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Drilling the holes and attaching it was pretty simple. I forgot how much it would raise the top pin. Adjusting the top hook high enough works to hold the top, but it will interfere with the gooseneck hitch when turning. The easy way to solve this and make it so I don't have to adjust the...

Cat 2 would be fine. My other tractor is cat 2 with Pats QH, but the QH pins might be too big for that. I think assembly would be pretty simple, it's really just using the new drawbar to support the trailer mover as a whole. The angle would be a bit different, but I can adjust on with the...

Would work fine for bumper pull, but I have a gooseneck to move.

I have this cat 1 trailer mover and now have a cat 2 quick hitch on my 5055 with the adjustable top hook. I had a thought of just buying a cat 2 drawbar that will fit in the quick hitch (I measured), remove the cat 1 pins from the mover, then just bolting the drawbar to the bottom of the mover...

I ended up going with a Spare Parts Holland off of Amazon. I had to grind down the eye on the top side, but that only took about 15 minutes. I also removed the keeper so it wouldn't get jammed. Other than that, it seems to work well. I tried it a little with the box blade. It makes hooking...

I had cell based before Starlink st my old place. I was close to the tower, so I always got good signal. However the backhaul for the tower wasn't sufficient and I would only get 15-20 down. Same for a cell phone when I could get 50-60 on other towers (4G)

And brand preferences for cat 2 quick attach? I've done some research, and most seem the same as long as you get the adjustment for the top hook. Speedo has one that doesn't require the pins, but they only seem to make cat 1, not cat 2. I'm thinking of going Titan. It's for a JD 5055e.

I usually get at least 150 down, sometimes up to 300. The latency is usually pretty low. Which is a big part of perceived speeds for TCP connections. I work and home and we have streaming exclusively for TV and it's everything we need.

Any recommended brands/models for a hydraulic top link for a 5055E? I'm planning on just connecting it to one of the SCV connections. I'd like to get one with the lock to keep it in position when I'm not adjusting it. Also, is there any concerns with using one with a quick hitch? I may go...

Yeah, 30 is pretty decent for most stuff these days. Under 20 and things start to annoy me, but we use streaming exclusively for TV.

On one stream. Get three people watching TV and you'll see it. Or I'll see it at least, I work with this stuff for my day job. Netflix does squash the crap out of their stuff, a 15M 4k stream looks like garbage with a horizontal pan across choppy seas. I'm getting 250M-300M from Starlink...

You'll notice if you stream TV. It will still work, but you'll get a lower rate stream and the compression artifacts will be more apparent. Some people won't notice it. I remember in college when we finally got cable internet and we're amazed at the blistering 300kbps rate and not having to...

I went with the MS-362C-M in the end. I finally got to exercise it today felling and cutting up some standing dead juniper from my tree row. I mainly wanted to get a path that I can mow to the west fenceline to enjoy the view. This saw is a hungry beast compared to my MS-251C. These trees...

It's not dependent on the internet service type, it's dependant on your phone, carrier, and wifi connection.

DSL also degrades pretty quickly with distance over phone lines. Ghe DSL service I had at my last place would only get 5Mbps. It was 4000' of phone line according to the modem. I went cellular there next. I was close to the tower and it worked well, but the tower didn't have enough backhaul...

I could, but I'd rather not carry the winch there while driving or have to move it there and back to use it.

I have a 12V winch on one of those cradles that slides into a 2" receiver hitch. I'd like to add a mount to the trailer so I can pull a vehicle onto the trailer. It's a flatbed with a dovetail. I can weld (have a MIG welder), but would like to find something that "hooks over" the front of the...

We have a 2016 Tahoe that we've had about a year. I like it so far. I think it's my favorite generation for styling and rides better than the previous generation. One thing I didn't like was the front lower air dam being really low to the ground. I was trying to order the police version of...

I know I kept mine somewhere. I'll have a look tomorrow.

How close is that to RE232256? I have the book for that cluster when I installed it on my 5105. I don't remember what I had to go through to program it though.

I have a Cat 1 cultipacker that my Cat 2 PQH doesn't fit that well. The pins are too close to the frame, so there isn't quite enough room for the "hook" on the PQH. Slightly annoying because it would be nice to use it with that attachment.

Yeah, I initially looked at the Rancher and the 261s. Those are only about 15% more power, not much of an upgrade.

I'm looking at going to a larger saw and thinking about either the Stihl MS 362C-M or the Husqvarna 562 XP. I think they are pretty similar in power/capability/price. I don't put a lot of stock in online reviews anymore, so I'm wondering what brand people here like better. I currently have a...

The transfer switch can handle 200A. It currently has the 50A twist lock on thr bottom of the box. Easy to swap, but I'd rather not have a cord hanging out of it all of the time. I was researching what I needed to do something similar, but I got distracted with other projects.

They shoild have been introduced in the counties that voted for it instead of the counties that voted against it.

I did some research and asked around here as well. I'm probably going to go with the Winco 15k. I'm still researching a type of quick connection for it. My transfer switch currently has a 50A twist lock, wouldn't be enough for this one under heavy load.

Isn't this the first year for them? I never buy a new engine or platform redesign the first year on market

I was looking at the mirror kits from All States Ag Parts and they look decent. I just need some basic mirrors, nothing super wide, but ones that will last. Has anyone else tried these or have a better idea? https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/cab-mirror-kit-left-or-right-new-john-deere-169279.html

3/4" I think, which lets the connector through. The grommets that come with it will fit that size. The instructions might be online too.

Fire will do it for sure. Tractor Rebuild Part 1 - Long Farm and Furniture It could also be stolen.

I have State Farm. The home policy covers a certain amount of equipment used to maintain the property. When my 5105 burned, it was part of that policy. Just talk to your agent with a rough value of what all of your equipment is worth. It doesn't cover anything off of my property though. For...

For those with 60a or higher generators, what did you use for a generator inlet? My transfer switch has a CS6364, which is 50A. I don't see an equivalent for 60A or an inlet-style box/plug for a 14-60.

I need to update my profile, I moved back to Nebraska. I think I want to go with the 15k.

Nice. Which model is that?

Yeah, the bracket they recommend looks pretty flimsy and their heavy duty one is discontinued. I think I'd probably just grab a three point carry-all, put some PT 2x boards on it and bolt the generator to that. I could bolt on some casters for the shop floor too.

In your case, I might consider shutting off the baseboard electric heat when running the PTO generator unless you have a very large one. My last place had baseboard electric and a 200amp panel to support it. If I were to run this on that house, I'd probably shut off all of the baseboard...

My in-laws were without power for over a week in the humid summer from a storm this year. It gets hot here and I don't like it, so I'd like to have the option. As far as a window unit, we have casement windows that are horizontal in all of the bedrooms. It would have to be portable AC units. I...

Gas furnace (needs some power for the blower, but not much). On-demand gas water heater, so we would have to use hot water stuff while the generator is running. I'm with you on the clothes dryer. But I do want something that will run the AC, even if it means I only run that while running it...

I wouldn't run it 24/7. Probably twice or three times a day depending on the situation. Growing up, we raised hogs, so we had to keep thr farrowing house heated.

I get the fiddling with the PTO in the dead of winter thing, it's not fun. Growing up, we'd leave our field tractor hooked up to the genset before storms. We had a separate tractor for feeding chores. If I didn't have my tractor in the shop, I'd feel the same way. But if I can get it hooked up...

I'm thinking about getting a PTO generator for backup power for our place. I already have a manual transfer switch that was installed before we bought the place. I have a Champion dual fuel generator that would be enough to run the well pump and keep the fridge and freezer going if needed...

I ended up getting a used Z530R from the local JD dealer. I know it's not quite a commercial unit, but it seemed decent. I mowed with it the other day and it worked well. Certainly much faster than my rider mower. It took me a bit to get used to the controls, but now I'm fine with them. It also...

I would say whichever form factor you prefer. I use the streaming stick. I do have mine setup so shutting off the TV cuts power to the Roku itself.

Mine is the AX73. I've not tested the speed everywhere, but it works well throughout the house and in the metal shop about 100' away. This is just devices and Rokus though. I don't have any servers. Why not just connect the NFS right to the router?

Yep, we got rid of Dish before getting Starlink. It works well. I think my wife has had pretty much every streaming service at some point with the free promos and I've not had any ISP issues with them. Before Starlink, I had mobile internet that used T Mobile and some of the live services...

I went with w new TP Link router for my place. I originally got it to support mesh, but thr signal is strong enough with the new router that I don't need it. I also needed a wired connection for my printer. I got the SL included router a couple of years ago, but the wifi wasn't that great.

Nothing that impressive in stock at Tractor Supply. The interesting one said it was in stock, but they didn't have it. Bomgaars had Bad Boy mowers, but they were really proud of them price-wise for what they were. I'm not sure the suspension thing is going to happen, really trying to keep it...

Commercial mower is probably out of the question for my budget and needs. I'm probably looking for a mid to high end consumer unit. I'm thinking around $5k, less if used. The high end commercial units would be like buying a semi truck to haul a couple bags of mulch for me. For any "heavy" work...

The my ride thing looks useful. TSC has one in stock here. What makes a decent transmission in these things?

I think I'm going to upgrade from my riding mower that doesn't cut well. This would be to mow about 1.5ac, including around a lot of trees. I'm probably going to look at 48-54" deck width. I don't need commercial level, but would like something that is still dependable and serviceable. There...

Unless it's too expensive to run. Cable and fiber is better than Starlink. Starlink is much better than DSL. I usually get 250mbps down. The downside of Starlink is that it goes down in bad electrical storms. Ironically, the only thing I have on ethernet in my house is my printer. And that is...

My box blade is Behlen and it has served me well.

I'm thinking about getting a 3 point land leveler to keep the driveway smooth and level out various spots around the place. Just light duty stuff. I'm thinking about the Behlen 7' model from Tractor Supply given the good price point. I don't think I need scarifiers since I have a box blade with...

This is true the "backbone" of the internet is still fiber cable. Starlink just provides the ISP portion to get your connection to the internet just like the cable company. What makes it unique is that you don't need physical connection or RF/microwave connection and the very low Earth orbit...

My brother lives in the Nebraska panhandle. Coverage and speeds are good, but his is just a home setup. In low-traffic areas, you'll do pretty well.

Didn't watch the video on this one, but I've had pretty good luck selling power tool parts on Ebay. I had a DeWalt compressor motor die and a bandsaw I was trying to sell after I upgraded, but some parts stripped out and I didn't think it was worth repairing. I took both apart and sold the...

Huh, I never really noticed they got rid of the embedded page in the router. I guess they assume if you have Starlink, you have a device that can run the app. It probably does save them some headache with browser/version compatibility.

Dryland high-plains ground is typically share cropped with 1/3 going to the owner and fertilizer costs split, or 1/4 going to the owner and fertilizer covered by the renter. Owner covers taxes and any loan interest. Each insures their share. It's still pretty common here, too much variability...

Agreed. It would be easy to stick a dollar limit on it. Make it something like under $7500 and it's an untaxed hobby. Above that and it's a business with all of the normal deductions. But there is zero interest in making the tax code simpler.

It is a load of crap, IMO. Hobby income isn't subject to SE taxes, but adding it to your income adds up, especially if you're working a W2 job as well. There isn't a hard and fast set of rules about it, I think it's all about intention. What they try to stop, IMO, is someone using what is...

I've had Starlink for a couple of years now. I was always happy getting 30-60mbps down as the latency was really low. A few months ago, I got a notice from them that my cable to the dish was only getting 100mbs link and they were sending me a new one. I got the new cable installed, and now I'm...

Whether or not it is a hobby, you have to claim the income. It's in a different form. If it's a hobby, it's very difficult to deduct expenses against the income.

When I was a kid, one of our neighbors was retired and had a couple of four-plexes and a house to maintain. In the winter, he had an old riding mower with a snowblower attachment. He found a canvas cab setup for it to keep out of the wind. But the guy was about 6' 5" and it looked a bit cramped. 😆

When a random T-post jumped out in front of my 5055 last year, I ended up ordering a replacement door from Amazon. The fit could be slightly better, but it was about half the price of JD at the time. I spent the time plucking the bits of glass out of the old seal amd reused it. But I did waste...

I've run mine I'm Colorado and Nebraska, in my 40s with just general use. In CO, the dust from mowing and the sun make a cab favorable. In NE, the hot and cold are a bit further apart, so mowing is better with a cab. Where I lived in CO had more snow, so it was nice for that. However, the big...

I'm in the same boat. Cab or not, getting behind the wheel is nice. I didn't really mind snow plowing in the 5105 when it wasn't super cold or windy. The spring storms usually have nice weather behind them. The other improvement with my 5055 was front wheel assist amd newer tires. Instead of...

I have both and there are advantages to each. I like my 5105 (OSS) better for precision loader work, or anything where I might have to adjust the loader or 3pt from the ground. I like the open station for my PHD as well. I also like it better if I'm off and on the tractor a lot. Today I was...

I got the other cylinder fixed a couple of weeks ago. It was much faster since I knew a little more of what I was doing. So far, they seem good.

I haven't gone through all of the replies here, but I did spend five years swinging wrenches in a shop with both. We had an oil change rack that was four-post, and an alignment rack that was four post. The need for the alignment rack is obvious. The oil change rack is mainly for getting...

For the OP, it's a sickle guard as others have stated. It could be from a mower, but combine and swather headers use them as well, even more modern ones. I have most of a NH square baler in my tree row at my new place. I also brought some yard art with us including a really old plow and...

A single hose failure would cause the bucket to drop. But it wouldn't necessarily be at free fall speed, it would depend on the leak. E.g. a split in the line vs a hose blowing off a fitting. I also take solace in the fact that my tools and I do weigh quite a bit less than the loader's...

Agreed, especially if I need anything that won't fit in a pocket or on a belt. The downside of the basket is the need for ventilation.

The frame is metal as opposed to wood. It has a red coating, so is called red iron. But this also means the building does not have trusses every 8 or 10 feet like a pole barn. I personally don't trust a ladder against a z-purlin with a smooth concrete floor. If it's against a wall, I think...

I have one of the 3x3 work platforms for forklift forks that I lift with my 5055E. I do wish the railing were a little higher, I'm a tall guy. I know I could make it higher, but I just make sure I'm never reaching too far. If I am, I move the tractor. I don't climb up into it, I have my 13...

Yeah, there are a lot of messed up cases like this. Look up the "super slab" in Colorado. They wanted to seize a 12 mile wide swath for a toll road. It didn't happen in the end.

I grew up farming, but didn't have as much interest in it until I had already started another career. We own some land and always rented a quarter from my uncle down the road. But with land prices and inputs, I could never make it pencil out without some type of lottery. We are out in the high...

They make a big difference on my 2wd 5105. I'd usually put them on before the first big snow and only take them off if there was an extended dry period. Now that I also have a FWA 5055, I don't bother. I believe the chains would fit this one too, but I'll probably sell them as I never need them.

I've had my son run it for me since he was 9. Obviously, I taught him without anyone on the platform first. I would not want to climb a ladder to get to it. This year he graduated to moving the tractor with me in it. We have a solid set of hand signals we use.

I have one I got from Amazon about five years ago. It's a 36x36 with the fold up railing. I wasn't sure at first, but I figured it was really the forks holding me up. They say 1-2 people, but they are only 1 person. I do not lean against the railing or chains, I move it so I don't have to. My...

I guess I'm not the only one who used to move airplanes. I always thought the airplanes were easy to move, short wheelbase tug and hitch in the front made it pretty easy. With it hooked up to the back, just have to remember to turn the steering wheel opposite than you would with a trailer. A...

I grew up around 4020 tractors and a 105 combine. I've run and worked on both and I'm not that old. We even rebuilt the transmission on that 105 years ago. That one somehow became my project once it was out of the combine. Plenty of 60's and 70's trucks as well. All of it older than I.

So far, so good.

Got the first cylinder back together last night. No issues running the loader and no drips from the seals overnight. I'll run it outside for a while today to get the hydraulic fluid nice and warm and run it just to make sure everything is good. I'll tackle the second if everything goes right...

Well, the kit with #24 in the drawing had the right seal. Notice there are three parts in there and only two with part numbers. Now to get it all together and see if it all works.

Doing some research, the outer o-ring is correct, so I'm good there. Now to wait for the buffer seal to arrive and see if it fits.

That's what I would expect. I'm not sure if there's one in town. It's smaller, but a lot of agriculture in the area.

Dealer wasn't a ton of help. They're going to order the #24 kit to see if it has what's needed. I'll see how it turns out. Usually, JD is pretty good about these things, so it's a bit annoying.

That's probably what it is. There are some differences between the two, but the seal kits are the same P/N.

20 and 23 from this page https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/77758/referrer/navigation/pgId/2371832 Yeah, strange that it didn't have them, I expected some extras for different styles.

I'm rebuilding the lift cylinders on my JD 521 loader mounted to a 5105 (2001 model). The parts book shows many more seals than are actually on the cylinder, so the parts kits include several different extra seals, which is expected. However, I'm not finding replacements for two of the seals...

I've done this too, it's somewhere on my webpage. I just used the bale spear to hold the reel. Last year, I also got annoyed at trying to break up a small hutch building to put it in a dumpster. I ended up using the FEL of my 5105 to quickly disassemble it. :D

I've had the 5055E for about nine months now. I really like it so far. Of course, a cab heat/AC, and radio is always an improvement. We've had a pretty snowy winter, so it was nice to have. The back end is a bit light for the heavy duty loader. If I keep the box blade on the back, it helps...

Before the fire, the tach was reading incorrectly on mine. It was reading 2x the actual RPM. I had also replaced the speed sensor because it was a cheap part, but it didn't affect it. After the cluster became a molten pile of plastic, it really didn't work well at all. If you're getting...

For my place, I get the Christmas light hangers from Menards that screw onto an extension pole. They have a hook that hooks onto the gutter or you can slide them under shingle edge on the ends. They work really well and I don't have to get on a ladder. I do get on one section of the roof...

I'm not sure at this point. I don't have a need for two tractors right now. However, we'd like to move to somewhere with a lot more land and my kids are getting old enough to run a tractor. This one is a lot simpler to run than my 5055.

My idea to use bedliner on the foot platforms worked out pretty well. That stuff took about 10 days to cure, just a warning to anyone using it on something that can't sit that long. Fenders are back on. Really, it's almost done except for the seat, hood, and putting the brackets and loader back on.

Tonight I installed the intake grid heater kit. Since I had the loader and hood off, it was an easy time to do so. The install is easy, but the leads were too long. This is probably because this kit covers many models. I just made sure to tie everything up well when done. It's not cold enough to...

I've been kind of slacking on posts for this. Life happening and all that. I also decided to upgrade the shop compressor during this process, so that has turned into another series of projects....

Got my Starlink dish finally. The best place to mount it to the house was on the tall side with sloped ground. Luckily, I have a work platform that is setup to be lifted with a forklift. Nothing like trusting your life to your 11 year old son. He's done this before, but first time in the 5055...

I finally got my home service last week and got it setup over the weekend. I added the ethernet adapter and switched to passthrough mode, using my existing router. I've been working remotely for a couple of days, and it is a vast improvement over my 4G cell service.

Cool idea. If I were closer, I'd buy that smaller one. I'm not certain on that one, but most diesel transfer tanks state that they are not DOT rated to haul gas.

And I thought my fire repair was a borderline decision, lol.

Bridging is the most common reason people enter a bin as others have mentioned. Corn is the most common bridging grain where I'm from. It just tends to lock together better than other grains. We raised wheat and I don't think it's ever bridged for us. There are some safety systems such as...

Everyone has their own favorite ways of turning money into noise.

For my 5105, the part number is LVB25110 according to the parts catalog site.

Not with me, but I found it on the online parts catalog under fuel and air. It was an ad-on kit with the heater, seals, relay, and wiring. I conformed that the connector on the harness shows 12V with the key pushed in.

Honestly, a pre-heat will be enough for my needs and better than nothing. We usually don't get lots of snow when it's extremely cold here. Now that I have the 5055 with a cab and FWA, I'll use that for snow.

It's supposed to be a good brand. I'm more concerned about it not flaking off like the paint. The raised steel grate has a decent amount of slip resistance, but more traction won't hurt.

I'm used to these in diesel pickups that I've had, but I'm wondering about the JD kit specifically. The system on this one is not smart enough for a timer. Essentially, you turn the ignition switch to On, and push the key in. This trips a relay that activates the grid heater. You just push the...

I've decided that I'm going to repaint them green and then roll on heculiner on the top and the step. Since I don't need much, it wasn't bad to just get a quart and a foam roller. I'll sandblast the pieces before paint, so scuffing won't be an issue. I've actually had pretty good luck with...

Do it the old fashioned way with an oil filler can. If you have a place you can set it on, the style with the spout at the bottom works well.

I've not had any leaks from it when I've run and driven it. If I have to pull it to repair it later, it's not too bad to remove.

Oh, and I forgot to post that I got the rear lights working. They never worked when I bought it. Some of the wiring broke off and was just zip tied underneath and the bulb sockets were loose. I did to a bit of redneck work on this one since I didn't want to spend $400 for new light assemblies...

Still going strong on the repair after taking some time for some home improvement stuff. After cleaning up the melted plastic, I'm doing a quick scuff and rattle can on the top of the transmission housing. Not going to win any shows, but it should look halfway decent.

JD sells a heater grid kit for my 5105. While I have the loader off and everything torn apart, it would be a great time to install it cleanly. From what I can tell, these fit a bunch of models. How well do these work for cold starts for others?

Any particular brands to look for or avoid? Since it's a small project, a good brand doesn't drive up the cost that much.

The challenge is that there are very few used ones around here. There's a Tar River 6' for sale that looks decent, but they still want $2500.

Just a bit on the surface from hosing off the fire extinguisher agent. The areas where the paint was worn through are from boots on it. It's what I'm trying to prevent.

We've decided to hold off on a planter, but still want to expand the garden. The only tiller we have is a very small weed-eater style. I've rented a rear-tine when needed. I want to buy one, but want to go with a PTO tiller since I have tractors. I'll probably run it with my JD 5105 (45hp)...

I'll probably sandblast both platform pieces. Fortunately, they will fit into the blasting cabinet.

I'm going to have to clean up and repaint these platform panels on my 5105 project. As you can see, there was a lot of wear from where my feet are and some overspray from the previous owner trying to pretty it up. I was actually thinking about painting them with spray on bedliner instead. It...

I would agree with this if the brush hog and blade are in good shape. For reference, in 2018, I paid $14.5k for mine. It is 2WD with a loader and a bale spear. It did not have a brush hog and blade with it. I know things are pricier now.

Yeah, it's a bit melted, but still functional. It's one of the few parts that has some aftermarket availability. I also need to sandblast and repaint the column after I take it apart.

Yep, seems to run fine. I had changed the oil/filter as well because the valve cover melted and some water could have gotten in. I just had a string tied to the fuel control, so I need to get all of the linkages put back together next.

Wiring harness fully installed and time for a test drive!

Fuel line fixed up and I was able to fire it up under its own fuel and the new cluster works as well. After that, I pulled off the temporarily placed harness and installed the console support. Now I just have to get the wiring harness laid into place properly. Getting the main part in the...

Ugh, thought I had everything I need to run it on its own fuel, but there's a seal on the line to the injector pump that has a seal that is bad. It's not surprising with the heat, but I'm just annoyed at myself for not checking it. I had to pause for a few other things in The house. I ended...

Still waiting on a couple of adapters to get it running on its own fuel. I also started cleaning up the center console support and other metal pieces that need cleaning/painting.

Working on my 5105, the fuel line runs under the tractor and of course behind the dash where the fire was. Is it worth trying to find some kind of protector to protect the bottom so it doesn't get snagged? Maybe the plastic wire harness cover stuff? It's just bulk fuel line, so it is cheap, but...

Got it fired up for a few seconds last night. I had just barely enough of the new harness connected to crank and run it. I still have to put the new fuel head and lines on, but I ran it for a second off of what was still in the injection pump and shut it off. I'll get the fuel system done before...

Got a few simple things fixed. I also started building the new fuel head. I'm waiting for my filter order to arrive though. My box of parts lost a couple of things along the way, but the company is shipping out replacements.

We're thinking about expanding the garden and I've been looking at 1 or 2 row used row crop planters to attach to either my 5055 or 5105 (when I get it going). It would be for rows of sweet corn, pumpkins, and beans. Anything to look out for there? Have others done this? I have experience...

Box of parts has also arrived.

More teardown last night. No real surprises found. The bolts holding the console bracket were a pain with all of the molten plastic covering them. Of this was a better design, I could have left the orbital valve in place.

I'm sure it's a cost thing. Rubber lines running underneath could certainly be improved. It's just bulk fuel lines, so making/running some hard lines later on would not be difficult. There would have to be some short rubber sections at the tank and fuel head as well as a hard line disconnect...

I was also a mechanic in college, so I have an "eye" for electrical harnesses. This one is pretty simple. But my initial fitment will just be to get the tractor running before I order any parts or clean up/paint any brackets. That will give me a chance to make sure everything's right. I want to...

Wiring harness showed up. Valve cover from Ebay also arrived. The remainder of fthe critical parts should be here this week.

I decided to go with a cheaper Sony unit without a CD player. It has USB, so CDs would be pointless. It has a detachable faceplate, I thought those were done away with. The radio and adapter I got. Inserting the mounting bracket is just like any other DIN opening. Connecting the included...

2017 5055e got here today. I've done a little bit of searching on this. Obviously, I need some tunes. I need to remove the panel and see what I'm dealing with as well. From what I've found I need the antenna kit from JD, p/n AL222926. Looking online, that's a pretty pricey kit. Do I need...

We did that on the Massey as well. The front half is actually nearly balanced with the suitcase weights. We locked the wheels so it wouldn't try to fold with the steering and just used a floorjack and a couple of steel rims welded together to lift the engine side. Obviously that doesn't work...

Here's the other thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/john-deere-5045e-likes-dislikes-reviews.451406/ Those two transmissions are what's available on the 5e series. The 5105 has the syncreverser. It's a simple transmission but you're not supposed to shift gears while in motion...

I don't remember the brand I had before. They were larger disposable ones from Lowes. I bought Kiddie Pro 340s from HD to replace the ones I used and one smaller of the same brand to add. I now have 2 340s near the entrance to the shop and the smaller one at the back of the shop. I'll add...

What did you have to split the 2030 for? I've had to split the 3545 a couple of times.

I think the old cluster should be good for a core. It's mostly complete. Lol

Loader brackets off and some of the mess cleaned off. No surprises so far. Time to order the first round of parts. Loader brackets are heavy in case you thought otherwise. I used an engine crane, which made it pretty easy.

Hope you have some patience, it's going to take a while, lol.

Yeah, it had a fire a few weeks ago. Electrical fire near the fusebox that burned through the fuel line. The vise grips are a backup keeping the fuel from running out of the hose. I also have a bolt plugging it with some hose clamps. I haven't drained it all out yet. The only other option is...

I thought I'd use a thread to chronicle my repair of my 5105. Today I got the loader off, pulled it into the shop, and got the hood off with the help of my kids. My plan is to get the bare minimum parts to make it run, so I can be assured that it will run, before getting the rest and tracking...

Local Kubota dealer had one in stock. Now to wait for the delivery of my tractor so I can unload it out of my pickup.

I don't see the option for the Global attachment, but maybe I just have to call them.

Is there a more common name for this? Searching for it doesn't seem to work. I know the skid steer quick connect is more common. I'm looking for a good set of pallet forks with the global quick connect for a JD H240 loader. The local dealer wants $2k for Frontier. I'm in CO.

Well, I did it. It's a 2017 5055e with about 150 hrs. It seems really clean and lightly used. I'll have to get used to running a loader from inside of a cab, but brush hogging and snow removal will be really nice. It is the global loader attachment. It has a bucket and a bale spear. I have to...

Thanks for the detailed information, I appreciate it. I have a pre-def pickup with DPF, so I'm used to making sure I don't make a bunch of short trips and give it a good workout once in a while. I've never had that one go into regen. I have to laugh on the loader thing. I grew up with a 4020...

Went to the dealer in town today with the intention of trying out a 2wd 5065e to see how I like the tractor overall. That one had sold, ut they have a 2017 5055 with a cab and loader and only 150 hours that seems really nice. Might have to think about it even with the power reverser.

What would you look at?

How do you like the 5065 otherwise?

It might also involve a road trip for me. There are a couple around here, but most of the used ones close seem to be in the NE/KS/OK/TX areas.

So insurance is totaling my 5105. I've been looking around at used 5E series tractors, so I'm curious about what others think about them. I've read through the 5045E thread, and there is a lot of useful information there, so thank you to those who responded to that one. I'm thinking a 5055...

Yeah, I want to avoid new stuff. I'd probably be looking for another early 00's model of some type. I did check with the dealer, there are four of the replacement harnesses available in the US. ~$1700. I definitely don't want a used harness.

Well, the dealer wanted me to take it in to create an estimate. I get it, but they want $200 to tow it. I have a trailer that can haul it, but not a good way to get it on the trailer. Talking to the insurance company, they seem to be fine with totaling it given the damage (I uploaded a bunch...

Claim filed. It is covered. The insurance company has asked that we get repair estimates. My wife talked to someone at the JD dealer and sent them a bunch of pictures to get their estimates. She also has a call in to the local Kubota dealer who does a lot of JD work as well. Maybe I should have...

Usually it falls under equipment kept to maintain your lawn, but you'd want to double check and check the maximum coverage.

I'm guessing it will go that way. I believe I can fix it if I can get a wiring harness.

The fuel tank is behind the seat with a small portion of it to the left of the seat. It was not damaged. I went through and found part numbers of the major components that need to be replaced. My running total from a JD dealer site was $5600. I'm sure labor would double that, but I can fix it...

The battery is in front of the radiator on that one. I think it was the fuse box area or wiring behind it. My guess is that it was a small electrical fire that burned through the diesel hose running from the tank.

I don't think there were any mouse nests. I store mine inside of my shop and I've never had any evidence of mice in there. I keep a few traps out just in case.

Yeah, it's part of the home policy. I made sure with them that it was enough to cover it.

This happened Friday after brush hogging the larger areas that I keep mowed. I mowed about an hour, ate a quick dinner, and finished another 45 minutes. I parked it here and went to spray thistle on the 4 wheeler and my wife and kids yell "fire" at me. Must have been electrical, but the only...

My JD 5105 has an aftermarket seat (not a great one) that needs to be replaced. I don't necessarily want to buy all of the expensive factory parts to make it stock again. It seems like there area all kinds of aftermarket seats available online, but there is very little mounting information...

I'm wondering if there's a good attachment out there that can incorporate grass seed into harder soil besides a grain/grass drill. I had a building built last year and have a couple areas to seed. I had fairly good luck by spreading the seed then using the box blade to pull top soil over the...

I have a JD 5105 with a JD 521 loader. I'm looking at buying an automotive lift at some point, and most of them require you to unload off of the semi trailer when they deliver. The pallet weight is 1700lbs. I'm wondering how well this rig will do with that heavy of a load. The forks I have...

I finished this up a couple of weeks ago, but I've been slacking on posting the pictures. I put down weed barrier for the rock and added scribed pieces of cement-board siding to keep critters out. I went with cement board to make sure it wouldn't pull up moisture. It worked out pretty well...

The steering cylinder on my tractor was dripping fluid past the polish rod, so I ordered the repair kit and completed it today. Taking the cylinder apart wasn't too bad, but getting the new seals in place was a pain. It's not leaking anymore and hopefully it will stay that way. In the one...

One of my release springs broke and I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can order some spares online. The local farm store doesn't carry springs (weird, I know), so I might have to venture into town.

FB Marketplace is dangerous. I found a cheap Rhino SE-7, but it needs a bit of work. The wheel bearings need to be replaced and the gearbox is missing the input shaft. The blades and carrier are present, but I'm sure the blades can use sharpening. My plan is to get a replacement gearbox and...

Got it done to the point where I can start using it. I still need to finish sealing, paint add skirting, a bit of dirt work, and add some rock around it. I'll probably slow down a bit now that it has a roof and I can use it. This was the first time I put on a roof on my own. I'm not a fan of...

Was a little busy this weekend.

What do you guys think of the Pat's Quick Hitch system? Did you find that your top link was too short with it? I have a Cat 2 hitch, but I just use the sleeves for my cat 1 blade. I know they make one that attaches cat 1, but I don't want to lose the cat 2 capability.

Here's the blocks being dug into the ground to where they're all level. My compacting work seemed to do well, it was hard as heck to dig down a few inches by hand. Our soil here is sandy, so it wasn't due to clay, lol. Per the manufacturer's recommendation, I put down 4x4's. I could only...

Or at least a new shed. I got one of the shed kits from Lowes and unloaded it with my 5105. I was pretty impressed with how it handled 1400lbs. I could probably use some more weight in the back, the rear tires were a little light (had the box blade on the back). I just needed to get it off...

I have a JD 5105 with center-hydraulics and a joystick for the loader. I'm thinking I'd like to get a hydraulic top-link on my box blade and be able to run other hydraulics as necessary. I could just disconnect the bucket tilt and connect the other hydraulics as necessary, but I was thinking...

I was looking around on the tractor for the best way to mount a 50 cal ammo can toolbox. This bracket is on the loader and it seems like the perfect way to mount it. The bracket has a retaining pin on the shaft that holds it on, so it can easily be removed. My question is, is this the factory...

Almost done with the pad for my shed. It's taking a bit, but I'm getting the hang of it.

I joined the club and bought a used JD 5105 with a 521 loader. I've had it for about a month, and like it quite a bit so far. I've used it for a little bit of driveway repair to get the hang of everything. I've moved a bit of dirt around. I'm building up a leveling pad for a 10x10 shed this...

New member here, seems to be a lot more information on the internet than when I last dug into this tractor. So the background is I have a MF 3545 with the electric over hydraulic primary in the transmission (gives it 16 speeds). Four years ago, a bad financial decision about an alternator...