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I assume you have it installed on an engine. Have you bled the fuel delivery system?

You could straighten that out with a good shop press or have a fab shop do it for you.

I would think a blower that had a minimum width of the rear wheel track width would be the size you were looking for. I doubt a 16gpm pump would work for it to be hydraulically powered. You could put a pto powered pump on it with it's own reservior built on a three point carrier. It would be a...

If you go to the Nebraska Tests, et al, they usually can provide this info. This data is based on tests conducted on a concrete pad. Using the piston/air pressure method you can do this for the soil conditions you are operating in.

Hay Dude, I'm looking to get one of these for the Quicke/Alo loader on our NH TD95D. I want to use it with a snow blade. How is it working out for you ?

Do you have an operator's manual? They often have wiring diagrams in them. Otherwise see if you can find a shop manual or may be someone who has a wiring diagram will post it for you.

7068787M91 Massey Ferguson 1740E 1825E 1835E 1840E Transmission Screen | eBay Found it on ebay. Pretty spendy $117!

Did you bleed the fuel delivery system after you replaced the filter?

Have you checked to see that the thermostat is working? This sounds like a thermostat that is always open.

"I have pulled the starter and the flywheel is coated with oil." What kind of oil? Could it be the rear main seal leaky engine oil?

What is your nominal compression ratio? What altitude are you located at because barometric pressure (p1) plays a role in the final answer. The equation I use for determining compression pressure is: Compression pressure calculation: Engine compression ratio is actually a volume ratio not a...

How often do you work your tractor hard? Generally speaking, "Diesel slobbers" usually results from short periods of low power usage which doesn't allow the engine to come to normal operating temperature for a certain period of time. It consists of partially burned fuel and soot and possibly...

How many hours on the tractor? Any service records?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=slip%20clutch%20pto%20shaft&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-34002-13078-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=102&keyword=slip%20clutch%20pto%20shaft&crlp=_&MT_ID=&geo_id=&rlsatarget=kwd-76622453055657:loc-190&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=111320&poi=&abcId=&cmpgn=395412491&sitelnk=&adg...

I believe the Nebraska tests are done on concrete not soil.

Do you have the operator's manual? If not, you should get one. You can order them from NH or you can find them on the ebay. Maybe the previous owner still has his. Since you say the fluid appears to be "...clean and clear..." get the operator's manual before you do anything.

"Algae" are not the cause of fuel degradation since algae are plants and need sunlight to live. Bacteria that live in the fuel/water interface in a diesel tank cause the problem. No water, no bacteria.

- t-what other sort of maintenance is needed? None -where I grew up oat and grass hay were dry farmed and only alfalfa got irrigated. If you irrigate oat or grass hay do you get multiple cuttings like with alfalfa. As I stated above, oat hay is an annual grass; grass can either be annual...

-is making a deal for someone to cut, bale and sell the hay common? Usually you make a deal to cut, rake, and bale and then either sell the hay or use it yourself. You can structure a deal where you sell the hay "on the stump" and the buyer cuts, rakes, bales and clears the field.

Ferguson Enthusiasts of North America (FENA). It has a lot of technical info on these old Harry Ferguson tractors.

Go to the FENA website There are circuit diagrams there.

It does't look right. Have you ever considered just getting the old one rebuilt? It's probably made better than your replacement from the "land of almost right."

It sounds like you have restricted fuel delivery. You get enough fuel to run at some power level for a half hour and you don't have enough fuel flow to continue beyond that. Disconnect the fuel line after the last filter and hold a container under it to catch the fuel. Turn the key to the run...

Try your local New Holland Dealer, Meesicks New Holland on line, or look on ebay. Factory manuals, in my experience, are much better than IT manuals. They usually have system descriptions that help you understand how the individual systems are supposed to operate and offer more info than the...

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You may have restricted fuel delivery. You have enough fuel to idle with no load but when you release the clutch, the added load can't be met with enough fuel flow so the engine dies. Check the fuel delivery.

Check all the fluid levels (engine oil, coolant, fuel, transmission fluid and hydraulic fluid, front axle fluid, battery electrolyte). Top off as required. Pull plugs or injectors to make sure that there is no oil in cylinders. If there is, crank to clear and re-install plugs or injectors. Check...

Put a T in the line at the outlet to the lift pump and measure the fuel pressure there. It should be 4- 6 psig. If you can, measure it when you are under load like hogging or climbing a hill. If it's less than 4 psig, you should consider replacing the lift pump.

Go to the Messick web site and look up the parts list for your tractor model. See if you can find the neutral start switch. Most of the time they are on the clutch so you have to press all the way down on the clutch to start.

Does it still show black smoke for the short time it runs? Black smoke means it's over fueling. Could be a restricted intake (clogged air filter) or the turbo is not supplying additional airflow like it should. Might want to look into those. What was the "pop" you heard?

Engines I am familiar with have to eventually start with a cold block. If the op's compression measured 250 psig and he's not at high altitude, he has low compression. His saving grace maybe a high ambient temperature that will help with low compression pressure to get started. But 250 psi...

The TO-35 has a different 3 point control than the earlier TO series tractors in that it has position control as well as draft control. Since I assume you have the TO-35 factory service manual and the factory adjustments don't seem to work then I would suspect you have some worn or damaged...

A brand new 17.1 compression ratio engine should give about 560 psig with a 14.7 psi ambient pressure. At 250 psi i doubt that you'd start that engine with that low of a compression pressure.

My NH TD95D has a threaded hole for its block heater.

You could try prying on the bolt or you can take a punch and knock it loose.

Compression ratio is a volume ratio NOT a pressure ratio! The equation I use to calculate the compression pressure is based on the isentropic equation pV^gamma=Constant (eqn 1) where p is the pressure, V is the volume and gamma is the ratio of specific heats of air. Sparing you all the gory...

Go to Messick's website and look up the parts for your model tractor. Look for the hydraulic system pressure relief valve in the hydraulics section.

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???? A diaphragm pump creates a small vacuum on the intake stroke to suck fuel in, then a check valve on the inlet closes as the diaphragm moves in the other direction to create a positive pressure (~4.0 to 4.5 psi) and the outlet check valve opens to port fuel to the IP. The "vacuum pumps"...

The parts picture is a diaphragm pump that is actuated by a cam lobe that presses against a plunger that pushes against a diaphragm. There are check valves in the pump that allow fuel in on the intake stroke and then close when the fuel is pushed out the other check valve and toward the IP.

This is because these companies are run by MBA's and accountants who know the price of everything and the value of nothing!

A "vacuum operated lift pump..." on a diesel engine! Where's the vacuum come from? Do you have a separate vacuum pump?

Make sure your battery terminals and chasis ground are "bright and tight". Do this first. Check all the safety switches and make sure they are closed. Check the battery voltage. It should be 12.6V with the engine off and with the engine running it should be 13.5V to 14.0V. Have it tested at an...

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Check the compression. It should be above 325-350 psig as a minimum.

I hauled my NH TD95D from New Mexico to Montana and then from Montana to Idaho. I put in on our flat bed with the wind shield facing backward and I put a moving blanket over the back window pinched between the seals. That's a total of ~2800 miles. No Problems. If you have a turbo on the engine...

Thanks for the info. It's the same pump though isn't it?

Sure does! I had a leak under the steering wheel on our Ford 4610 and when i changed the pump filter it stopped. I figured the pump was being restricted by the dirty filter and it was over pressuring the system. I replaced the filter and never had another issue.

If you are not seeing oil on the outside of the tractor then the pump must be leaking from the front seal on the pump to the motor oil. Are you seeing a increase in lube oil level?

Without pictures and the model mower, it's hard to specifically diagnose your problem but I'm sure it is just getting the mower and the 3 point hitch adjusted properly. If you have a flat spot of concrete, the general rule is to level the mower fore and aft and side to side. You can use a small...

Does the single filter have a rain port on the bottom? Usually the operator's manual will tell you to open the drain daill to check for water.

I don't know but if I were you, I'd find or buy and operators manual for the7710 and find out. You might be able to find them on ebay and New Holland's web pages.

Tractortoolsdirect.com. They are about $2.50 a piece

How tall is the grass and how long of time are you operating the tractor when you mow? Does your coolant temperature indication move up a bit when you are mowing due to increased load? ( not because the radiator is clogged with chaff).

How hard do you work it? Your oil control rings might be loaded up with carbon from not getting the engine up to temperature long enough. Are you using a Diesel rated lube oil in the engine? At 900 hrs, I doubt it's a compression problem but since it's 19 years old and only has 900 hours on it...

"...didn’t get any manual with tractor." Get one. How can you expect to learn about your tractor operating procedures without one? It's pretty hard to accurately diagnose these types of problems from many miles away. The likely issue in your case is a PTO safety switch. If the PTO was on...

Putting emission controls on farm tractors given the numbers of farm tractors relative to diesel buses and truck that operate in cities, in my opinion, is a "fool's errand"! Farming is a business with slim margins and initial cost and reliability are important parameters for those of us in...

NH website or ebay

They also need to be cleaned throughout the mowing process!

The TO-20 lift lever is on the right side as you sit in the seat. The left side has the PTO shifter that runs the tractor's hydraulic pump. It must be engaged for the pump to run and the three point to work. Your loader probably has a front pump mounted to the crankshaft pulley and that is a...

Make sure the air side of the radiator and the A/C condenser are free of dust and chaff. It's common occurrence when you are brush cutting (or using a rotary cutter ) to clog up the airside passages. You indicted the coolant temperature increased when this happened. Let the engine cool off and...

Go to the Hay talk forum and look for info in the stickies at the begining by Mike10 at the beginning of the Machinery Forum. Mike10 worked on New Holland stuff since dirt was invented.

I haven't done it but it's a common component so I doubt there is some special trick to it. You shouldn't require any special adjustments but as long as you are that deep in it, you might check the adjustments for the lift system control valve. The bigger question is what caused the failure. As...

I had the transmission case get hot to the touch when I was using my 7 ft drum mower to cut hay at 90°F. I'd guess it was about 115-120 °F.

It's normal for transmission to get hot because the oil in the transmission gets hot from friction. The transmission is not 100% efficient so the losses due to friction and windage show up as heat which raises the fluid temperature which in turn raises the transmission case temperature.

Do you see any oil leaking from the lift cylinder? Do you see any leakage from the gaskets on the pump side plates? If your relief valve is stuck open it will make a racket and there will be a lot of activity in the oil by relief valve. Is the control valve stuck in the exhaust position?

The 4 stroke flywheel goes through top dead center on the #1 cylinder compression once every two revolutions; once on compression stroke and once on the exhaust . So either remove an injector to feel when #1 is on the compression stroke or look for when the intake and exhaust valve are both...

For the paint scheme go to fergusonenthusiasts.org or google "fena"

The replacement shaft on my TO-30 which is the same part as the 2N, 9N, and 8N is longer than the original 1-1/8 inch shaft

Some people lift the tiller up without turning off the pto especially on the transmission driven pto's. I used the short 1 -1/8 shaft on my TO-30 with a machined 1-1/8 to 1-3/8 adapter and never had a problem. Those stamped steel ones should not even be sold, in my opinion.

He got the wrong pto shaft if it's too short and he can't turn it off with the lever on the left side by the floor board. And he should have an Over running clutch (ORC) if he's running anything on the pto with high rotational inertia. And the other poster is correct. The 8n needs an auxiliary...

Lots of reasons to overheat besides a failed thermostsat. Clogged air side of radiator, loose fan belt, lower rad hose collapses when the engine is at high rpm. bad rad pressure cap, corroded impeller on water pump, clogged coolant passages in radiator, clogged air filter on a diesel engine...

With an over running clutch (ORC), your blades will continue to spin, not abruptly stop. So you would eliminate your complaint of stuck cutter blades on shutdown. With an ORC The only thing that will stop when you shut off the pto is the pto drive shaft. But it's your machine. You can do what...

That's what I do for my rotary cutter. My drum mower has it built into the mower.

The carb is probably an old Marvel-Schebler and are probably one of the easiest carbs to rebuild. I hope you haven't thrown it away. Remove it from the manifold, take it apart, soak it in carb cleaner for a day or two, blow out all the passages and then make sure they are clear and flowing. Buy...

Bleeding a Diesel Fuel System Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it...

Blown Head gasket? Is there coolant in the oil?

Have you bled the system after doing all this work on the fuel delivery system?

Some of the load is carried by the tow vehicle. How is "payload" defined? For my gooseneck, GVWR of the trailer= trailer weight + payload. Since it's a goose neck, 15% of the GVWR should be carried on the tow vehicle. If the trailer has 7000 lb axles, the total load on the trailer axle should...

I don't have my service manual available but I think the fill hole with the dipstick is the only one I am aware of. It is rather small for a return line. Look around on the top of the rear axle area to see if there is one there. Otherwise talk to the service people at your local NH dealer. You...

I put new tires in our Kubota M4500. I got a pair of Titan radials that were take offs for the same prices as Titan bias ply in the same size. Our Ford 4610 has Titan bias ply rears. I have no complaints. Both tire's have CaCl in them. Yeah they aren't cheap but nothing is anymore.

Do a search for an aftermarket loader, DuAL, Quicke, etc. Most makers have bracket kits to fit your tractor so it will install relatively easy. You may have to buy the hydraulic manifold that bolts to the top of the hydraulic block on the tractor to run hydraulics to the loader valve. If you...

You shouldn't mess with the injection pump unless you know what you are doing. You may have messed up the delivery valve setting on that cylinder or as you surmise, the injector maybe bad. Take the suspect injector to a diesel shop and have it tested. If it tests OK, test it on the engine and...

Congrats on the brake adjustment. If the fluids meet the Ford M2C134X spec for your tractor, then you're good to go. The NH Ambra is pretty expensive and if you have a Costco near you, they carry (at least in my area) a premium transhydraulic fluid that meets the Ford spec. Most of these fluids...

If it's like our TD95D, it's a mechanical pump with a couple of bolts that attach it to the block and then the fuel line fittings. You may need some copper crush washers for the banjo bolts.

Congratulations on getting a Ford 2810! The 10 Series Ford's, in my opinion, are some of the best tractors ever made. We have a 4610 that is still a workhorse on our ranch. I haven't adjusted brakes on ours but I think you just shorten the linkage to account for wear. Jack one tire up, shorten...

It depends on what you are trying to accomplish and the stage of growth the grass is. Most of the nutrients are in the top ~ 25% of the grass because it gets the most sunlight. You'll notice that cows grazing grass without seed heads will pick off the top part of the plant. If the grass has gone...

I think the TN75 had a normally aspirated Iveco 8045.05 engine so it will use a different fuel control than the 8045.25 which is turbo charged and rated at 96 hp. It maybe possible to use your fuel control on a 8045.25 with the turbo removed if everything bolts up. You might get a definitive...

That exhaust manifold looks like it was done professionally. Great workmanship!

I suggested this on Jan 24th on OTT based on your observation that the governor parts were worn. Glad you got around to checking the governor and solved your problem. You've done a pretty good job of systematically attacking the problem and I'm glad you have solved it.

Do you have a timing light? Buy or borrow one and check the timing. Your timing is retarded, your distributor bushing maybe worn, or your advance mechanism is not working. A timing light makes timing it easy but I can walk you through a timing it statically (without a timing light) if you need...

checked governor spring, forks and flyweight. Warn (sic)but nothing broken or missing Worn parts? If there is slack in the parts in the pump, you might expect a slow response to throttle movement. Once you set the throttle and the engine accelerates to final rpm, does it hold speed accurately...

This sounds like a good fix.

Take the side plate off and start the engine. (UNDER NO CONDITIONS SHOULD YOU EVER PLACE YOUR HANDS IN THE HYDRAULIC COMPARTMENT WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!) With an implement on the three point, move the control lever to the lift position. Using a flashlight, look up at the lift cylinder and see...

I'm watching this one with interest!

"Most people seem to think that they are doing their engines a favor by keeping the filter clean. A service manager once told me that the dirtier the filter the cleaner the air going into the engine. It makes sense when you think about it. So why would you give your engine the dirtiest air...

Per you statement: "Most people seem to think that they are doing their engines a favor by keeping the filter clean. A service manager once told me that the dirtier the filter the cleaner the air going into the engine. It makes sense when you think about it. So why would you give your engine the...

Because a clogged air filter reduces intake airflow which reduces power output.

"The web site that sells the Cycle Stop Valve states that the valve leaks a little bit of water when operating." I don't think that the leak is external. It's an internal leak that helps clean the valve seat of dirt, sand, etc. I will be installing one in our new house so it better not leak...

I thought i was the only guy that bought parts and couldn't find them when i needed them!

Looks like your temp gauge is bad. I don't think they are replaceable. I think you may need a whole new panel. It's also possible your sending unit is bad AND the gauge is bad. If you ground the wire to the sending unit TEMPORARILY does the gauge react? If it does, the sending unit is bad.

"The trouble with that is that creating turbulence close to an air-solid interface is going to RAISE the heat transfer coefficient, not lower it." However the ceramic material likely has a lower conduction heat transfer coefficient that keeps more heat in the combustion chamber. Whether that...

When the block heater touches the interior metal of the water jacket, there is no coolant at the contact point and the element overheats and burns out. It can also overheat if you leave it plugged in with the engine running. The cross flow on the element separates on the downstream side of the...

How many wires on your solenoid. Usually there are two so you will have to run two wires. Don't anything about your specific solenoid but give it a try. It can't hurt anything.

Do you have voltage at the fuel shut off solenoid now that you replaced the relays? If you do and the solenoid isn't opening the fuel valve, you have a bad solenoid. There are normally 2 solenoids; an opening solenoid and a holding solenoid and both must be working. If you don't have voltage at...

You have to think about the entire "system" not just the hydrogen powered engine or fuel cell. What do you hope to accomplish with hydrogen power? Water vapor and the oxides of nitrogen are green house gases. What about the infrastructure to produce, store, and distribute hydrogen? What about...

If the ambient temperatures are below 40°F, and you have the Iveco engine, you might try using the Thermostart unit. It's actuated by holding the key between the start and run positions and pushing on the Thermostart button for around 30 seconds. That preheats the air using fuel together with a...

What's the ambient temperature you are trying to start in? What SAE oil grade do you have in the crankcase? What's the state of charge for the battery? What's an "accu"? Have you used any starting aids (block heater, Thermostart)? Have you bled the fuel delivery system? Have you checked the...

It's a New Holland brand made by LS isn't it? Try Messicks on the web or your nearest New Holland dealer. Pick up an operator's manual if you don't have one.

You bet they can. If you park on muddy ground and then get an overnight freeze, putting the tractor in a forward gear can cause you to flip over when you let out the clutch. The rear wheels can freeze to the ground and the torque reaction can flip the tractor over. It can happen to any tractor...

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Does this machine only have one pump? I thought the schematic showed 3 separate pumps P1, P2, and P3. It did not look like unstable rpm's to me from the video. I'll take your word for it that it is. That would point to a problem with the governor in the IP since you supposedly have the...

And why is that?

See my comments on OTT

Look Look at my comment at the Orange Tractor Talk Forum. The load that you are putting on the machine by curling the bucket is very small, so I think your problem is fuel flow related. Remove the line that goes to the Injector Pump. Crank the engine and you should have a steady full stream of...

Try the MF Forum at yesterdaystractor.com

https://www.hoyetractor.com/thermostart.htm

Something is putting a big load on the engine via the hydraulics. Are the track drive bearings frozen, the brakes stuck ON, etc ?

No the fuel valve is operated by heat from the internal heating element.

Block heater's are a simple resistive element in the circuit. they either work or they don't. More than likely your GFI is malfunctioning.

Thanks for the info.

Did the three cylinder Fords use CAV pumps. My 4610 does.

If you don't have an operator's manual, get one. The procedure for bleeding the fuel delivery system is in there. Generally, you bleed the fuel filter first by opening the bleed screw on top of the filter. when you stop seeing bubbles with the fuel, close the bleeder. If you have a lift pump...

Glad all is well with your B6200!

I seriously doubt you did any major damage. It ran funny because the gasoline was basically "knocking" in the combustion chamber. It was detonating too quickly because of the high compression ratio of your diesel engine. I doubt your injection pump would be destroyed by a minute of running time...

If you go to Yesterday's Tractors, there is a correlation between the year and the engine serial number on the data plate on the left side of the Z120 engine block. Look in Serial Numbers section on the left of the page and search the archives.

Are there grease fittings on the clutch pedal shaft and linkage ? Have they been greased regularly? Otherwise there maybe some crap and corruption on the input shaft that the throw out bearing slides on that are not allowing it to freely move. Here's a link to the parts catalog...

Thanks for the info TractorTech. That makes it easier. Pull the head, check for cracks, replace head gasket and then check compression. If you have to do the rings you are only out the head gasket and the time.

If air is escaping from the cylinder, via a leaking head gasket, then, yeah the compression will be down on the effected cylinders and since it is the heat of compression that ignites the fuel, it will be difficult to start. Run a compression check to find out the condition of the cylinder with...

When I had a TO-30 that was converted to 12V, it had the original Delco starter in it. I ran it for 10 years that way before it needed to be rebuilt. The rebuilt starter was still starting it 12 years later when I sold it. My point is that converting the electrical system from 6V to 12 V while...

Did you make sure the PTO lever was in the OFF position?

What does the fouling look like? If it's oily, wet, black stuff, that's oil fouling. If it's black fluffy looking soot, that's a mixture issue or a cold plug. Worn intake valve seals/worn valve guides will exhibit blue smoke at idle where manifold vacuum is maximum, and it will go away at high...

Check the terminals on the electrical cables and the battery ground.

Your engine is what is call an "indirect injection"(IDI) motor. Initial combustion is in this chamber and then "jets out "into the main cylinder. There are several types of pre-chambers. They are often referred to as "Ricardo chambers" though the Ricardo is a specific type. You should be able to...

I stand corrected!

8.8 mm in diameter. It's a metric bolt. As far as length, does your manual specify a length? You'll need an 8.8 mm nut(s) also.

Can you install a block heater in this engine? If you can, you won't need to depend on the Thermostart.

The insulator that the firing tip protrudes through controls the tip temperature. The tip will be in the same position but the insulator will be located closer to the tip for the hotter plug.

Hotter plugs have longer insulators at the firing tip not longer reach. The cooling path for the firing tip is through the ceramic that surrounds the tip so the longer the insulator the hotter the tip.

Fat blue-white spark is what you want so that implies your points are set correctly. !40 coolant temperature sounds low to me. It should be up around 180F. The hotter plugs will have a longer insulator at the firing tip but they won't stick any further into the cylinder. I think you'll solve...

A hotter plug will help this problem. Also make sure that your mixture setting is not too rich, your ignition timing is correct, and the point dwell is per spec. Does your engine hit the correct coolant temperature during your duty cycle? If it doesn't warm up, that could contribute to the problem.

I would suggest you go to ebay and see if you can find a FACTORY service manual for the Ford 3910. Don't get the IT manuals. Get the Ford manuals.

If there is any coolant motion past the block heater element, there is a small flow separation that cause the heat transfer rate to decrease and the element overheats locally and fails. Even if the thermostat is closed, there is some by-pass flow around the thermostat that can cause this to...

The ambient temperature swings will cause condensation problems not the block heater. The quicker warm up with block heater use will help evaporate off any water condensation. As one poster said, short usage cycles of the engine will cause more problems.

we are all going to learn something out of your tear down. Anyway to remove the loader to make the job easier?

First of all, you are calculating the compression pressure from the compression ratio (its a volume ratio) and multiplying that by ambient pressure. That's incorrect. Here's something I put together on the subject. Engine compression ratio is actually a volume ratio not a pressure ratio. The...

You might pull the timing cover and take a look. I still don't understand how at least some of the valves were not actuated. Is this an interference engine? I wonder if the timing gear failed and then the pistons hit the lowered valves and bent them and the push rods so they would just "hang...

How hard have you been working it? Before I did anything I'd work the snot out of it. You realize that a diesel, unlike a spark ignition engine, runs across a large range of fuel/air ratios. This means it runs across a broad range of peak cylinder temperatures. Running at high idle will not...

Worse than that-it will make that cylinder run hot and it can burn a hole in the piston crown!

Don't use starting fluid. It can break piston rings and the piston lands. It was common to use on the older, low compression ratio diesels Modern diesels have starting aids (Thermostart intake heaters, block heater's, glow plugs) for cold weather starting. If you have a Thermostart system, using...

What oil? Engine lube oil or hydraulic oil? If you have an oil temperature gauge, you probably have an oil cooler. Make sure the fins are clean so air can flow through it and that the supply lines are not pinched so oil can get through. Generally, the oil temp gauge circuit goes like battery...

You can't expect dirt to dry out just because you have opened it to sunlight! How much is your yearly average rainfall and what is the water capacity of your soils? Ever notice how forest roads are graveled? You might want to consider following suit.

You might want to look from the starter end. As I recall I had to look pretty hard to find that the ring gear was "out of plane".

I had a ring gear come off my TO-30 and wedge between the flywheel and the bell housing and it locked the engine up. The engine was a Z129 and it turned out someone put a flywheel from an early production TO-20/Z120 engine on it. It turns out the early TO20's had the ring gear sweated on from...

It's something you can use for a start in cold weather. I have one on my Kubota M4500. It located in a position where you have to open the battery compartment to get to it. The Kubota Work Shop Manual and the operator's manual don't even mention it so I doubt it was ever used. I tried it several...

What's a EHSS?

It's probably a 400 or 600 watt heater so 3.5-5 amps at 120 V. 15 amp timers will handle that easily. Make sure you extension cord can if you use one.

Do you have the owner's manual? Specific instructions for your model will be in there. Generally speaking, bleeding requires shutting off the fuel valve, replacing the filter element and cleaning the filter bowl (if it has that type of filter), putting the filter together, opening the fuel...

Most likely a leaking seal in the three point lift cylinder. Cylinder leaks down and three point position control tries to hold position so it constantly cycles.

Yes. I had Brian do my draft links for the M4500 Kubota this summer. He does great work and the hooks make it easy to hook up three point implements. My links were back quickly and I have put them to use. He even painted them! I strongly recommend Brian and Fitrite Hydraulics.

The circuit is generally from the BAT connection on the key switch to a voltage reducer (generally limits voltage to 5 V) to the sending unit in the tank to ground. The system is basically a variable resistance (tank level sensor) that has a high resistance when the tank is full to a low...

I don't claim to have seen it all but it is unlikely that the coolant temperature gauge circuit itself is fused. The general hook up is from a battery connection to a voltage reducer to the gauge to the sensor to ground.

What did the fluid look like and when is the last time you changed the hydraulic filter?

Take some pictures closer up so we can see the details of the engine installation and the instrument panel. There should be a placard on the instrument panel with a a number like TE XXXXXX or TO YYYYYYY, etc.

Google Agri-Service in up-state New York. Jim Guarino makes wiring harnesses for almost all the older tractors. I bought one for my Ford 4610 and Jim was helpful with advice during the installation.

You need to tighten the hold down so you can still turn the distributor but not too loose that it can move vertically. Is your rotor on all the way? I think the 600 Series Fords had a special retainer clip for the rotor IIRC.

Just because you change the filters regularly doesn't mean you have adequate fuel flow. The strainer in the tank could be restricting flow because of crud in the tank. You could also have crud int the lines to the filter and the filter head itself. How about the air filters? As other's have...

Look around near the thermostat housing.

I use an ORC on all our tractors to make life easy on the internal PTO brake.

You can't even run long enough to get the temperature up so why worry about over temping at this point? Did you have an overheating problem before you had this issue? If you didn't, then I would focus on getting your machine running longer than 20 minutes.

There is always a risk of" egg on the face" when you are attempting to solve a problem from 2000 miles away with data that maybe questionable. The idea of these forums is to help the person who has asked for help. It's not to boost egos. I know you know that.

You will see that the thermal energy that the water seems to accept (reflected in temperature change) is not constant across time. That's because the heat transfer rate is proportional to (Th -Tc) where Th is the heat source temperature and Tc is the water temperature. That differential...

This sounds like a coincidence to me. It could mean the delivery blockage is consistently a fixed volume of fuel so the engine at the same load only runs so long and quits. The gauge resolution is most likely not good enough to say the stopping point is at the same temperature. Don't get...

Get an infra-red thermometer (~$20 at Harbor Freight) and see what is causing your problem. I doubt it's the steering fluid. Sounds more like it would be exhaust related. Look for exhaust leaks like the line to the turbo, proximity to the exhaust manifold, etc

Did you remember to bleed the entire fuel delivery system after you replaced the fuel lines? Many injection pumps have a bleed screw on the pump itself and that needs to be opened to allow fuel into the pump. I don't think you have a lift pump (sometimes called a transfer pump) but if you do...

Unless you know somebody that worked on designing the engine controls who is willing to talk about their design, I'm afraid that stuff is considered proprietary to the engine company. However, there are some books that discuss common rail fuel systems around. Look at Alibris or Amazon, etc. for...

If they are friction discs, go to a leather shop and by some scraps and make your own.

There is normally a "friction disk" that is adjustable to keep vibration from causing the throttle lever to move. They are made out of leather I believe, and they get "shined up" and no longer grip. Don't know how yours works but follow the throttle linkage to the IP.

I don't have access to my service manual. However, I think it is binary; below a coolant temperature of 120°F, the timing is retarded 2°. Above a coolant temperature of 120°F, it is advanced by 2° back to design timing. It is done internally to the hydromechanical Bosch Injection Pump. (As I...

"...Now, it doesn't have as much fuel pouring out as the filter housing, but I'm still getting fuel flow...." What does that tell you?

If you had crap and corruption in the tank there is a good chance you have the same stuff in the filter head (the casting that holds the filter). Check the filter head where the fuel enters the filter.

Mine is actually a 2007 TD95D and it's a Tier II engine. The only controllable function on it is an electro-mechanical timing reset on the Bosch IP that is controlled by coolant temperature. When the coolant temperature reaches 120F, the correct timing is restored. The TN series was made before...

Don't even think of trying to handle it by hand. The only way I would do that is with a cherry picker that is rated for the total weigh of the tire or a FEL. I'd use a lifting strap rated for the weight and pick it up that way. A good set of forks might be another way to do it.

If the light comes on, when you reconnect your sensor then the diaphragm inside is torn and the sensor should be replaced. Check and see if that happens when you re-install the sensor and run the rpm up. You know your oil pressure is fine since you tested it with an independent gauge so if the...

Remember that the casting at the top of the filter head is part of the fuel delivery circuit. Check that. You said you blew through the in and out lines but you didn't mention blowing out the filter casting itself. Pay particular attention to the fuel inlet part of the casting. I would have...

You make a good point. However, IIRC, the TN70 is not a common rail, electronically controlled engine. I believe it has a hydromechanical injector pump.

By the looks of the lift pump in the picture, it appears to have a screw in the top. That usually provides access to a screen under that cover. That screen can clog partially or completely. If it is partially clogged ........

Well you proved it's not a tank strainer clog! Your symptoms all point to a fuel delivery restriction. Have you checked the fuel filter discharge hose.? Do you have continuous full flow at the filter discharge? There could be a blockage in the fuel filter head that limits fuel through the...

Glad you got it running. My thoughts on why your filter bowl kept running low implies that the supply passages between the tank and the filter bowl were restricted and the lift pump was sucking down the bowl through the fuel filter vent to the return to tank line since it probably is not...

+1

You need to know the flow capacity of the existing control valve and you can try Surplus Center, or a hydraulic supply house to get a replacement. Most likely it is an open center valve. Is a NH part too expensive? It will probably be a direct fit.

Fill the tank back up, shut the tank valve off, take off the offending hoses and replace them with new fuel hose, open the tank valve, bleed the fuel delivery system and you should be good to go.

The sensor is merely a temperature sensitive resistor that controls the current through the gauge. Generally, they either work or they don't, Why do you think the sensor is bad? What are the symptoms?

"I filled it back up and while I was attempting to get fuel back into the rails,... " Did you bleed the fuel delivery system per the owner's manual instructions? "I turned it to start it and got power to the solenoid at 10v or so. So thinking everything would be ok, I hooked the wire back up to...

What I was referring to was the casting at the top of the fuel filter that contain passages to transfer the fuel into the filter. If crud is found in the tank fuel outlet, there is a chance that crud can be trapped there. But first you have to get fuel out of the tank.

You most likely have crud caught in the fuel tank outlet. Take a small wire and run it into the outlet tube and see if you can dislodge it. Alternately, you can remove the fuel cap, get an air compressor and blow back through the fuel outlet tube to try and dislodge whatever is caught there...

I think what you are referring to is called a lynch pin and you can find them at almost every farm store or Tractor supply etc.

Where do you get the golf cart canopies?