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Thanks. Do you know what they would be for 3/8 couplers? I found out that my other ones are that size.

The Rotella HD is hydraulic fluid. It was previously called Donax TD. That alone mostly answers my question since that is the name the manual references. I just wasn't sure if it just a rebrand or if something has changed with the formulation.

I've been using the Rotella T6 for my engine oil in my Kioti DK6010HSE. I'm at my 400hrs and need to replace all the hydraulic fluid now. The manual recommends the following Daedong: UTF55 or equivalent fluid oil Equivalent options include: Shell: Donax-TD ExxonMobil: Mobilfluid 424 or Exxon...

Thanks. I have a pretty big o-ring kit and thought I might find a replacement in there. Of course, the o-ring might not be made of the right material for this application

Do you happen to know the size o-ring. I believe I have 1/2 ISO couplers?

Question. I notice the my ag couplers are leaking on my grapples and at my loader. I've cleaned them up before and tested and didn't se a leak but by the end of a long day running the tractor I am seeing leaks in both locations. Is the heat or the work I am putting them through causing the leak...

They make tanks that are H-20 rated which I believe can handle wheel loads up to 16K lbs but you have to specify that when you order. That being said, it's probably not a common thing for residential homes especially since the cost is nearly double.

I just don't get the over complication of this subject. Our bodies, typically, have the ability to adapt to UV. You can't do it all at once and if you are in a situation where you are going to have prolonged sun exposure, before 'training' for it then maybe mineral based sunscreen would be wise...

One thing that is often overlooked is that the Vitamin D you get from food or supplements is not the same as the Vitamin D you produce with sun exposure. Same argument for Omega 3 from supplements. Not the same as the Omega - 3 you get from eating seafood.

Where can I find instruction on how to replace them?

Finally got over to the land and greased up the tractor. Still got clunking. I am almost certain it has to do with with cab and the tractor. Can those rubber bushings go bad or fail?

That is on the list along with the greasing for sure. Thanks

Stop and think about it. Our ancestors grew up and evolved in nature. No sunscreen. No sunglasses. Even no clothing or little clothing. The prevalence of cancer these days is much higher. Why? Why do we incidences of skin cancer in people that do not go out in the sun at all? It's a story of...

I haven't been back to the property to grease yet. Probably today or this weekend. Question about the amount of grease fro the front axel. How do you know you have enough put in? With the FEL it is obvious because it oozes out around the joints.

Will do and will report back

I was up under my DK6010 this weekend, troubleshooting a problem, when I notice that it looks like I have some type of oil leak out the side of the tank? I couldn't tell exactly where the leak was happening but I noticed a wire coming out the side that was caked with oil and dirt. What would be...

Hmmm. I don't recall when I last greased but I'll do that. Would that cause the clunking that can be heard and felt in the cab? It's only heard when I go over bumps or move the loader up and down quickly enough that it jerks.bounces the tractor.

I was recently driving around in my DK6010. All of a sudden I started hearing and feeling a clunk. I got up under the tractor and found a stick lodged in there and I thought that might have been it. No luck. I drove it around some more and noticed that the clunking would happen as I hit bumps...

I found out, this weekend, that I left a couple of the plastic gas cans on my property, filled with diesel. They had the caps on and were under a tarp but I am concerned for 2 reasons. 1. The diesel is probably somewhere between 6-8 months old 2. Could it be contaminated with water in those...

I didn't but probably should have. I'll keep an eye out for leaks and replace since I have one of those o-ring kits from Harbor Freight

The ground does slope from the high end of the driveway to the low end naturally and all the way to the back of the property. That is still the case unless we back fill some of that area which we might. Even backfilled there should still be a slope. One of my thoughts, that wouldn't involve a...

I would think that is too low though. If the bottom of that dip is 7' lower than level with the rest of the driveway, and I already have material to either side, I would think I'd need to be at least a couple feet higher wouldn't I to keep the culvert fro being buried? Or maybe you are thinking...

What were the issues you had doing it yourself? I've got nearly the entire drive, minus the dip area, level down to the non-organics. All measured with a rotary laser. I am curious what a professional would do differently?

Good to hear. I've been looking into renting a dump truck and pick the stuff up myself. But 23 loads is quite a few to get done in one day. If I could get 23 loads done that would probably save me $1300-$1500 if the rental is $800/day. Of course it would be less than 23 loads is I don't go with...

Thanks. What would you back fill with in this scenario? I do have some non-organic material that I could use. Would you back fill some of the dip first and then the pipe followed by more fill and then the the bank run gravel?

How far below the surface of the finished driveway should the to of the culvert be?

Just went for it. The existing fittings didn't have sealant. There was also an o-ring inside so i think I'm good with just tightening. Thanks everyone

I would agree the dip looks wet . It's a thin layer from runoff. Just under that bit of mud is non-organic material. I stripped it down that far which is why there is even that large of a dip. Here are some other images I just took today. Now that I looked at it again I am thinking it might need...

Not sure how well these can be seen in this picture but these are the two fittings.

Swapping out the upper cylinder on my Kioti DK6010SE. Curious if those hydraulic hoses sealant or not.

-4 bank run gravel is a mix of sand and gravel up to 4"

So this sounds like a reasonable quote. There is a quary, further away, has cheaper material but their per truck cost is something like $220.

Yep. Gave them what I was looking for. This is the full quote: What I can tell you is if your driveway is 600'Lx12'W and your garage area is 38'Lx55'W and you want 1' Depth of road base (4"minus bank run gravel) you would need 412CY of material. 412cy (4" minus bank run gravel) x $15.00 =...

Exchanged emails with a local pit and they gave me a quote for 1' of -4 bank run gravel. Isn't 1' a bit much?

Thanks. I definitely removed 1' in some areas. That 7' dip I removed more because we had filled in with small wood cutoffs, bushes and loam. That would have been a disaster if we left that there. I was thinking that I would take some of the less organic soil I pulled out, to get it level, and...

This would be for the entire driveway. No supporting walls needed with maybe the exception of the 7' dip. As for sand bank run sand is the cheapest fill in my area. $7.50 per cubic yard. Straight sand is another $.50 per cubic yard. Then it jumps to $11 for -4 bank run gravel which has been...

I thought about runoff drains but I was thinking along the lines of perforated pipe along the edges that empty into the ditch in the front or send it to an underground shallow well for irrigation. What materials did you use on top of the fabric for your driveway?

Thanks for the feedback. The driveway doesn't have to be perfectly level but that dip is pretty significant so it would need to be filled some. IU was leaning towards level especially for large trucks that are bringing building supplies. At some point we might have a large horse trailer and I...

Not a bad guess. My math has it at closer to 600' of driveway at 12' wide. Entrance into the property is closer to 20' wide. Then we have a 55x38 "pad" in front of the garage that would also be the same material as the driveway although I have considered going with concrete. Not sure if that...

For #3 that is essentially what I was thinking. The forms would be set up and I would back fill on the outside. Once I get driveway materials in and compacted I might attempt to remove the forms or maybe just leave them. As for the geocell it was an idea. Part of it is stability and durability...

Surprised there is no feedback. Better place to ask something like this?

I am planning a gravel driveway for a new build and have a few questions since I've never had a gravel driveway before. I have started on some preliminary work which I think is necessary. so far I've scraped all the organic materials from the entire driveway. In some places I am as much as 12...

Thanks

Thanks. I called around and the cheapest I found was $400 for a weld on-site. Probably could have found it cheaper but decided to go with a new cylinder for $485. Plus I'll have spare parts if I have a cylinder failure or I could sell it. Someone might be interested.

Any ideas what something like this would cost to get the welding done?

Thanks! I will probably have a professional fix it then since I've never welded a single thing in my life.

Thanks. This is the info I was hoping to get.

Was moving some rocks today when all of a sudden I saw my loader cylinder dangling. Looks like a break at the weld. I am thinking this can just be repaired. Is that the case or do I need to buy a replacement?

I'll need to go check. It sounds like you are thinking this wouldn't be good for any of the projects i listed because it is light weight?

I came across this trailer frame near me and was thinking that I might get it. I'm considering converting it into a mobile office, equipment trailer or a dump trailer. Will this work? Does it look in good enough shape? What should I look out for before buying it? What improvements would need to...

I haven't but I've run a tiller that nearly rattled my teeth out so I don't doubt it is a workout.

FYI, my DK has filled tires and I can even even switch over to the grapple and cart around a large boulder or log if that gets me more compaction.

Yes. Rentals up in this area are crazy. I've watched recent YouTube videos where people were renting for half the price(might be a bit of an exaggeration). As for the plate compactor I was only thinking of buying because there is a 400 ft driveway that needs compacting when it goes in, the...

You mentioned a plate compactor in your post. Would that be referring to something like this? I could see using this in multiple applications. Driveway and pads for storage shed, portable timber mill, etc... https://www.harborfreight.com/7-hp-plate-compactor-with-wheel-kit-70167.html

Great information! We don't plan on building anything in that area. It's a front yard that will be flat and then gently slope down and then back up to some fields. We are actually thinking we want to keep some slope to channel water down and away from the house and fields to an area about 100'...

I think I get the stair steps approach. Like this rough drawing I put together? What type of fill would you use? Sprinklers is tough since there is no water on the land at the moment. Or something like this if I want to extend the slope

From old test pit reports it looks like it is fine to medium sand and sandy loam. That is only 6 inches down

Not really. Not for a tractor

Outside of the foundation. For example, in front of where the house will be we would like a flat front yard. At the moment it's slopes. I'd say between 15-30 degrees. Ill have to measure it to be sure. Should the organic material be scrapped off and then filled and compacted with clean backfill...

Yes. Plenty of large rocks but those are being saved for rock walls and stepped retaining walls on both sides of the walkout

I haven't put a laser on it yet to get an idea of the drop from the highest point we want to fill too and the bottom of the slope. I'm thinking it might be in the area of 6-8 ft if we want to flatten everything out which we really don't have too. I need to build up the bottom of the slope so I...

I'm working on a new home build which is on a slope. It's going to have a walkout basement so part of the slope is taking care of but the rest I need to backfill. Trying to figure out what is the best approach to do this. Do I need to remove the organic material off the top before adding in fill...

Ok. That makes sense. I guess i went down the path of a roller thinking of steam rollers but those are probably more appropriate for pavement I guess. I thought of buying a Harbor Freight plate compactor but that seems time consuming as well although probably still useful for compacting the...

Wouldn't that be fairly time consuming? I imagine you still need to do it in lifts. I imagine the depth of those lifts would also be dependednt on the amount of weight that can be applied right?

I have some land where we have a slope that we need to back fill to get up to level with the grade around the house to extend the usable area. I'm thinking I am going to need to add soil in lifts and do some compaction so the new fill doesn't just slough off. Buying or renting something seems...

I actually didn't Good catch. What is the significance of that?

Never thought about that before I bought it.

I am. Harbor Freight Apex 12,000 lb

Hmm. Never thought of that. Problem is I already sunk the money into this one. I guess I could potentially resell it but it's brand new so I am sure I would lose money on the deal.

I'm not certain what battery I have on the tractor. It's a Kiot DK6010. I'll have to check next time I get over to the property it is on.

Completely forgot I posted this question. It's a Harbor Freight 12,000 lb APEX with synthetic rope. I see using it for multiple things. One is that I am clearing land and many of the trees and underbrush is in areas where the tractor just can't go. Too many boulders and such. One of the other...

This is probably somewhat of a newb question. I have a Harbor Freight winch and was originally thinking I'd have to attach it to the back with a towing receiver or some configuration like that. Then I noticed the front of my tractor has this plate on the front as shown in the image below. Can a...

It's not throwing a belt but the blade

They are not the same type of belt.

What did you use for a search term? I don't get any results. At least nothing that seams relevant.

Sorry. There is a drive side for the mill (HM130 MAX). I'm talking about the opposite side. See image below As for blades I did change to a new one. Tensioned to 25lbs of torque. Still jumped.

I'm trying to find a reasonably priced way of getting spare keys for my tractor. The dealership sells them for $22 a pair(plus a 40 minute drive both directions). One parts store online says I need part #TG35-0114A (for $40) but a search on Google tends to bring up the exact OEM replacement...

Quick question about about blade jumping. I had torqued the blade once by moving a log and not withdrawing the blade. Since then, no matter how I adjusted things, the blade would jump. I discovered yesterday, after hours of checking and adjusting of every part, that the follow belt was...

I found the part numbers in my manual. The place i bought my filter kit from was able to look up my tractor and confirm which kit to buy

Just doing it by the manual's maintenance schedule

I'm not sure if this the same for either tractors or if it even works. In the comments of one of the YouTube channels doing the 200hr service they mentioned using the oil plug to thread into the hydraulic port in place of the breather cap. This is for a Kioti. I'm not sure if that works or is...

For my Kioti DK6010SE i read on one YouTube video that someone just used the engine oil cap and screwed that in in place of the breather cap. That would old effectively create a vacuum too?

Thanks for all the feedback everyone!

I'll probably do that in the future. It's mostly land clearing right now and in the winter it'll be moving logs for milling. Looks like after my 250 hr oil change I only need to change the oil yearly although i suspect it is probably wide to change it after a certain number of hours too. I guess...

Great. FYI. Am I reading this right that the t6 does the same job as the CK4

Would 15W40 weight t6 be fine?

A Rotella 15W40 should be fine? Average temps usually don't get lower than the teens and typically an average high in the high 70's low 80's

Got ya. Looks like the Rotella is a CJ I believe which appears to meet their standards. Any suggestions on a CK classification oil? I'm reading 0W-40 would be best although that is not a weight that is list. In fact, neither is 5W-40

I'm not sure I understand "Stick with a CK though for the emissions.". I'm a first time tractor owner and this is all new. Ultimately, I want to put good oil in my machine so I can run it as long as possible especially since I tend to run it pretty hard.

What are your thoughts about using Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic SAE 5W-40? Seems to be popular and good quality.

This has probably has been asked dozens of times with a different model but I am going to ask anyways. I have a Kioti DK6010SE in need of an oil change. What oil is recommended. The manual lists: Tier2 or 3 (Without dpf) - ApI Ch grade above Tier4 (With dpf) - ApI CJ grade above SAE 10W30...

I'll need to find that./

That is an option although building one that can be used more than once and not bound by some rental time limit is attractive. I've rented enough equipment to know that you always need 'one more day' at the end of the rental period which is probably more like several more days.

I could certainly build something. I would imagine it would be cheaper. 3PH of FEL. Doesn't matter to me.

I'm looking for a telescoping boom pole to put up trusses on a garage and shed or some other tool that would do the job. Any suggestions?

I'm looking at buying a used excavator. It'll likely be an older, high hour excavator since I don't have a large budget. What should I look for? Are there any particular repairs I should stay away from? Any other telltale signs of an excavator that hasn't been taking care of?

That was a thought. A more expensive option but an option nonetheless.

I have a Kioti DK6010SE Cab and man is is it filled with dust and dirt. What is the best way to clean out the cab? What about the tractor as a whole. Can I pressure wash it without damaging anything?

I have a backhoe for my Kioti DK6010. It currently has a mechanical thumb which I find pretty limiting. I am exploring adding a hydraulic thumb so I can do things like build rock walls with it. Any suggestions?

Turned out that I must have run over something, like a stump, and crushed something that was choking off gas flow.

Yeah. We reached out to the dealer and one person thinks it might be fuel related. They are going to pick it up. I was half hoping it was something I could fix so I could keep on working.

Hi all. My DK6010 has been a real workhorse since I got it. I got it with something like 36 hours on it and I've recently topped 200hrs. Yesterday I ran into a problem. It ran ok and then started running rough. Shortly after that it sputtered and died. I have CEL light on on the dashboard. I...

I have a Kioti DK601 and I'm considering buying a hydraulic top link. I'm looking for recommendations around brand, size, etc. Whatever is needed to make the decision. Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks. So you have a farm policy and not a inland marine policy? Who is your provider. Perhaps they service my area.

$300 total or $300/month?

Where did you get this from? Are you talking about Inland Marine Insurance?

Probably should note that the equipment is on a property we are working on clearing and not at our current home.

When I bought my Kioti DK6010 part of the financing included the insurance. After nearly a year of paying on the tractor I am wondering if that is actually the best way to go. It only covers the tractor and attachments I bought from Kioti. I have since bought other attachements and have a mill...

That is what I was thinking. Maybe expansion and contraction going from Winter to Spring loosened things up as well.

Brake cleaner?

I know I used Apache High Pressure Hydraulic Thread Sealant on some of the connections but I don't recall which one. Regardless I have the connections leaking at the attachment and where those hoses tie into the connecting hoses for the 3rd function. What do I need to do to troubleshoot? Is...

Pioneer style would be NPT then I believe correct?

Kioti DK6010 and it was the Kioti 3rd function kit not the W. R. Long kit. Looks like when I bough my grapple I needed to let them couple the coupler style. It was 1/2 inch ag style or parker 66 style according to me research at the time.

I don't recall what fittings were on both ends of the hoses. I know I did a lot of research before hooking everything up. That being said is it just best to replace them all? Or maybe I just need to crank down on them a bit first and see if that resolves the issue?

I added a 3rd function kit to my tractor and it leaks on both ends where the hoses run to the attachment to where they tie into the hose that run to the 3rd function housing. I recall using thread sealant somewhere along the path but I don't recall exactly. Does it make sense to use thread...

That was it. It wasn't in neutral. Thanks so much for all the help everyone!

These are my three point hitch controls. The yellow knob is what I use for the PTO

Yes they do. That's where my backhoe hoses were attached

Sure thing. Thanks.

Hmm. When the dealer put on the backhoe they didn't give me any hose. I don't recall there being a hose on there either before I got the backhoe and the three-point work fine.

I haven't been able to find any information on how to do that or if that needs to be done. Every video I've watched doesn't show any kind of reconnection hoses.

Not sure if this is related but when I start the tractor is sometimes won't throttle up until I move the hydraulics on the front. Then it lets me throttle up the tractor

My Kioti DK 6010 3-point hitch is not going up or down. Thought it might be low hydraulic fluid but I just filled it up and it still doesn't move. The valve under the seat is fully open so it's not that. I had just taken the backhoe off when I discovered that this wasn't working. Any ideas?

What would/could be the downside of running it in the tractor for a couple at days and then swapping it out besides losing $70 on the Supertech?

Will Will the Supertech work?

Only stuff that seems to be in stock anywhere immediately is Supertech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission fluid at Walmart. Think that will be ok?

Been looking for hydraulic fluids for my DK6010. The manual Daedong UTF55 or equivalent such as, Mobifluid 424, Shell donax-Td, Exxon hydraul 560 or BP Tractran UTh. None of these are in the shelves locally. Would Tractor Supply's Universal work or maybe another brand?

Haven't seen it yet. I'll have to check it out

Got my EA attachments this past Friday. Carrier banged them up a bit so there were many areas with paint chips. I have to say I am pretty shocked how thin and fragile the pain job is. Wan't expecting that at all. I've beat the heck out of my tractor and I am still hard pressed to find a scratch...

Ah. Yes. I've thought about building a solar kiln but the budget isn't there for that yet. I was thinking more of a shed for air drying buy I might go this route. Considering a barn build come springtime.

Anyone have some good plans for a drying shed? I am starting to build one and have an idea in mind but I am open to seeing what other options folks have come up with.

Dealer sent me the manual. No mention of sealant and no description as to what types of threads.

Most likely this would be where the hose connector is going into the pioneer couplers like the guy did in the video at minute 21:40 and 22:40?

Solvent like brake cleaner fluid?

I assume this is something I could probably pick up at a local Tractor Supply store. Maybe at a Home Depot or Lowes? Any particular brand? I also assume that the threads need to be cleaned off before applying the the thread fluid. Any particular procedure to do this? Sorry for all the...

Installed my DKA144 3rd function valve kit per the instructions and I have leaks. The directions say noting about using teflon tape or threadlock. I have leaks however. Got the hoses and couples threaded together pretty tight. Not really sure what is going on though. Was I supposed to use some...

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I've been tarping it while the deal waits for the parts to come in.

Hmmm. This is a Kioti DK6010SE

This might be a completely ridiculous question. But honestly I never thought of it until I busted out the window on my cab. I'm assuming that the underlying tractor is the same as a tractor with ROPs and can be exposed to the weather without worry. Of course there's the issue of a wet seat and...

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but since we're on the topic of sawmills when I roll my Mill down the track where the two sections meet there's a slight bump we're the one section is probably less than an 18th higher. Is that going to cause problems?

It's a temp for now to start milling the structural lumber for a milling shed.

What size is your track?

Are you using the feet? Wouldn't the cross 4x4's need to be where the feet are?

I need to change this up I am sure.

I have a 12K lb Harbor Freight winch. I see there is a towbar adapter to attach one of the many winch mounting plates out there. Quest is what is the best way to get power to that winch?

Yeah. I was thinking that after seeing image after image with folks having their mills set up that way. I'll need some more cinder blocks and potentially more lumber. 4x4 are still a bit narrow I think. This is a temp setup which is fairly central to the property. I'm hoping to get it up on a...

Need a little advice on this setup. What I have are cinder blocks with 4x4 pressure treated lumber on it. Originally this was all going to be on the grounds but I decided to elevate it. Thought it might be adequate but I am questioning what this is going to be like with the saw head on it since...

We talk a lot about grapples here. Thoughts on other attachments? Specifically box blades and landscape rakes?

Very true.

Probably true in most circumstances. I have to consider what the delay means for getting jobs done that need to be done now or at least soon. Paying someone is one option. Renting equipment is another. In the end both leave me with a job done but nothing to use for future projects or simply...

My Kioti dealer was selling HLA grapples. I forget what they quoted me but it was for an older model.

I dunno. Those are awfully neat rows of asphalt. Grapples can do that? I don't see the angles on the grapple to do that. Just sayin. The picture just strikes me as odd at first sight. Something just isn't right.

Pinnacle series? Define "working the jeebuz out of it." I find people's definitions very subjective.

I will say I kind of like the raw look of the unpainted grapple. If it weren't for rust I'd prefer to have mine that way. At a discount of course. Paint and labor savings. ;)

Well, if that first picture isn't staged I don't know what is. Somebody dumped a pile of asphalt in an open field and snapped a shot thinking no one would notice.

I think so. If you can keep the bucket low and push it might not be that bad but then you don't get much leverage. You have to lift the bucket which extends the hydraulics and makes them vulnerable. At least that is how I understand it.

Well, Ag couplers leak a little too when you disconnect.

I was having this discussion the other day. I can get rid of an ant pile multiple ways. I could use spray or I could use dynamite. They both get the job done but do I really need something as extreme as dynamite to do the job a spray can?

I don't think I would call myself a hobby user since I am clearing acres of land of brush trees and rocks and building rock walls along the way but I don't expect to be doing a task this large ever again. Well, maybe to move logs. I kind of think I might be milling my own lumber and others for...

I've considered that route but I am clearing land so I need to move brush piles, logs and rocks. I'm also thinking that a grapple is likely going to excel, over other attachments, at building rock walls with stones too heavy to lift and place by hand.

How do you know if FF couplers are designed to connect under pressure?

I'm guessing you are not a EA fanboy then? Lol!

Any chance you are under-promising and over-delivering with your time tables? Woodland Mills pleasantly surprised me delivering a month after ordering. Their lead times were supposedly 6-12 weeks. Of course they are having their products assembled overseas so it is not the same as manufacturing...

Part of me wonders if he should have been doing some of that with a grapple in the first place regardless of brand. I'd probably use my bucket to push over trees before I put a grapple to them.

I don't doubt the greatness of a Wicked 60. I don't even mind paying a premium. My biggest problem is putting a large part of my project on hold for 4 months waiting for it to arrive. That and maybe having to go pick it up at a business or shipping location. I don't have the means to transport...

Why does location matter?

Right. Same price as if I had to pick it up locally which is why I would have it shipped instead of getting it locally. Too much time and hassle to pick it up for the same price. Only benefit would be is if I needed now and couldn't wait.

Actually, I have. There is a shop up the road from where I bought my tractor that carries them. They seemed pretty heavy duty when I looked at them. And they are indeed heavy. Probably heavier than I want. It also struck me as odd that the cost to purchase them online and have them shipped was...

I'm getting that. Very few questions I post here seem to have an answer everyone agrees with. :)

I guess if I also owned a skid steer and wanted to swap implements between the two then flat face might be the way to go from the start. I hear your argument and will probably go that route.

True. Definitely not questioning the quality. There is a reason there is a 4 month wait for a grapple right now. But EA is also pretty solid from a marketing perspective so there is that adds to the demand. I've heard good things about Homestead too(and other brands) although I don't think I've...

Got it. I am told the Kioti 3rd function kit comes with Ag style or Pioneer style couplers. But I see a good number of videos that say flat face are easier to keep clean and easier to connect/disconnect. Maybe ordering the attachments with flat face and then getting flat face to pioneer...

Hmm. I am honestly new to all of this. Are you saying use the same attachment that comes with the 3rd function kit?

I suppose you could be right. But is that 100lbs in exchange for a weaker attachment? Then that extra 100lbs you could lift might come at the expense of damaging the grapple. Tough call.

I've looked at them and was pretty impressed. Nothing I wanted was in stock though so I moved on. I'll need to check them out again.

I have not considering Kioti attachments as they are often more expensive and not always great quality. That and my Kioti dealer was selling HLA grapples. Does that mean they don't think Kioti grapples are any good or was it just a supply chain issue? Question for me to ask.

I don't really doubt in my mind that the EA is stronger. I guess the need to have a grapple now, or at least soon, makes me wonder if the extra 2+ month wait and the extra $1000 and I have to pick it up at a business or terminal is worth what might be a minimally better product. I'll be using...

I'm getting a 3rd function kit and some attachments and was wondering what is the best coupler to go with? Seems like the flat face couples always come as an option for attachments for some extra $$$. Are they worth the extra money?

I'm going to throw this out there because I am really curious. What is the differences that would make one better than the other? For example how does the the EA Wicked 60 measure up against the HI Root Grapple Pinnacle series? EA Wicked 60...

Haven't read through the thread but I have seen so many videos and I simply do not see many sawdust management systems. I think a bucket hanging under the chute is about as creative as I have seen.

I ordered mine June 27th. On July 4th I was told that my order was in the warehouse and it would take 3 weeks to put the order together and ship. Just set up delivery for July 27th. I think everyone's experience depends on what they ordered, when shipments come in and where they are shipping...

I've seen that shovel . Pretty heavy duty and not as expensive as the one with the fiberglass handle

Not sure my land is that extreme form a rock to soil ratio but there are patches here and there where rocks are a problem. Especially when you hit one of those large rocks that usually have companion rocks just as big.

It's on order but hasn't arrived. I probably would have never started the thread if it I had it.

No water at the site other than 3 50 gallon barrels and the 25 gallons we bring every time we go. We've got some resources in town where we can refill as needed. As for the trenches I was thinking of just going with one wide trench for both rows and not attempt 2 separate rows.

That's nearly the price of a backhoe. I struggle to to justify spending $400 on a bucket spade for this work but thanks for posing. This would be cool. I've considered renting a walk behind from Home Depot.

FYI. I also have a chipper handy to mulch these bushes once they are in the ground. Should help with the water retention while they get established. The other thing is that they are not going to be in direct sunlight during the hotest part of the day. In fact, I am actually more worried they...

that's not the exact location of the bushes. The ground has been cleared up more than what you see here and is actually located in a different piece of the property. This is just what I had pictures of to give an idea of the soil type.

I was thinking of trenching the whole thing for the two staggered rows. Not much 'neat' about that other than maybe the outer sides but even then the plan is to be trenched out 2-3 ft from the base. What are your thoughts about panting now? Leave in pots or get them in the ground?

So this is not what I am looking to do but......got me thinking if there is something I can rig up. Probably just try and dig with the bucket but keeping an eye open for ideas.

Why don't I doubt that? ;). Lol!

Seriously considering forgetting individual holes and just using my loader and bucket to trench the tow rows or one really wide trench to cover the two rows of bushes. Anyone see a drawback to that?

Define "frequently". I get out there a couple of times a week and on the weekends. Plants consist of Old Gold junipers, Gold Mop cypress and Thuja Green Giants and I believe some Blue Pacific junipers. All of these are drought tolerant although I do not know if that also goes for them being in a...

Trust me. I have a list of attachments I eventually want to get. ideally, I'd have the backhoe I bought with the tractor but that is not i yet and no ETA. If I had that....game over. Holes dug!

Yeah. Curse Home Depot for clearancing all these bushes. What's worse is this heat wave. Got to get these things in the ground.

Not so cheap around me but then again my idea of a useful mini excavator is upwards of 18K lbs. I have no experience with the smaller ones.

Got one on order. Still supply chain issues. If I had it I wouldn't have to ask this question. Regardless, I've gotten some great info as always.

Shrubs are deer resistant. As for watering I currently have a few 50 gallon barrels to water and I typically haul out 20-25 gallons when I go in 5 gallon buckets. Ideally I'd like to get a tote and gravity water everything from the tractor.

Hard top tell from the picture but how much room do you have to load or are you not loading from the side?

Yeah. That's my main concern. Chainsawing aggravated my wrist joints from time to time so I can only imagine what that thing will do. Granted, it probably depends on the quality of the machine. Myt understanding is some have springs that take some of the jerkiness out when you get snagged but it...