I need help deciding on new trailer

[downslope]

I like that 20 ' flat deck what is the axel rating. That looks like a 2/3-1/3 axel split. I'm thinking I would prefer more like 60/40 for less tongue weight. What do you think?

I think you may be splitting hairs here between 60% and 67%. Why not just buy the trailer a couple feet longer than you need to squeeze everything on and you should be able to balance the weight the way you desire; and the extra length will be handy when hauling bulky or long items. I assume you're not meaning that even 800 lbs tongue like schmism has is too much and/or you're not averse to using a WD hitch such as he is doing.

 

[schmism]

I like that 20 ' flat deck what is the axel rating. That looks like a 2/3-1/3 axel split. I'm thinking I would prefer more like 60/40 for less tongue weight. What do you think?

My trailer is 6 bolt axles. 5200-6000 lb (depending on springs).

If you look at a PJ trailer, there 6" frame is listed as an equipment trailer with 7K axles (8 bolt) the 4 and 5" frame is listed as a car hauler with 5200 lb 6 bolt axles.

I dont see how you could get away with less tongue weight. The standard rule is 10% of the weight behind you. a 20' flat PJ trailer is 2000lbs curb weight your tractor plus backhoe has to push 5K more if you have loaded tires. thats 7000 lbs behind you at that point, which is 700lbs tongue weight.

I might run mine a bit heavy at 800lbs if i just have 5000lbs behind me, but honestly the 1 ton springs on my van like the weight.

 

[downslope]

I dont see how you could get away with less tongue weight. The standard rule is 10% of the weight behind you. a 20' flat PJ trailer is 2000lbs curb weight your tractor plus backhoe has to push 5K more if you have loaded tires. thats 7000 lbs behind you at that point, which is 700lbs tongue weight.

I might run mine a bit heavy at 800lbs if i just have 5000lbs behind me, but honestly the 1 ton springs on my van like the weight.

Actually 2,000 lbs is the weight of the 7k rated trailers. Since he is looking to upgrade to at least 10K the weight will be closer to 3,000 lbs, and a 14K will be over 3000.

That's what I meant when I said I was assuming he wasn't trying to go less than 800 lbs tongue with a 10K+ trailer. I see you have a van, they can take a little more tongue weight since the overhang is generally shorter.

 

[tman1020]

You may be right down slope I also like your idea about a longer trailer and I appreciate your response. I have put a lot of thought into this before I pull the plug on a new trailer. It just seems that with the 67% versus 60% split especially on dovetail optioned trailers it does not leave you much space for adjustment most of your weight has to be forward of the axles and it's very easy to get very heavy on tongue weight. I do have a weight distribution hitch have used it before but would prefer not having to have to use it. I have a halfton truck that I pull with and it does a very good job until the tongue weight gets excessive.most of my pulling his short distances.

 

[imgoin]

I recently ordered a trailer from Load Max or Load Trail. Currently we have 4 trailers of varying sizes and capacities as well as designatations, but keeping up with registration, maintenance, inspection stickers, and worse, tires, is expensive and sometimes not completly followed through with. My plan is to use one trailer in place of the 4 I have now. The new trailer ordered is a model GR16, it has a hyd dove tail, 2 8K EOHyd disc brakes with 17.5 16 ply tires, deck on the neck, and 26' deck length. As a previous member had stated earlier this manufacture has a lot of details for the dollar. True it all adds up, but I've learned the hard way about under built trailers and repairs, and more so with under powered magnet brakes not stopping my load in time for aggressive drivers who dart in front of you and stop to turn. When the trailer comes in and in my possession, I will post some pics of it.

 

[lilranch2001]

Check out Sure-Trac trailers. I bought an 18' w/radials, spare, removable fender, diamond plate bed, 7k jack and rated for 10k. The trailer is powder coated, frame constructed with tubing, excellent welds, all led lighting, sealed harness, etc. I loaded my tractor and additional attachments at very close to the trailer weight limit and it tows like a dream. It's almost like you don't have a trailer hooked up.

The pricing iis very competitive and I was all in at a little over 3.5k. No, I don't work for them or have any affiliation. I just have never seen anything about these awesome trailers on tbn.

FWIW, I purchased mine from 'The Hitchman' in Maryland. Great place with good, friendly, honest staff.

I live a few miles from where they are built, and the local dealer seems to be a few hundred $$ above remote dealers.
They are well built trailers in my humble opinion, I just find it difficult to pull the trigger when I know these guys are getting paid a premium

 

[HK45]

I had a very nice premier trailer 10,000 heavy-duty landscape trailer. Best trailer i ever had

 

[tman1020]

Just sold my old trailer this weekend so now I'm kind of committed. Still using my friends 14 K for now but have not had to hall yet. As of now I'm thinking 20 foot 10 K car hauler.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Just sold my old trailer this weekend so now I'm kind of committed. Still using my friends 14 K for now but have not had to hall yet. As of now I'm thinking 20 foot 10 K car hauler.

With a 20' trailer I would not go with a 10K. Spend a few more dollars and get a 12K. It shouldn't weigh more than 50# more. Usually the only difference is the coupler, tires, wheels, and axles. Everything else is the same.

Chris

 

[Parkanzky]

With a 20' trailer I would not go with a 10K. Spend a few more dollars and get a 12K. It shouldn't weigh more than 50# more. Usually the only difference is the coupler, tires, wheels, and axles. Everything else is the same.

Chris

I can't speak for the OP, but I am also shopping for a 20', 10k# trailer. In my case it just doesn't make sense to step up to 12k# trailer.

The 10k# already has way more capacity than I'm likely to ever need. My tractor weighs 2000# before the FEL or implements. I don't know what the loader with the bucket weighs, but figure 1000#. Another ~700# for my flail mower, ~600# for the box scraper, take the forks along and that might be another ~3-400# (probably not that much on this little tractor). All that adds up to around 4300#. A 10k# trailer that weighs 3000# will have 7000# of capacity. I could load my tires, pack up all those implements, and still take a full ton of rocks with me.

In my case, I could easily get by with an 18', 7k# car trailer. A 20', 10k# tilt trailer is already my overkill. It all comes down to what you need.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The problem with a 10K 20' is you will find other stuff to haul. Like a diesel 3/4 ton truck, they weight 7500#, or a 1 ton weighs 8200#. I can load more than 7000# of lumber, fire wood, or mulch on my 18' trailer. Then there is resale.

Don't look at what you have today or you will be buying another trailer for what you have tomorrow.

Chris

 

[tman1020]

Good advice I'll take that into consideration. Thanks

 

[tman1020]

Well I think I finally decided on what to get and just about ready to pull the plug. I priced out 10k 20 foot utility trailers and 10 K 20 foot car hauler's. Have decided on the car hauler and will build my own removable sidewalls. It's going to have a 2 foot bever tail and 5' split heavy duty ramp gate, tool box and 7 k jack and 60/40 Axel split. Made by US cargo in Elkhart in.

 

[CJONE]

dbl post

 

[CJONE]

I agree with Diamond but I will say my 10K 18' is my go to trailer for anything under 8K that I am going to haul a long distance. It is light enough for my 1/2 ton to pull in overdrive and it will handle a 7k+ load with no issues. My 14K, the 1/2ton doesn't like to pull it in overdrive empty. There is that much difference. CJ

 

[tman1020]

I'm having a hard time deciding on what ramps to get. Slide out or fold up, I thought I wanted a heavy duty split gate but sure as heck I know that if I do there will be that time when I need a little more length and the gate prevents any hang over option ( like a tail wheel).

 

[Diamondpilot]

I'm having a hard time deciding on what ramps to get. Slide out or fold up, I thought I wanted a heavy duty split gate but sure as heck I know that if I do there will be that time when I need a little more length and the gate prevents any hang over option ( like a tail wheel).

I have had all three styles and by far my favorite are slide in. Makes the trailer very versatile and easy to pull.

Chris

 

[Xfaxman]

I'm having a hard time deciding on what ramps to get. Slide out or fold up, I thought I wanted a heavy duty split gate but sure as heck I know that if I do there will be that time when I need a little more length and the gate prevents any hang over option ( like a tail wheel).

If you want to read an old thread with good info: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/273476-stand-up-slide-ramps.html

 

[tman1020]

Thanks for the replies and the link good to know I'm not the only one who has pondered over this. After reading that I'm leaning toward fold up ramps.

 

[powerscol]

Just double check the width between the wheel wells and what you expect to haul. In my case I could not fit my tractor and implements between the wheel wells.

You also need to check your hitch rating and you will probably need an equalizer hitch set up. Every truck I had limited dead load to 500 lbs. More with the equalizer (there should be a sticker on the hitch frame somewhere). In my case I went with a goose neck to get even more capacity,

Good luck, and it looks like you did your home work. I also have the fold up ramps and glad I got them, however I am looking for a lift helper as they are a bit heavy to get off the ground.