean foam rubber.

Great points, thank you. I'm going to give the breather tube/setup an extremely closer inspection as you and TomPlum have mentioned it. Don't believe over filled oil, really dirty air filter or dipstick not seated are the issues. Compression is quite good (both around 155-165) so not...

The airbox is definitely not dry/clean. If you look at the images it shows the box and I think it is the left side that us prerty oily. I’ve never noticed a “breather” with reed and foam filter. On the engine a parts diagram- where would I look? THANK YOU!

Disregard; I figured it out. I need that #161 spring. Thanks all

Disregard; I figured it out. I need that #161 spring. Thanks all

Hi all, I have a Husqy 960450007 01 and the drive belt is quite loose. Maybe the belt is stretched but ...it barely drives. Noticing on parts diagram that there is a Return Spring listed (#161 below) but I'll be dammed if I can see this under my machine. Can anyone comment if they have one...

Thanks Tom. No oil dripping from breather hose. If anything, oil level is a little on the low side. Thinking if I add more oil, it's going to "suck it up" to wherever it's leaking from, no? I set the valves, put new gaskets on with gasket sealer and didn't over torque - tightened evenly and...

I have this Kohler Courage 26hp (SV735) twin engine and noticing oily residue up around the aircleaner box by the carb, the front of the carb, under the carb at solenoid and directly below it. Stupid question but: What would cause this? Engine is NOT overfilled with oil. Valves are set...

I will be crawling under there shortly to see what’s going on!!! 🤠

I just got a Craftsman riding mower with the snowblower attachment on it. Got it running today and the augers are “on” or engaged even with the manual type PTO disengaged. I am obviously missing something - wonder if anyone can shed light on what that is. Thanks in advance. Thinking a return...

It is doing well now, thank you all. I believe it was one of the tires was sufficiently under inflated and I did put the machine/deck on ply wood and measured my side-to-side heights and made the same. Front to back was good. Blades good. Mowing: Goooooooooooood. Thank you again.

Thanks all!!!! Blades are mounted correctly, sharp and have plenty of meat on them. Tire pressure is good. I do believe the deck is not hanging correctly/level so I gotta figure that out. The adjustable hangers at the back are set the same. Also need to confirm the “rake”. I think it’s supposed...

Get ready to laugh, but in the last 20 years of owning a few nice riding mowers with 54” 3-blade decks, I hadn’t ever noticed the distinct “line” left between blades (see pics). Why am I just seeing this now? Obviously the blades can’t overlap, they’d hit each other. Is the deck height so low...

(sorry if I am not posting this in the right section of the forum...). I have a nice old Woods Brush Hog with the oil/lubrication fluid reservoir (see red arrow in image) and she's leaking like a sieve. Does anyone have a repair DIY video or instructions? Thank you, Jay

Losened the engine bolts and got it off. Crazy... Thanks.

I think part of my issue is that this carb was secured with 8mm bolts, not phillips head screws - so I couldn't get at things, especially that bolt which secured the control panel closest to the carb body. All swapped now and running great. Thanks all. BUT WOULDN'T YA KNOW IT: The pull cord...

And of course I found the info stamped on the engine housing!

Ooo again. A great "Taryl fixes all" video:

Oooo: Look what I found:

Thanks Randy. I think I did some variation of this the first time as I didn't remove the tank. But removed tank today and kinda glad I did - the governor arm and that geared/slide down at the bottome of the bracket as an oily gunky mess!!! But now my issue is that I am not sure that I got all...

Thanks all!!!! Tank removal it is!!!

I've done this before (removing carb) but it's been a while and I'm baffled as to how to get this carb off; (see pics). It's mounted atop the small gas tank and getting access to everything is a challenge. I've gotten all the bolts/screws off but now cant remove the governor/throttle linkage...

I am looking at the Owners Manual from the Husqvarna website and they show the belt off to the right of the steering column (see below). I've read other posts that this is Wrong and that you do need to remove the steering column, run the belt around forward PTO pulley, idlers, and rear trans...

I'm working on a neighbors machine and the drive belt snapped. He's not to handy, so I said I'd help. I looked up the "parts diagram" for the Husqvarna model number, 960430159-01, and found the drive belt: 532420807. Haven't found a video showing the drive belt replacement, and it didn't...

It was the starter solenoid. Loose connection(s) and not the cleanest. Problem solved - running great. Thanks all!!!!

Thanks Gem. Yes, I have made sure - I can hear the electric clutch engage and disengage. The more I dig in, I think it's start solenoid related. But Massachusetts decide to snow early this morning and now rain so I'm a wee bit hesitant to trudge out. But I'll let y'all know. Thank you.

Sorry I have not been back to close the loop on this. The Kohler was indeed seized. I've been hard at work having secured a donor ride-on mower that had a nice 24hp Briggs twin which I've swapped into the Kohler's place. Now I'm finding - I think - that the solenoid for the starter was not...

Thanks as always Tom!!! I did go out after dinner tonight and found two of the connections to the solenoid were not tight, or as tight as I would have thought they should be. I'll dig in further tomorrow. What says you about the ground wire coming off the battery, that was bolted the the...

I recently acquired an otherwise Nice 2013 ZRT 50 with 300 hours, model number 17AFCACP056, but the previous owner ran it without oil and seized the Kohler Courage 23hp engine. I got a Briggs 24hp engine with the same crankshaft and swapped. So far so good. Two quick questions: (And forgive...

Ahhh. I just know when I look at machines that people get at Lowes or Home Depot, that are painted green & yellow and say John Deere, or orange and gray and say Husqvarna, but at the end of the day ...theyre MTD...

Not that I see, but am always on the lookout. Thank you

The second link helps greatly, thank you. I bought the cover connected to the first link for the left side (as you sit on the mower) - but am I ...that stupid that I thought it was a completely different cover for the right side of the deck? Is it the same cover on both side, just flipped...

Thank you, RandyT. Yea, my gut sank a little when I noticed the "MTD" in the model number tag.... But I can ohm out the switches, one by one, until I find the culprit - or move onto other suspects like bad ground. Again, (last time I'll say it), weird that it was running fine and then died...

PTO was not engaged; (good thought though). And with that, I did pull the PTO knob - heard that solenoid snap/click - so I know it's functioning. But still ZERO sound/activity when I try to start. No bound up starter or anything. I gotta try turning the crank/pulley underneath and confirm if...

Thanks again, Carl_NH (and all). Quick question though, re the carb solenoid: If the solenoid was bad, wouldn't the engine still crank and try and start? It just wouldn't run because it's not getting fuel up into venturi... Right?

Hi all, Not sure why I'm having such a hard time find the above info. I even entered in my actual machine model number (image attached) and the John Deere site has LOTS of information, but, can't find the parts diagram that shows the black plastic pulley/belt cover(s). Can someone slap some...

Not sure this is the 'right' Cub machine tag, (engine one is). If not the correct Cub tag - where is it located?

Great questions. Fuse was/is fine. I haven't checked all switches but did disconnect seat switch with no change. Didn't hear the carb solenoid when I turned the key but where its at the bottom of the engine behind me, ... I may need a helper. Then I'll check other switches and then move to...

I'm about to check - muddy as all get out and need to reach under to the crank pulley... This Kohler engine has a cover over the "plate" that spins with engine rotation on top. I'll report back. Thank you.

Hi all, This machine was running well, then started sputtering and died. Now I can't restart it - there's absolutely no activity/sound from the starter or anything. Lights come on when I turn the key, (dashboard shows voltage, hours, etc.). Oil light is on. I checked oil and it was low, so...

UPDATE: Thanks so much, everyone. Headgasket, in that classic spot at 3:00 between piston and pushrod section. Cleaned everything up, new gasket with sealer, properly torqued, reset valves ...and NEW machine. 135psi!!!! Thank you.

Thanks Tomm (as always). I have the head gasket(s) and others coming - will report back.

Model # 31P777-0296E1 Engine starts right up, runs well, and has about 93psi compression. But after a minute or so, oil is coming out the vent hole of the fuel pump. Another time it spit back out through the dipstick tube. Assumedly, I have pressure in the crankcase? Bad head gasket? I...

Thank you all for your help. I went back to the original carb, cleaned it (again), and the machine is running pretty well. I ordered a new (OEM) ignition coil and did clean the fly wheel magnet. Hopefully she stays happy!!! Thanks again

Yes, only 1 control for both choke and throttle. I'll check adjustment! Thank you

Briggs model: 286H77 type: 0165 E1

It's not "only has issues when on a hill". If I"m on flat ground and pull the PTO for the mower blades, it does the same thing. It's when under load ....and high throttle (but I run all my other machines at full throttle).

THANK YOU ALL!!! Here's some notes: I did drain the tank, blew out everything, installed new lines and new fuel filter. Always use premium gas Put in new spark plug Put in new carb, though likely not 100% OEM match; $35 on Amazon - which I've had very good success with many other carbs Did...

I have a Toro Wheelhorse that sat for a year and I’m trying to bring it back to life. Drained the old gas, got a new fuel filter, out on a new carb …and it starts right up and drives around in flat surfaces. But the minute I go up a hill or engage the mower deck, it sputters …assuredly because...

And how did the snow get in there, you ask??? Well, because I'm a STOOPID - that's how. Battery was dead so I went to change it - took air/oil filter vent stack off to open hood ....... and never went back. 15" dump and just realizing I didn't put that vent cover back on. How screwed am I...

Turns out to be a bad ground cable off the battery to the frame. It was clamped on good and tight, but I was getting bad readings for power at the starter and other using the frame as ground. I disconnected, cleaned, put idelectric grease on it and reattached and ...back in bid'ness...

Thanks JC. Not for nuthin, but - other than confirming the battery is charged and that the starter works, what does jumping it tell me? Mannnnn, I feel like I'm missing something simple - and thought I had it nailed when I found that POS wire off the back of the alternator. Ggggrrrrrrr

Thank you!

When you say, "check for voltage at the ignition lug" I'm assuming you mean one of the pins on the back of the ignition switch? Can you tell on the image I attached which is that lug? (Sorry if I'm a stooopid)

PTO is disengaged. Good idea

Dang. It still won’t run - zero electricals with the battery ready 12.6v. I thought for sure that wire hanging out in space off the BAT pole on the back of the alternator was it. Kept tracing up to the back of the dash, don’t see anything obvious (disconnected or broken wire). Ground cable is...

I believe I found the issue. I chased the POS wiring to the back of the alternator and found the “BAT” pole was naked, with what appears to be a broken threaded post, rust nut, and a connector hanging in the breeze; assumedly previously connected to said BAT post. See pics. Only question...

Nothing comes on when the key is turned to ON position; neither of the two red lights, guages, nothing...

Don't disagree. Battery cables on battery are snug. Just weird how I was going along just fine, got bogged down on a little dirt, she quit - and then dead machine. Time to investigate more deeply.......

I have the machine in neutral

Was out doing my normal brush hogging, all going fine/normal, when I went over a section of raise up dirt that bogged down the machine. I assumed it was just a small mound and after restarting without PTO engaged that I'd drive forward to smooth ground and continue --- but machine is 100%...

thank you

I did this and they seem ...okay/good. Thanks! Going to mount up the new head gasket and see what I find. Quick question: Do I use a gasket sealer or no?

Thank you. I haven’t worked on these types of valves before but …maybe they’re gunked up and need lapping? Will check the head bolts and go from there.

Thank you all for info. WinterDeere I’ll definitely check head bolts. Quick question: I had planned to adjust valves just to eliminate that possibility…but this engine doesn’t have OHV or rockers …is it possible to adjust tappet valves on a flat head motor, or at least an engine with no...

Thanks all. Complete B&S engine details are below. Spark plug seemed good (I cleaned it and reinstalled after testing and it showed good spark; can easily get another). Thinking I might check valve lap? Briggs and Stratton 128T05-5123-B1

Thank you. And just to confirm, “rebuild” means what to you? Piston, rings, head gasket?

The machine runs on starter fluid, quite well, but dies immediately once it's gone. I've cleaned the old carb, tried a new one, swapped fuel line, confirmed gas is good... Checked compression and getting just a hair over 60psi after 3 pulls. Is that my issue, poor compression? Thank you, Jay

No Tom, I did not (shamed). I’ll do that tomorrow.

GENERAL UPDATE FOR ALL: Again, machine starts easily and normally with choke. Runs fine for about 2 seconds and then dies, unless I pull choke again ......BUT IT IS DYING RIGHT AS THE GOVERNOR IS OPENING THE THROTTLE. Does this help anyonne diagnose what the issue might be - that it dies when...

I'll check this too. Thank you.

The outer body of the carb may be dirty, but that doesn't impact the operation of the carb. The throttle and choke arms pivot freely... I visually inspected the intake manifold and all seems good. I'll check bolt tightness. I would think if my head gasket were the issue that the compression...

I tried for about an hour to get the emulsion tube out and couldn't get it to budge. The wider "base" of it slides up and down independently (though can't get it out) of the long/tall/thinner tube that goes all the way to top of venturi and that won't budge. The tip of the needle seemed fine...

SeaFoam to remove any water in fuel and clean out ...lines/carb? I use this machine a lot and it hasn't sat to get condensation/water in it and I don't have the fuel cap off in rain... I assume you're thinking the SeaFoam will clean out whatever gunk may be in the way - wherever that may be...

I swapped in new lines from the filter forward. Only one left is the long run from tank to filter... May have to do that next.

I did. Getting 120psi on both, and for a machine with 500+ hours, I think that's pretty good. Brand new NGK plugs and new coils... I believe my issue is the carb, specifically the main jet Nozzle. But this is the first kind I've seen that doesn't just protrude about 1/4" into the venturi...

I have. I put in new coils and plugs. Will reconfirm compression. With 500 hours I’m assuming anything north of 100 psi is good?

Agreed. And I already took it apart and cleaned everything I could. Oddly, can't get the Main Nozzle out. It goes up from the Main Jet, up into the venturi, and continues up into the "roof" of the venturi tube. Usually you can reach in with a screwdriver and press down on the protruding...

Well, tested old solenoid - it's working fine. Bought new one, installed, same exact issue. Must be carb?

That makes sense, or at least my notion that the solenoid was not pulling in, then out, then in etc. based on the choke. I'm assuming, with the solenoid "not" sucked in, still allowed enough gas to flow up into main jet when the choke door was closed because there was that much more suction...

Hilarious, (in that I wondered about the solenoid that is absatively under my bowl), but assumed that couldn't/wouldn't be it because it runs ...on choke. I thought the solenoid was an "all or nothing", in that by actuating up and into the main jet(?) - that center tube, that it was cutting off...

Hi all. I think I left part of my brain somewhere and can't find it. I've repaired 100s of small engine machines over the years, mostly resolving poor running conditions due to bad/dirty carbs. So when my dear Husqy riding lawn mower, with a 24horse twin Kawasaki engine, just up & quit the...

Ah, okay. I definitely brush hog uneven ground so will happily keep chains. Yes, it does have the tail wheel.

When I got my Ford 1700 tractor it came with the brush hog noted above, but no bracket for a 3 point hitch (see first image from a photo I found online). Mine has the 2 lower pins for the PTO arms and then 2 chains that get pinned to the 3 point hitch connector on the tractor.(see second...

I do not remember at this point. I’ll try to find it - maybe it’s in this thread?

Thanks Tom. I ordered parts # 10, 11 and gaskets. I think that should fix it

FYI. There were no gaskets on the carb when I got it so I found some like #26 and #12 and put them on there, but still have the 1/4" gap I'm noting.... :cool:

Hey Tom. I went out to bolt the carb/air filter etc. back up and am finding that the bolts that were on there originally are too long "as is" with just the carb and the air filter housing. Ironically, they seem to be too long by the thickness of that black plastic control.... Wondering if I...

Carb was disconnected. Engine sticker attached. Yes, throttle control levers “AutoWalk”

Pics

Sorry for the delay. Here's a few pics and a video ( ) that hopefully show what I"m talking about. Again, just needing to know how the carb connects to the choke assembly...

I pulled one of these home from the dump - had never seen a Honda engine on a Husqy. The choke setup isn’t setup correctly and I’m hoping someone can share a picture of how the choke connects to the carb. I can’t find a diagram that shows it - and it is a rather unique setup. Thank you. Jay

I have a JD LA175 and the throttle lever does nothing to actuate the throttle butterflies inside the carb, and my engine is racing way above normal RPMs (worried I'm going to blow my 26hp Briggs & Stratton engine). While taking off the Nikki carb, I believe I must've screwed something up, lost...

I don't. Here's more pics - with it being dark out, maybe it will stand out better where the other spring goes?

Found this listing on ebay that shows (I believe) my setup. I think it shows the governor & throttle linkage, and the 2 springs. I believe I have the larger spring...

My LA175 has been phenomenal, but was recently surging. I bought a new carb and after installing, it runs smooth as can be! But, the RPMs are a good bit higher than previously. I believe I've found the issue to be a missing spring on the governor linkage with the throttle. When I look on a...

Is this what you're referring to?

I gotta go find this “vacuum line”. Sounds like my culprit. Thx.

Sorry for my delay. Installed new oil pressure switch, have run it now 4 times without issue. Problem ostensibly solved. Thank you everyone.

Thanks tkcomer

Well it don’t get no easier than that, does it? Thank you JC

Sorry to have to ask but where is the Sending Unit on my ol' 1700?

New Sender, here I come. Thank you!!!

I understood pretty much everything you said, JC, especially at the end where you said it's likely the sender. If that's the case, then the sender is just failing (if I understand correctly): The light comes on when I turn the key to 'ignition on' When the machine starts up, the light goes off...

I hadn't thought of that. Stupid me: Do a good search for "oil pressure gauge" that has an actual "read out", analog or digital, and wire it in place instead of the idiot light?

Hi JC. Coming back to this original post topic of the "oil pressure" light flickering under load. Just to confirm, (I'm 99% sure but need to confirm), the idiot light in my tach/mph is for when the oil pressure is too low, correct? I just changed my oil with Rotella & new filter and made sure...

Thanks Duffer

Spindles are all one season old, maybe 2 at most. Could the drive pulley (at the clutch) need replacing I wonder?

Hah, thanks Gstrom. I know the routing like the back of me hand. That ain't the issue - but appreciate the reality check

I put a brand new belt on

I don't know when the belt is going to jump, so can't really video something.

Hi all, I may be resurrecting's an older post (below) when I had issues with the mower deck belt jumping off. Just like in that post, I think i've checked everything, from drive pulley under the motor, to the deck itself, all spindles are on the same plan, none are bent or lose. As noted in...

Thanks SO much, JC. And all. I’ll be doing the injector pump oil this week. So happy. Be safe and healthy yall.

SHE RUNS!!! It was the bleeding!!! Found that I had a service manual in the folder and it talked about another bleed screw below the inject fuel lines. Bled that and she fired right up. THANK YOU ALL.

Machine has 2031 hours. It was owned by my neighbor who I believe took impeccable care of it. When I got it about 8 years ago. I think I did a good job of annual maintenance; oil changes, hydro fluid check/update. I also pay incredible attention to how it is running and would address any...

Its a 1983. And I know anything is possible, (with respect to an engine wearing out), but, ....man - this machine was running great up until the last month or so. Can't believe it would be caput now. But again, anything is possible

Thank you, JC. That may be where I'm at. I have fuel seeping out of air bleed screws by fuel filter (even without cranking engine) but with both fuel lines disconnected at injectors, no fuel is coming out. Weird that machine was starting effortlessly yesterday and running pretty well overall...

Thank you, JC. That may be where I'm at. I have fuel seeping out of air bleed screws by fuel filter (even without cranking engine) but with both fuel lines disconnected at injectors, no fuel is coming out. Weird that machine was starting effortlessly yesterday and running pretty well overall...

So I believe I'm catching on; (thanks guys!). In my pic here, am I correct that the entirety of the device shown is the INJECTOR and the red arrows are pointing to the "back plate" that, if removed, I'd see/expose the governor? Someone posted a video with a clear plastic plate in place of the...

I do not believe I have changed this oil, in the injector pump. But, I do think I may be onto the issue with my 1700: I checked the fuel filter, even though I just put a new one in about 15 hours ago, the plastic cup around it was cloudy and when I took it off, there was a fair amount of crap...

Thank you all. The oil and filter were changed about 35 hours ago. Relatively "new". Oil level is good. I'm thinking, in addition to the other post of I have where rpms are lower than normal after heat up and machine losing power after 10-15 minutes that I might have governor issue. I will...

I'm out there brush-hogging and noticing, after 10-15 mins that the oil - low pressure light on my odometer is flickering/glowing coming on when really under load and then goes off when rpms climb back up. I checked oil level before use and it was good. Any thoughts? Normal?? Thank you, Jay

I usually bring it up just under the "PTO" icon around the 2500 rpm range.

Thanks JC (as always). I bled the fuel lines and it seems to be running ...well(?). Still feels like the rpms aren't audibly as high as I recall, but, the tachometer says I'm running at the proper rate. I'll keep an eye on things, but, thanks again.

Seemingly overnight, my awesome 1700: Had a harder time than normal starting Actually seemed to 'catch' and run okay, but, just wouldn't get it's idle or rpms up It surged for a minute or two and then ultimately ran ...okay. I've got the brush hog on but not slogging through anything crazy or...

Great stuff, Mssr. Plum! Thank you.

Ah, good ol' Taryl. Very helpful videos - painful sideshow BS (IMHO). Maybe my buddy was onto something with replacing the fuel line, as the surging was going on pre-carb removal & clean and post. And I cleaned the mating surfaces and new gaskets before reinstall so don't think I've got leak...

Air being moved around flywheel? Never heard of that. And you suggest cleaning the flywheel??

Hi all. I work on a lot of small engine equipment, and am often stumped by "surging". Often times, carburetors need a good cleaning, or swapping, and that resolves the issue. But on my LA 175, with 250 hours, I recently removed carb and cleaned it ...pretty thoroughly. (Not saying I'm the...

Well, I think from everything I've learned, there's certainly no harm in draining and replacing the fluid. Obviously, you gotta remove the tranny from the machine and that's a little work. But, a fresh bath of new fluid should help it live a long healthy life. If I could impart one thing that...

Hah. Yes I dooooo. Thank you. So happy.

GREAT UPDATE: IT'S WORKING ....VERY WELL!!! I don't know what the heck I did, other than remove the tranny, bring it back on the bench, checked the fluid level again (just where it was when I first topped it off after rebuild). I did spin/turn the splined shaft of the tranny again (that the...

Thanks. Someone else posted his complete rebuild earlier in this thread. I watched it the last time I rebuilt my TT tranny and did again for this one. Wish he didn't do the plastic teeth or hair, but, whatever. I knows what he's doing. Very helpful

Thanks. I did drain it. But based on all the metal filings on the magnets - I rebuilt it. But something went wrong when I put it back together; or I assume something went wrong. Because it sure isn't working. Whining... Trying to figure out what to do.

That's the tiny pin that allows the machine to free wheel. I did put it back, with a little grease on it to make sure it did not move...

UPDATE: Dropped the transmission and checked oil level - spot on right where it was when I topped it on the bench. Is there any chance that a TINY bit too much fluid in the tranny could cause this problem? Instead of being 3/4" below the rim of the fill hole, it's 1/2"... I can't imagine...

Hi Jaxs. I just went back through and read all 6 pages of this thread and don't see anywhere where I said anything about a "mysterious c-clip that I found on the floor". Are you possibly referring to a different post or different person?

I don’t. (Memory must be gettin dusty). I’ll have to go back through and find it.

Okay, I think i follow. "Kick and cuss" as in the machine might have bucked (jumped violently forward or back)? Not sure what I'd email TT, other than my post a few entries ago with my update that "she don't work". Maybe I'll try that. I have a feeling it's going to be: remove transmission...

Hi Tomm. Not entirely sure what you mean, "kicking or cussing". The machine didn't move or even feel like it was attempting to move. Keys are in slots of axles with wheels - check!! No change when pulling/releasing bypass valve; (I assume this is the "free wheeling" lever at the very rear of...

UPDATE: She no work. I topped off oil level to about 3/4" below fill line with brand new TT fluid they sent me. I spun the splined shaft 50 times, and the axles, to try and circulate fluid while it was on the bench. Installed on machine and it whines noticeably, right from the get go. Will...

Thanks a ton, Jaxs on both my TT rebuild and the situation on my Husqy. Very curious how TT designed them the way they did - i.e. no checking or -refilling. Some very cool recommendations on the mowing operation of my Husqy. I do a ton of small engine repair work and had never heard of the...

Thank you. So, if I load it back on machine and simply run it, this will likely bleed the air out and it will likely/possibly drive?

First of all, thank you to everyone who chimed in. Quick update that I did first drain the oil and was considering loading the transmission back into the machine to see how she did (and if it was an improvement, that might have been just fine as the machine would run a good 20 minutes before...

Hah. I figured. I drained and changed oil. May load it back up and try it ….or order full repair and wait and just rebuild. Thanks Tom

Thank you. I think this sheds lights on the $64k question: whether to rebuild or not to rebuild (just flush oil and refill). Trying the latter but prepared for the former. Given the filings, I’m fully expecting rebuild. But as commented previously, I’ll have a newly rebuilt Tranny after that.

I’m 99% sure you’re correct that the K66 Is stronger but if I recall correctly, it runs backwards to our machines. So to go forward, you would (under current operation of your machine) tell it to go backwards.

Thanks. I watched this before I did my Husqy. Goofy distraction with acting, but, useful tech tips

Thanks oldnslo. I'll play with choke on Husqy when I engage PTO - just weird that the JD doesn't need such. Making me ...kinda feeling less-than-thrilled with my Husqy, which up until now I've LOVED!!!! I still think I'll get new plugs and maybe even new coils and see if that solves it. If...

Well, the minute you tell folks, 'there ain't much of any of those things' someone goes out and finds an example of the opposing viewpoint. I believe jgayman was saying that, 'most lawnmowers come with HST trannies, not geared' and to that, I agree 100%. I fix 100s of lawnmowers and have never...

Well, for the Husqy, the only time I go to engage the mower deck - to mow the grass - is when it's "warm"; 60 degrees or above. Once everything on the machine "gets warmed up" - used 5 to 10 minutes or so - then everything seems to work normally, or as one would expect. I will say though...

My Husqvarna (bought in 2011) was around 350 hours when it started whining and loosing power. I towed a cart often and carried heavy loads semi often and live on a hilly terrain. I limped it along for almost 3 years before rebuilding it. This JD has about 250 on it. I got it from a client (I...

Thanks so much, Tom. Exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for. One question, based on my order last night of the Tuff Torq 5W50… Do I need to use “Tuff Torq” 15W50 or 20W50? And what’s the thinking on going to those higher viscosities? How does that help the transmission operate better...

Thank you, jgayman. I appreciate your perspective(s) on hydro and geared transmissions and how well your 175 performed since '88. But, (without sounding like a jerk), no one is answering my question, and obviously no one has a crystal ball, but: Given the stated operation, of losing maybe 50%...

Okay. I wasn't trying to debate the value of different types of machines with different types of transmissions. I'm asking, (with the understanding that I'm not selling the machine), how best to approach fixing THIS machine with the transmission in it.

I bought something like this for my Husqy: https://onthewayoutdoor.com/products/tuff-torque-1a646099591-genuine-oem-repair-kit-k46?variant=42195719880961&gclid=CjwKCAjw0a-SBhBkEiwApljU0hx2OHU21I1OQjpgXZy9lS7GSThoy2cQbpuDj5M3xxUM3WwhgZWaxBoCelEQAvD_BwE

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean. Buy a rebuilt kit? Don't think it comes with gears or shift lever - or at least my last rebuild kit didn't include these things.

As many of us know, these Tuff Torq transmissions lose power over time. On my Husqvarna LGT 24K54, it lost virtually all power to climb the slightest of inclines after only 10-15 mins of use. I spent the $400+ and bought the rebuild kit from TT and ...rebuilt it, added new fluid and...

Thanks JC!!!! Ready to load up the backhoe and do a little trench digging before the snow flies 😎

Good morning, JC; all. The overall maintenance work is going pretty well. New fuel filter and cup, bled fuel lines. Drained/cleaned air filter (oil dish). Changed engine oil and filter. Replaced all hyrdraulic lines, new control valve, and fluid, which included rear axle/differential. Had...

I got a lot done today: Drained hydraulic fluid from the drain plug under transmission, rear axle/differential, and where the big pipe comes into the hydraulic filter. Filter wasn’t too dirty nor was it that bad in the belly of the hydraulic reservoir where the filter sits. (Seemed like more...

Great stuff, JC. Love the vacuum adaptation - I'll do just that. Forgive me, brother, but what the heck is a "diffy"? Differntial? Still ordering parts. Don't want to open up the plumbing to the filter ("screen" as you call it) until I have the new gaskets to seal it all back up. Will...

Wowsers, glad you brought this stuff up. I keep saying "Hydro" short for "Hydraulic lines" & such. I don't know if it has a hydro static transmission. How can I tell. (Never been much of a tranny guy). I have an '83 4WD and an oil air filter. Never seen one before and sadly, ain't checked...

That's awesome. Yeah, I'm a big fan of helping friends - 'cause I love fixing machines. Plus, then you have a fleet of chums who're happy to chip in and lend a hand when you need it. I know I'll get there - a lot of this is "first time" stuff. Doing all the hydro lines seemed straight...

Actually, the local OReilley Auto Parts ordered me 3 !!! So many things to do :-)

Hah. The Wix 51512 filter is out of stock on Amazon, OReilly Auto.... Looks like it's on some smaller sites - I just usually like going with larger businesses.... Same deal on the gaskets for the hydro filter. Yeeesh

Thanks JC!!!! Now just feel free to sliiiiiiide right up on to here to Massatucky from Kansas and help me remove/clean my Hydro filter :ROFLMAO: . Just put in the new lines and about to drain fluid. Just watched video on the filter removal/clean --- woohoo. Fun. Time to order gaskets...

Continuing my big "tune up" maintenance, and today is oil change day, but not finding this oil filter noted above. A regional tractor parts shop says there's a New Holland number (but they didn't want to give out the number and for $38 (shipped) I thought I'd see if anyone here knows where I...

Sorry for any confusion. My hoses have male ends. Obviously, those male ends thread into female ends/connectors. When I posted above about realizing that in the overall connections, that where the hydro hose connects to the ...plumbing of the tractor, there is a female connector that spins...

I figured out that there are "free spinning" ends/connectors (female) that will rotate as I loosen the connections at both ends of the hose(s). Sorry I didn't notice that when I first posted. Other question: I bought a new 2-spool, 4 valve, control valve that has different size female...

I'll give that a try and if it doesn't work, will share more details. Thanks Tomplum

Thanks. Weird that that's the "answer". I wonder what the difference is on the wiring harness of the TS 348D and my LGT 24K54... I couldn't find it in the wiring diagrams. (At least she's running now).

Hi all, I'm about to replace many of the hydro hoses on my Ford 1700 and, especially on the shorter ones, am noticing that when I try to loosen the securing threads ...the hose resists mightily; getting all coiled and kinked. This may not be that big a deal when taking off the old, as they're...

I found a video of a "cheat", to stuff 4 toothpicks into the wiring harness below the seat. It works, but, ...frustrating that I couldn't figure out the proper resolution. I can't take the old switch out of the old sit - it physically won't fit. I bought a "high end", Husqvarna seat - one that...

That all sounds Spot On to me. I was honestly trying to figure: How does the seat know when I (or something more than …50lbs) am sitting on the seat. I will see if I can swap switches. Thank you. Jay

I bought a nicer, taller seat with armrests for my Husqvarna riding mower. When I sit down, starts right up, but, as soon as I release the brake, it turns off. I assume the mower doesn't realize I'm sitting on it, so it cuts off. It's a 4 wire connection, both from my old seat and on the new...

Now I'm really confused. The gear and the nut can't be locked together, else the starter would eat itself when the gear slammed into the flywheel. Maybe the armature/starter is just, as I said initially, lost it's ...umph and can't spin fast/hard enough to throw the nut UP into the gear, (and...

Okay, I still need some info. As mentioned, my pinion gear looks fine, but, it separated from the "nut" (part no 92210 on the Kawasaki parts list/site - below). So I figured, I'll just buy a new 'setup', but, they are sold separately, (odd that mine did not have the middle "seal", part no...

Update: The pinion gear itself separated from the "base" with the threads inside it. It would seem that I just get a new pinion gear WITH the threaded inner diameter!!! Thanks all.

One additional element here: The 'cap' at the top of the gear shaft (with red arrow in pic) keeps spinning while the pinion gear stuck in the flywheel. That tells me that the inner side of the pinion gear is "stripped". The cap should spin/rotate at the same rate as the gear, shouldn't it...

I think the gear looks good. Just weird that it spins when I turn key, but, when the gear gets up to the flywheel, it just stops - though I can hear the starter motor "trying" to turn the flywheel. I thought battery might be tired, so charged it for hours, even left the charger on and tried...

Hi folks, My starter has been slowly losing it's ability to start my riding mower. Sometimes it would start the machine immediately, other times I'd hear it spinning with the pinion gear not "up" into flywheel, but, after backing off the key and trying again, it would start right up. This...

Thanks swines, but, it turned out to be a bad connection between POS/NEG cables and the poles on the battery. Cleaned and all is fine now. Jay

You’re all AWESOME. I got it running - cleaned the heck out of the connecting terminals on the battery itself and the cables. Put some dielectric grease in there too. Charged up battery and, Voila. Thank you!!!!

Thank you.

No. Dry as a bone. As it was yesterday in the bright sunshine with the same "scenario" going on :)

Thanks RustyA. Are you thinking bad ground at the battery, the starter, or some other ground? I started typing a question back to JayDee325, but, as I did - a little light went off over my head shining a light on my stupidity. The question was: Why am I getting a full 12.5 at the starter...

I'll charge the battery as you mention. Thank you.

It WAS that little igniter!!!! Put new one in and she ran immediately. Thanks TomPlum/ALL!!!!

Working on this JD 285 and it won't start. Has new battery, fully charged - showing 12.5v. When I turn the key, I hear fast-paced 'clicking'. Doesn't sound like typical solenoid clicking, but, faster. Sounds like it's coming from up above the battery, behind the dashboard guages. Very...

The first multimeter I bought is an AstroAI DT132A. The second one is an AM33D

Thanks LittleBill. I found the Igniter and tested it (as shown on some other site) and mine appears caput. As tomplum suggested, these are known to be a weak point, so I've ordered one and ...fingers crossed that it will solve my probs. Thanks again - everyone. Will report back on findings...

Thank you. I'll have to confirm the exact model of the coil itself - the place I bought it, "Parts Run" only shows their part number. I researched exactly what that engine called for, searched for THAT part number, and bought the one that said it fit the spec.... Will do the other test(s) you...

That looks just like the one I bought; ( Amazon.com: PARTSRUN 21121-2008 New Ignition Coil for John Deere AM101065 Replace Kawasaki FB460V FC400V Engine 211212008,ZF126-1: Garden & Outdoor ). Okay on grounding (so much for what the other person prescribed - which now makes complete sense in...

Hah, I JUST bought this ...simpler/easier to use Astro multimeter. Spent an hour or two with the "more sophisticated" one and could NOT figure it out. Thanks LittleBill

Yep. Garbage/confusing/unintelligible. I set the range select knob to the 'resistance' graphic of the ohm/something/arrow&plus/speaker(sound). Then it says to "Set the "Select" button to ___ range" where the same graphic is. There is no such setting when scrolling through the "Select"...

Yessir. No change. After reading Tomplum's comment, I took of the igniter and tested it and it failed the test. Ordered another for $9 and change - crossing fingers that that will do it. I need to get better at testing ignition coils, (sadly, I don't know how to 'set' my new AstroA1...

I added a ground strap, (tested/confirmed ground), with no impact. Thanks though.