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Might be easier and maybe even cheaper just to replace the tank..?? Here is a link for a new tank for $144. Just a thought. https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/fuel-tank-new-ford-c5nn9002ac-e3nn9002ab-103893.html

Might I suggest getting the cylinders resealed rather than replacing the whole cylinder? There are shops that do this sort of thing.

A few photos would certainly help..

There should be a test port. Hopefully you get the shop manual soon. Please let us know what you find so we can all learn from this!!

Got any pictures?? we love pictures!!

The 110 tlb is known for having issues with cracked and broken transmission housings. It is quite possible that the dealer may have not have put things back together properly. From what I read in your post it sounds like you have checked all the necessary areas and the only thing left are the...

Thank you for keeping us updated!! Please keep us informed as to what you wind up doing and the results you are having so we may all learn.

If there are no external leaks and leak down is fairly quick then it is usually a sign that the control valve/spool is leaking hydraulic fluid from the cylinder back to the reservoir. The issue of not being able to lift the tractor may have to do with pressure and a pressure relief valve may...

Did you buy a new o ring or use the old one for the bowl? The rubber will likely get hard and brittle over time. Might be that it is too hard to seal properly..?

It is hard to tell where the wires are going to from your pictures and this is where a shop manual comes in handy. I can see that your solenoid is three prong which means there is a holding circuit after the start circuit. You should also be checking that the relay/time delay control module is...

Have you checked the injection pump solenoid? Checked ignition switch for proper contact? What year is this tractor? Is the engine tier 4 or pre-tier 4?

I assume this is a John Deere 2520 compact. The fuel solenoid is attached to the fuel injection pump. I will provide a link to the parts diagram and hope it comes up ok. It is part #29 in the diagram. If it has 2 wires it is easy to test by putting 12 volt to and if it clicks it is usually ok...

compression check is a great place to start! Also, do you know why the head cracked in the first place?

Was the junkyard head rebuilt? Or just pulled and installed?

Reversing or swapping wheels is usually done to increase or decrease tread width or distance between the tires on a tractor. The difference being that if you reverse wheels and keep them on the same side you are changing the direction of the tread. If you swap them left to right you will...

Happy to help as best as I can!! Please let us know how it turns out.

just wondering why a pto pump? I noticed that they are quite expensive unless you are buying just the pump and building the frame and drive yourself. A gas powered pump seems to be cheaper and allows more flexibility in positioning and location.

If the fuel line is providing plenty of fuel and the injectors are good and there are no leaks then I would start to suspect the injection pump? White smoke and not being able to run higher rpm is usually an indication that a diesel is running lean or starving of fuel supply.

If you post some photos of what you are talking about you might get more help.

Seems like lack of fuel. Have you checked tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, lift pump (if so equipped)?? Just to start with.

First off I would definitely check into where the coolant is going!! This can cause an expensive breakdown. In regards to electrical gremlins maybe have a look for rodent damage. Trace wires looking for damage as well as evidence of nesting. Just as a start of things to look into.

Given where you are located it should not be cold enough to create problems. I would maybe post a video and see if someone here knows your machine well enough to provide some insight as to whether it is normal operation or not. I would still let things warm up a little anyways, even in summer.

If you can upgrade then I would if it were me, but only to a point. I would look at tractors that have engines before tier 4. Or tractors under 24 horsepower that do not have all the electronics associated with them. They will be much easier and less expensive to maintain. I have not read every...

What is the temperature where the tractor is stored? If it is fairly cold then you should let the hydraulic fluid and engine warm up for some time. Hydrostatic transmissions are more susceptible to temperature than traditional geared transmissions and typically require longer warm-up times.

What have you checked so far?

Is there any way you could attach the top link to the 2 big lobes that are on either side of the draft control bracket? That would eliminate draft control and looks a lot stronger as well. I have to say I am not a big fan of 3pt hitch backhoes unless it is a small backhoe attached to a very...

I am not absolutely sure but used to be that GL4 and lower were typically used in transmissions with synchromesh. GL5 contains high levels of sulfur-phosphorus which are not good for softer metals. Or perhaps if you could find manual transmission oil, it would likely be ok. Personally I would go...

Don't want to derail the post but I am curious as to why you got rid of the MX5100?

Wow!! That disk is quite chewed up. Important to inspect machine and check bolt and lug torque periodically. Really like your progress on a wonderful piece of property! Thanks for bringing us along on the journey!

Thanks for letting us know!!

Like crashz said. I also might try putting all fours in the air and spin the wheels. Make sure you have it properly secured!! Also was wondering if your front drive shaft is a splined shaft where the coupler is warn to the point of skipping teeth. I know this can happen on Kubotas and it does...

Have you tried talking to the dealer? Sorry I do not know your particular machine but there is one way to find out for sure and that is to mount some type of ground engagement implement like a plow and see which position of the draft control allows the plow to go the lowest while plowing and...

I'm guessing you are talking about the TYM t603? Just wondering how much fluid did you have to add to the front end? Was it always low or do you notice a leak somewhere?

Kind of hard to tell how high those mounds are. If they are a foot or so, a few runs with a toothed disc harrow might do. Or if they are bigger a spring shank cultivator and a disc harrow or a blade to smooth.

Perhaps you could show us some photos so we have a better idea of what you are dealing with. That way we can likely make better recommendations.

I believe you crack open the screw of the incoming fuel line to the injection pump, then tighten. If it does not start you might have to bleed to the injectors. Does your tractor have a lift pump?

Have you checked hydraulic fluid level? Fluid condition, is it milky in color? Does this machine have a screen for the fluid? Just some initial things to go over.

beenthere is correct, you should provide more information. I will take a stab at it never the less. If it is the mechanical spinning cable type then you might need a new cable. If it is electronic then you will likely have to get the multi tester out. Hope this helps!!

If you are talking about the round flashing lights that are mounted on top of the fender, they usually have 2 lenses that snap on and off. One for front and one for back. A flat head screwdriver will typically do the trick. Just look for some sort of insert hole at the edge of the lens. Hope...

Best way to flush is fill and drain a couple of times with hydraulic fluid. Might be a little pricey but is still the best way. As TractorTech mentioned if you can drain the cylinders this will help and may only require a one fill and drain. Hope this helps!!

Like ptsg mentioned I would suspect draft control. Need to make sure top link is not putting pressure on control rod. Disable.

Personally I think digging out the driveway and creating a bridge would be best; leaving some extra clearances with regard to length and height. It is likely that the creek may find/erode another path if the restriction at the driveway crossing were to become great enough and that would...

Best to take a slide caliper and measure it yourself.

Have you checked lift pump pressure? Have there been any repairs done prior to this happening?

What have you checked so far? Any leaks? Fluid level ok? Fluid condition foamy or milky or metal shavings?

Oops.. Posted the above reply before seeing the picture.. You definitely have a fair bit of flow there.

It also depends on how strong the flow is. If it is largely standing water or very slow moving then your idea may be alright. If there is flow and it increases a fair bit after it rains then you will have erosion issues to deal with.

I closer picture as well as from different angles would likely help in analyzing. It might be a lock out pin to prevent the bracket from putting pressure on the draft control piston. Just a guess at this point.

There have already been examples in the fabrication industry where machinery is no longer usable because of software and circuit boards no longer being supported or made. Just sayin..

It seems everything is becoming more and more complicated and more expensive to repair. We may be approaching a time when things become so complicated that they may not be fixable or too expensive to fix. Or the software is no longer supported. That's when the equipment becomes disposable. How...

I believe battery longevity also has to do with where it is located both geographically and where it is housed on a vehicle. In cold climates they seem to have a shorter life cycle than in milder climates. Also car batteries that spend their time in the engine compartment have to withstand...

Just because it's new does not necessarily mean it's good. Things are certainly not made as well as they used to be

All good information here!! I would also like to point out that it depends on the type of footing you are intending to dig. Shop and barn footings are usually quite shallow and typically do not require a large machine. However if you are needing to dig past a frost line then a bigger machine...

I have personally never seen a custom fit tractor cover. And by that I believe you mean a soft cover. Likely quite difficult to put on and take off. Better to build a temporary cover like a pole barn or canvas tent type structure to park it under. Just my 2 cents.

Sorry, I don't have any experience with any of these mowers. I did however have a look at some videos and saw that it was a lot of fiddle work to keep the mower from scalping the grass. Was wondering if you have considered a sickle side mower at all?

Yes, thanks. I will be looking at that as well once mowing season starts again.

If the truck has daytime running lights then you may be want to install a switch that interrupts the signal from the high beam to the relay and turn it off only when the daytime running lights are on. When you turn the headlights on, turn the switch to the on position and the system should work...

Nice!! Would you please be so kind and also provide us with some pics of the wheel spacers? Would like to see how the look and your impressions on how they feel regarding stability.

Thanks for the info thepumpguysc!! Was wondering if you are aware of any known issues with the mechanical injection pumps on the Kubota V2403 engines?

I would personally go with a switch on the negative side. If the connections you made ever came loose or something happened to them and they made contact to the chassis or sheet metal there would be no problem. If that happened with the positive side you would create a short with a very large...

Have you tried calling some of the parts places found online to see if they have any suggestions where to find this part? Otherwise if you are handy, or know someone who is, with a small welder, grinder and drill press you might be able to repair the part...?? Or take it to someone with a lathe...

If there are no external leaks then it is likely the control/spool valve that is allowing the cylinder to leak down. Sometimes it can indicate the piston seal is leaking. If you do a google you will find a instructions to determine which it is. Hope this helps.

I have the bh92 and would not want to be without a backhoe again. I do not use it very often but when I do it certainly saves my back from the job I have in front of me!! Also like Goose said, no need to look after another entire machine that mostly just sits around and is there when I need it...

I believe the JD 790 has a cable activated tachometer. Might be that you have to replace the cable..??

Yes, thanks 5030!! It has a grease nipple which is hidden by the shaft in that photo. I will certainly make sure to put the gun to it before I use it.

Here is a photo of the one I picked up. Supposed to be good for up to 70 hp. Have not had a chance to use and test it yet since mowing season is over in this neck of the woods. Hope it serves me well and does the trick.

Also consider ditches as a way of routing water away from your road to a low spot on your property,

I found an overrun coupler here locally and will post some pictures when I have a chance.

I realize it's not your model of tractor exactly but here is a video that explains the hydraulic pto clutch engagement a little.

Is the 1070 4 wheel or 2 wheel drive? It matters because if 4 wheel you need to keep the front to rear ratio close to what it has currently other wise the drivetrain will bind too much when 4 wheel drive is activated. if 2 wheel drive then the best thing to do is get out your measuring tape and...

You don't mention 4 wheel or two wheel drive. Try Messick's website and go to their online parts tab and put in your model. Hope this helps!!

Perhaps you could provide some pictures. You might have to modify your brackets.

First off your John Deere is not an Iseki, it is typically relatively easy to work on and find parts for. Even if you had to rebuild the motor, which I'm not saying is the case, you would still have to spend money on a different tractor and who knows what it might need. Not to mention the cost...

I would like to thank you all for your great responses!! I am convinced that I will likely try and get my hands on an ORC. I may have found one at a dealer near me for almost half the price of the one on amazon. Will have to try and get over there in the next couple of weeks to have a look at...

Hello all, I am hoping to get some feedback from people that use an over run clutch/coupler (ORC) on their tractors. I like the idea of saving the pto brake on shut down but was wondering if there is a down side to using them. Added stress or something else? Also would like to know which ones...

Just out of curiosity joecdeere, why do you not post to let us all know how to do this?

I believe this should be possible with any open center hydraulic system with the engine turned off. My tractor has a joystick for the controls and I simply activate the valve to lower the arms and then at the same time cycle left to right to drop or curl the bucket depending on it's position and...

I would suggest getting someone to determine where the noise is coming from and having a look at the machine. Almost impossible for us to diagnose over the internet if we don't know what is making the noise. One thing I would check is to see what the hydraulic fluid looks like. Any fine metal...

Welcome to tbn! Sounds like you are on the right track. If it is water contamination then I would try and find out how it is getting in otherwise you'll be doing all the work of cleaning the tank and lines all over again, not to mention possible damage to the injector pump. Keep the tank full to...

Not sure if your model has the infamous thermistor? Just google "John Deere Thermistor" and you will se some of the issues it can cause.

Sorry, I don't know your tractor model well but if there are any linkage connections they would need to be checked to see if anything has come apart. If the shifter is directly connected to a shaft that runs into the gear box then the only thing you can check is that the connection there is...

You make a valid point Roadworthy. Most of my equipment is under roof and therefore having the rods exposed has not been a problem for me so far. If it were stored outdoors I would tend to lean towards keeping the rods in the cylinders as well. Perhaps propping something underneath them so they...

Could be due to corrosion starting somewhere in the electrical system. I would disconnect all connections and inspect. Could also be intermittent safety switch malfunction. You also mentioned hydraulic fluid being fine. Just wondered if you made sure engine oil was fine as well..?? Please keep...

Messick's is a kubota dealer and a good start for sourcing parts. You could give them a call. https://www.messicks.com/

It is always advisable to relieve all pressure from your hydraulic lines and cylinders after you shut down your machine. This helps to prolong seal and control valve life. Simply activate the control valves until the implement achieves it's natural resting point with the engine off.

The only thing I would add to what 5030 said is that you should check the condition of the oil after running the engine for a while. Does the oil have air bubbles in it, does it look milky? When was the last time it was changed?

Replacing the pump will be the easiest way to go. If you are still getting fuel into the crank case, after the lift pump replacement, then there is likely a problem with the injection pump. Here's hoping that's not the case!!

Usually it is the mechanical diaphragm fuel lift pump that is allowing fuel into the crank case. You can either replace the pump or cap that spot off and install an electric fuel lift pump. With the electric conversion you would never get fuel in the crank case from the lift pump again. Hope...

Perhaps you could supply us with a couple of pictures so we may have a better understanding of what happened and how to remedy it?

I would really appreciate knowing what happened to that pump!!?? I always thought the V2403 engines were pretty indestructible including their injection pumps. Please keep us posted!!

Did you replaced the blade and it is slightly thinner than the original?

Lookin good!! Had a 1070 that I really liked..

Higher gear puts more force to the clutch. Just sayin.. I've always had good success, with a JD 1070 that I owned years ago, putting it 1st gear high range and stomping on the brakes while pushing down on the clutch pedal. Other times I have used ground engagement ie: plough or cultivator in...

Not quite sure what you mean by "splits apart"? I do not know that machine well but from images on the internet it does not look like it. Center disks are welded onto the rim. Hope that helps!!

You could try siphoning some fuel from the bottom of the tank, moving the hose around at the bottom, into a clean container and see what comes out..? I would use a 1/2 inch hose so the opening and flow are great enough to suck out the debris.

There seems to be an option for a mid mount hydraulic remote in the parts list at Messicks. Might be worthwhile giving them a call. https://www.messicks.com/commoncatalog?vendor=nh&modelId=138616

If it is still the original filter then try using a box cutter knife and cut the paint where the filter meets the hydraulic block. Make sure you go all the way around. Hope this helps!!

Are you or your father prepared to do the work yourselves? If so, do you have a shop manual? I am sure there are some people here that can help you but we need some further details. When you say hydraulics have failed, do you mean 3 point hitch? Do you have a front end loader? Does it work...

Is it possible that you have a small air leak in the line on the intake side of the hydraulic pump? As air is being sucked in and builds up inside the transmission case, when you have your finger on the vent tube, the pressure inside becomes greater than the suction force at the leak and the...

When you say "bit of fluid escaped", is that what is running down the side of the engine block or is that possibly fuel?

Have you checked safety switches?

As kennyd said, either will work but the 3rd function allows you to feather the speed of the cylinders while a diverter valve is either on or off.

Not sure about the seals but you are likely better off getting the hoses made by a local hydraulics shop. Hopefully someone else here can chime in regarding the seals.

I have noticed a bubble in the window even though the fluid is slightly overfilled. I tend to run it high because I operate on very steep slopes here. I use a dipstick borrowed from a car and stick it down the filler hole to get a correct reading. Not sure if your machine allows you to use that...

Thanks for sharing!

I think it would be important to find out why the screen is constantly being plugged. Can you show us some pictures? Typically a fill and drain a couple of times with filter changes is enough to clean out the system.

Pictures always help!! You could also take the old filter to a shop that sells them and they might be able to match it.

That is a drain for the clutch bell housing. It is there to allow condensation and oil to drain out. It should normally be dry but if you have an oil leak from either the transmission or the engine seals it will help keep oil from building up and contacting the dry clutch. 3 gallons of fluid is...

Hey 5030, what is the "bronze tint" you speak of due to using multigrade synthetic oils? I ask because I was thinking of switching to shell synthetic 5w40.

Perhaps try calling a few dealers and maybe they can help you. Or maybe even post some pictures of the control valves with some identifiers and someone here might know.

Not sure what the "cap plug" is but where the hydraulic hose attaches to the cylinder is an inlet. It is usually a threaded fitting. You should be able to loosen and remove that fitting and apply some teflon tape to the threads and reattach. Be prepared to make a mess with hydraulic fluid so use...

Another thing you could check is the bottom of the tank. If it's like the MX4700 the fuel line comes out of the tank a little above the bottom. Therefore, technically, it is the first water trap. I would put a clear siphon hose to the bottom of the tank and siphon some fuel out and see if you...

Can you tell what the issue is? Is it binding at the hinge point?

Have you made sure everything is lubricated? I have to say It is a pretty bad design!!

Please let us know how it goes.

I have had to fix mine and reinforce the tabs at the back where the hinge is. I have often wanted a little more room as well but can't move the seat back without hitting the ROPS cross beam. Perhaps higher and back might work, not sure, would have to look at the machine again. Also don't want to...

I have heard the JD 110 TLB have some issues with the transmission case or bell housing cracking. Don't remember exactly. Google and you will see. Just make sure you are aware of it.

If you have water in the bowl then you have water in the tank. Diesel with water in it is never a good thing. Usually you have to empty and clean the tank, lines and fuel filter. Then purge the water from the injector pump and the injector lines. Best is to loosen the lines at the injectors and...

I believe your tractor is geared, does have a 2 stage clutch? Does the noise go away after depressing the clutch in either stage? Just trying to eliminate certain areas.

What is the white crystal-like or foam at the top of the fill tube?

The cheapest way would be to just splice some wires in there and replace some of the connectors in the plug if you have to. You can usually find the little connectors if they are standard ones. You can google wiring harness pin connectors to find the right ones.

Photos always help!!

You kind of have to go by feel. It all depends on how high and thick the brush is. Also you have to consider how smooth the land is, having your mower bouncing around back there will surely guarantee repairs having to be made. You also want to be on the lookout for anything that might damage...

Could be the in tank fuel level sending unit. But hard to say with this tractor being one of the newer tier 4 machines and all it's added complications.

Looks almost brand new!! Nice job!!

I believe you have the main things covered. I would just ad to grease all grease nipples, lubricate linkages and check torque on wheel lugs and front end loader bolts.

I believe it is just better practice to put a switch on the ground side. If a positive wire were to come loose from the connections to the switch and touch the frame there would be a short with a large wire running straight to the battery without a fuse and the battery could very likely...

Yeah, I hear ya. Is there no way to get it rebuilt?

Glad you got it going!! Thanks for letting us know what the problem was.

1 ambiguous post and gone.. Seems to happen quite often.

Did you wind up servicing or replacing any of the control valves?

Sounds to me like you still have a problem with the starter pinion not engaging the flywheel. The other possibility could be that some teeth are missing on the flywheel. Try slowly turning the engine at the crank shaft by hand to engage another spot on the flywheel and try starting it again. If...

Um.. "Crank" and "turn over" are describing the same thing. So my questions are: is it not turning over or is it turning over but not starting and running. It helps to be clear here in order to diagnose. If I were to guess it sounds like a fuel issue. Does your tractor have a fuel lift pump...

You say from under the hood and not the exhaust. I would look around for something burnt like seville009 says. Perhaps a wire that is shorting out or you may have inadvertently bumped something while you were in there cleaning the filter?

Are you sure it's oil and not wet stacking? Google "diesel wet stacking" for more info.

Personally I would prefer a 4wd like most have said here, especially when equipped with a loader. But there is something to be said about a two wheel drive with filled tire or weights on the rear wheels and large size chains. I have accomplished quite a bit with that type of set-up on hilly...

Glad you got it all sorted and thanks for letting us know what the issue was!!

How many hours are on the machine? Have you looked at the water pump and thermostat? Sometimes a thermostat can get a little sticky and not open all the way.

I'm not 100 percent sure but I think they do not have any filters or screens for the chassis fluids, just the engine oil.

I would also trace and inspect the wires and make sure there are no issues with them.

It sounds like you may need to get the steering box rebuilt.

Beyond my previous post you may have to check the hydraulic pump and or remove the rock shaft case to try and further diagnose. Unfortunately it's been a very long time since I have had one of these tractors in my life. I was fairly young and it was my father's. So I don't remember a lot of...

Have a look at this. There are three separate systems it seems.

Did you manage to get the new solenoid?

It's a bit hard to tell from the photo but it looks like 4 bolts hold the seat mount to the frame. Not sure how easy it will be to remove that piece since it looks like there may be another piece of metal in the way. Once removed though you can either opt to replace the seat mount or possibly...

That is unfortunate!! Thanks for letting us know about the issue!!

Have you checked and or replaced the hydraulic fluid?

Do you have any pictures to show us what this "fiber like material" looks like?

That is very frustrating for sure!! Does the wire splice going to the alternator look like a factory connection? Please keep us posted as to what you find with further meter testing.

Not sure about the blue circle but the red circle looks like it might be your starter. If you have smoke coming from it then that is not a good sign. Might need to replace the starter. To bleed the fuel lines is pretty straight forward and there are lots of threads and videos that explain how...

I just reread my post and wanted to add a correction: Loosen the lines at the injectors and not the injectors themselves. And, if you have an electric lift pump or no lift pump at all then there would not be any fuel dumping into the crank case. Sorry, it seems my brain moves just slightly...

If a hydraulic cylinder is leaking down and there are no external leaks on the cylinder or the lines then it is usually a spool/control valve issue. I hope this helps!!

If a diesel is turning over and won't start it is usually a fuel issue. The fact that the fuse to the fuel solenoid was blown is still of concern. I would check into that a little further. Also I would make sure the fuel is flowing well from tank to filter. Then check lift pump (if so equipped)...

That sounds about right. I would then suspect the starter solenoid is faulty or the pinion is not retracting. Either way it sounds like you are back to dealing with a faulty starter.

Thanks for the update!! Just wondering if you could have cut the old out and replaced it with flexible hydraulic hose..??

I would take the starter back to the people that rebuilt it and have them test it or maybe take it to a different reputable shop to test. If it passes then it's time to bring out the test meter and check that power is getting to and then also turning off at the appropriate terminals during the...

Are you wanting to ask a question or are you just making a statement?

Perhaps you can post some pictures so we know what you are talking about?

Thanks for letting us know!!

I use a dipstick borrowed from a car and stick it down the fill hole to a pre marked spot at the top of the dipstick that lines up with the fill hole. I can then see where the level is at when I match the top mark on the outside of the axle case. I find that sometimes there is a bubble in the...

It sounds to me as though you may have bent something in the linkage..?

Came across this.. I see a MT372 in their list with what looks like part of the 3pt.. Hope this helps!! https://www.crosscreektractor.com/default.aspx?page=customer&file=customer/crcrtr/customerpages/used-mitsubishi-tractor-parts.htm

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was!!

You might have to contact a dealer for the manuals. They seem to be located in Australia and the UK.

Have you checked all safety switches? Could also be a bad relay. I would then start using a test meter and make sure starter, relay and ignition switch are getting power at the specific terminals during the start procedure. Please let us know what you find.

A bad fuel stop solenoid would certainly prevent a diesel engine from starting. It actually redirects fuel internally to shut the engine down on a mechanical injector pump. You can usually activate it manually by hand. It also typically makes a click noise when the ignition is turned on or off...

If you can visually inspect the tanks that they are connected with a tube at the top and bottom then they are linked. I believe this video is for your model. Look at the 2 minute 14 second mark:

I believe this link will take you to the parts diagram: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/64360/referrer/navigation/pgId/2414434

Best is of course to wait till you have the manuals. But I know it can be exciting to work on a project. Here is a link to the hydraulics on an 820. There are others but this is a start.

The usb outlets will typically have a small transformer built into the plug to drop the voltage down to the usual 5v. This transformer can have a slight parasitic drain even if nothing is plugged in. On the other hand a cigarette lighter plug has no transformer and therefore no parasitic drain...

Have you crawled under the tractor to take a look and see where the leak is originating? Perhaps post some pictures. Very difficult for us to help diagnose over the internet without further details.

Would be a shame to lose the money you already spent on the flail but a rotary cutter is certainly much easier and cheaper to maintain...

I do not know your model very well but from what I can tell from online pictures it looks like the starter is on the left side. Personally I would use a remote starter switch (sold on amazon). Less likely to make a mistake. Then watch some youtube videos on how to bypass starter solenoid with...

According to the parts diagram there is supposed to be a spring in the bottom of the water trap to keep the filter in place. If there was half inch of rust in the bottom of the trap I would suspect there is water in the fuel. The water must have been there a long time to disintegrate the spring...

There may be issues with the internals of the spool/control valves. Internal springs may have failed depending on how it is constructed. I believe you did mention one of the valves not returning to center position. Might have to take the control valves to a specialist unless you are willing to...

Nice job!! Just out of curiosity, why did you not install a generic 12v plug? You would have been able to plug other things in there as well.. ei. small cooler, inverter, etc..

I usually start at just above idle. Somewhere around 1000 rpm. I feel as though the oil pump might develop pressure a little sooner at the slightly higher rpm. I do not believe it will cause any greater damage at that level. Just my 2 cents..

Glad you got it figured out!! Thanks for letting us know what the problem was!!

Please let us know how things progress.

Please let us know how that turns out.

Just to be clear so I understand. The engine is not turning over? Have you checked fuses?

Sounds like you've taken care of the fuel side of things. Might it be electrical? Intermittent coil connection, plug wires, other connections??

Agreed!! They should have sent out letters to the owners of that model!!

It sounds to me as though you have had problems with the safety switches in the past. I would bypass them to make sure that they are not the cause of the no start and go from there.

I would first off disassemble the linkage and apply grease, moly grease if you have it, to all the pins and the moving parts of the linkage. Oil does not typically last long enough. I would try this first and then go from there.

What year is your tractor? From pictures I saw on the internet I'd be willing to bet it is new enough to have some safety switches. At least maybe a seat safety switch??

We would need a lot more detail to be of help. Some pictures maybe!! Hard to know what you have over the internet.

When you look at the moving parts when activating the hydraulics, it is important that that the grease gets to those surfaces. The end of the pin is usually stationary and therefore not as important to have grease. The surface that moves on the pin is important. Post #7 shows where the grease...

Some pictures would help us understand what you are dealing with.

I believe code 3146 means water detected in fuel. This can cause a bunch of issues if it is a common rail fuel injector pump.

Have you checked fuses? Also see if there is current getting to the starter. Not sure if your machine has safety switches, if it does then I would be checking them as well. These are some things to try and start the elimination process.

Have you considered buying the shop manual for your machine? I would imagine the codes would be listed in there. Or phone a dealer and see if they can help a bit.

I'm with Harry on post #3. I would think that the linkage and lack of lubricant is highly suspect. I would make sure that everything to do with the linkage is well lubricated and then go from there.

I would also be checking for possible loose connections and/or wire damage due to rodents.

It all depends on how smooth your lawn is. If you have undulations, shallow ditches or small mounds that you mow over then you will benefit from having a roller. If your lawn is smooth then not so much. The roller simply prevents the edge from digging into the lawn. I have one on mine and it...

Pics??

We definitely need more information. The bush hog 3226 QT I believe is a front end loader..? Do any of the other hydraulics work? What model tractor is it attached to?

The amount of work you have to do lends me to think you would be better served buying a larger machine, if you can afford, and then selling it when you are done.

Thanks for your response LD1 and letting us know what happened!! Sorry to hear that!! Another thing to keep an eye on. As if there wasn't enough already!!

Sorry to hear about your misfortune!! Thanks for letting us know what happened!