Desperately need to fix driveway

[Binx]

Holy cow! Thank you guys! I apologize for the delay in my response (life, working late and a new puppy).

We were planning to start building on our dream home this year, but lumber prices are insane. We will probably need to wait until next year before we can start and don't want to sink a ton of money into this driveway, but we do want to make it right.

The previous owner had gravel that was about 1" or less and we used to watch the small pieces run down the driveway, along with the rainwater. A contractor recommended that we put in surge stone for the base, which we did, and the plan was to live with it and decide what to do next. The surge stone (3-5") fixed the run off and we needed to add more stone to top it off. This is when the professional occurred.

There is too much gravel right before and right after the curved part of the driveway and the excess gravel needs to be pulled out of there because this is where the UPS / FedEx / Amazon / Me can get stuck. Husband has that 4x4.

Based on everything I'm reading from you guys, we really do need either a land plane or box blade with scarifiers to pull up/level out the surge stone, gravel, dirt, etc. I am leaning towards a box blade because of it's versatility, ability to move dirt, ballast, fix a driveway and it's more mobile at 1/2 the depth of a land plane with about the same amount of weight. But the majority of you guys are saying land plane w/scarifiers. Isn't the land plane primarily for driveways? Wouldn't a box blade do an acceptable - good job and still be useable for other things?

@deezler,
Yes, I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the answers and some of them seem to tell me to go in different directions back blade instead of land plane or box blade.

We don't have any run off or ruts caused by water and it's mainly the delivery trucks.

Please let me know if this will work. I think I'm following your advice:
Buy a box blade or land plane w/scarifiers. Is 700lbs sufficient?
Hubby nixed the back blade, but he's open to getting a landscape rake depending on it's price.
Scarify.
Spread out the loose gravel.
If we get a landscape rake, get at least an 7' rake and use it to pull gravel back into main driveway.
Make a crown and smooth the drive.
Expand the ditch on the right side of the drive.
Compact it with the tractor.
Lengthen the ditch on the right side of the drive.
Check on what the driveway looks like and decide if we should get crusher run or something in between.
Compact it again and wait for a rain.
Finish off with crusher run.
Compact again.
Don't let UPS or Fed Ex or Amazon drive on it until after the crusher run is spread, it is rained on and has been well compacted.
Maintain after that.

 

[Binx]

If you are having drainage issues install a few water bars to divert the runoff. I have a drive uphill, gravel and a half mile long. It would wash out every time we had a hard rain, I cut some water bars problem went away. We just had 5 inches of rain a couple of weeks ago and very minimal damage.

What are water bars?

 

[Binx]

I should add - I have a hydraulic top link. It makes using all my land engagement implements so much easier. They will do the very best job for you because any adjustments are done on the fly and can be done until the implement is working perfectly.

The tractor sales person said we really didn't need hydraulics!!! We may have the local Kioti dealer install the hydraulics as he's only 10 minutes from the future house. The Kubota dealer we purchased from is about an hour away and the local Kubota dealer doesn't have a good rep.

 

[Binx]

I agree with the Crusher Run. Not sure what they call it in your neck of the woods. But it does pack hard. I also think that you will get a real benefit by putting down a matting. I started my driveway with it and 6 years later it's fine. My neighbor has been just using Shale stone for the last 30 years and he needs to Top it every three years as the stone gets rutted and driven into the ground. I bought my matting at Lowe's. After that, a box would probably work to pass over once a year, after snow plowing pushed stuff around a bit

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hanes-Geo-Components-TerraTex-360-ft-x-12-5-ft-Black-Nonwoven-Geotextile/3316348

We'll look at using geo textile on our future driveway. Weeds in the driveway are bad!

 

[fried1765]

What are water bars?

Water bars are ridges running diagonally across a driveway to direct runoff flow!
Despite what your husband may think,...you need a rear blade (Think EA Deluxe Scrape Blade), and you (or he) need to learn how to use it!.
A box blade is great, if you need to move material just for the sake of moving it, but it is a less than satisfactory tool for driveway maintenance.

 

[Binx]

Like a lot of rural/semi-rural folks, I also have a 400' drive that needs help to stay passable, particularly in spring. The problem is clay fines. They absorb water, freeze and expand. During spring thaw, they release the moisture and combined with their slippery-when-wet nature, create mud for weeks.

A few years ago, I took an area in front of my carport 30'x30' and tried a three step process: grade for runoff, add a layer of 3/4" washed rock (no fines) about 2-3" thick, then a layer of "crusher dust" 1-2" thick, which is all rock and about a 1/4"-minus aggregate. The no-clay-allowed crusher dust locks the washed rock together, the rock layer allows movement of moisture over the graded base and for 3 years, no mud in spring.

I'm about to do three other areas this summer, same fashion. Grading for runoff on the base (mine has too much clay for my liking..) adding a very porous layer, and then a locking layer allowing seepage with no ability to absorb water itself. I have needed to add some crusher dust in a couple of areas in the original patch that sift down into the larger rock. With real soft ground, start with some 3-6" minus stone for a base.

Also: if one can find and afford the proper fabric under the rock, it really is the pro touch for road-building over a soft area. At some point, the total cost begins to approach or exceed asphalt.

We have to look at what the driveway looks like after we smooth it out and compact it. I know we'll need the crusher run, but I have a feeling we'll need that 3/4" washed rock.

 

[fried1765]

We'll look at using geo textile on our future driveway. Weeds in the driveway are bad!

Weeds will continue to grow in the gravel atop the geo textile.
Once over yearly with a Glyphosate solution will take care of the weeds.
I hate driveway weeds also.
I maintain my white shell driveway free of all weeds, using Treflan herbicide, and/or Glyphosate.

 

[Binx]

I just when back and looked at OP’s 1st post. Particularly at type photos posted.

Some specific comments related to the photos
1) forget trying to crown your complete driveway!
Folks before you go wild!!!! go look at the 2 photos!!! She has spots shown that are mild banked curves, water will always drain to the low side. If you have a stretch of flat area, crowning would be good in those areas.
2) you need ditches! With the trees close to your drive that can be seen, you may not be able to cut ditches with your tractor. Some trees will have to go, while others are going to have roots where you need the ditch to be. Personally, if I were doing it, this is a job for a medium sized mini excavator. Once a ditch is established, by picking the ground conditions it can be maintained and shaped with your tractor and an offset rear blade.
It is difficult to tell based upon the limited view of the photos, but full length ditches may not be what best meets your needs. ‘Short’ (relative term) ditches on the bottom on the curve slope dumping into a natural low spot, built retaining pond, natural creek or other water control feature may better serve your needs.
3) with those ‘banked’ curves, you will have gravel movement. In my opinion it will be pushed to the high side by vehicles traveling too fast. As well as water flow and gravity will roll gravel down hill. You can reduce some of both effects with some fines in the gravel. You do not ever want to have ‘creek’ gravel on those areas. In my area, creek gravel is often solid my land owners that have creeks on their property. It is typically very smooth and will roll/slide always.

We do have short runs of ditches on the right side of the driveway. There are numerous ruts from the delivery trucks and the gravel is building up on the left side of the driveway. I'll try to order a rake too and pull that buildup over.

 

[fried1765]

We do have short runs of ditches on the right side of the driveway. There are numerous ruts from the delivery trucks and the gravel is building up on the left side of the driveway. I'll try to order a rake too and pull that buildup over.

An angled rear blade is the BEST way to pull that buildup back into your driveway!

 

[deezler]

Welcome back, Graz. I think your listed out plan is pretty solid. The choice of what single implement to purchase is not an easy one. Personally I find a rear scraper blade and box blade to both be essential tools with different functions. The land plane is really only for gravel driveway maintenance or other loose-material smoothing; a one-trick pony, if you will. Some people like a landscape rake for driveway work, and I don't doubt that they can pull gravel around, but I could see one struggling to be effective with the large stones you have. They just aren't very heavy or strong tools.

Your location of SE presumably means south east, where you don't have snow to deal with in the winter.

For me: the box blade is on almost all summer long. I do my landscaping stuff in the summer, and otherwise it makes for quite compact and heavy rear ballast, keeping the tractor maneuverable and the loader work safe.
The rear scraper blade is on all winter long, for any snow plowing duties, and in the late fall and early spring is when I find I need it to dress my driveway and re-shape the crown. A box blade can only pull forwards - the lack of side-to-side angling makes it less productive for some driveway work, like fried1765 likes to so often point out.

I would try to get both implements. Kind of surprised you don't have either already, with the type of work you need to do. If you search your local craigslist and facebook marketplace, you can probably get a solid rear blade for a few hundred bucks, and a nice box blade for several hundred or so.