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I don't think so. I pull a 45hp tractor with loader and 6 foot cutter on a 20 foot trailer. It is about 8000lb. I pull it anywhere I want to go with a Tundra with no issues.

I go by my watch.

You are a bit low on hp for a 15 foot batwing, but you might get away with it. A 12 foot unit would be a big upgrade.

Weight is usually a good thing on a cutter, but a lot of smaller tractors that would need to run a 4 foot cutter I would lok in the 400-500 lb range,

It is good to see after the last few years.

I have one. I think you will like it.

Yep That sounds like a guy I want to do business with.

I have bought a skid steer mounting plate and a tractor seat. I have been pleased with both purchases.

I agree. It sounds like questionable dealer. I had a Bobcat and was treated fantastic.

Husqvarna had one,the last time I looked.

Put this seat on my tractor. It was not the easiest to mount, but good quality. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N4ZY40/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have sold several larger things. I took a cahier's ck. You can call the bank to confirm it is valid if you like. I have had good luck with cash. You can get a better price if there is no paper trail for the money. I am not saying it is right, but that is the way it is. Go to the police station...

I would not worry about oil less. I have 3 and they all work great. You get a little better performance and a bit less maintenance.

I like it. I bet you will too.

I picked up this one at Home Depot, I like it. Very quiet, powerful and the price was right. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-4-5-Gal-Portable-Electric-Powered-Silent-Air-Compressor-3320445/305026725

I think you might be on to something.

I have never used a land plane, so it may be better. A rear blade is better for snow removal but a box blade is better for anything else.

I know what you mean, but I have had the tubular version and had problems. Pins would jump out and the holes wear. I also had some trouble getting the arms as tight as I can with the turnbuckle system.

Used forks are pretty rare in my neck of the woods. I think when people get them, they keep them forever.

Most people seem to be running a 125hp green machine or more to pull a 20 foot cutter. They are heavy.

I feel your pain. I had a stick go through my oil filter. It cost me an engine rebuild. I'm just saying, it could be worse.

I think it is impossible to mow without doing it from time to time. Mowing when the ground is soft increases the degree of difficulty.

May be a Howse. The top 3 point does not look quite right. All Howse models have an oblong hole for the top pin to slide in, giving flex to you mower deck.

I am sure that anything you do will help. I do feel that a quick hitch with an implement that fits is a magical experience.

I have a 4710se that is about 3.5 years old with about 900 hours. It is in the shop now having work done on the hinge.

My DK4710se is in the shop getting a new set of bushings for the hinge where it attaches at the back of the dash. This is the third for my tractor. This seems like a low stress part to keep having trouble with. Anyone else had any trouble.

Has there ever been an instance of hydraulic failure due to using non branded fluid? I have never heard of one,

You are looking at nearly 5 hours to mow. That is a lot. Can you brush mow part of it and just mow it 2-3 times a year. I think anything over 4 acres or so will strain you to get in done in the evening or doom you to spend all your Saturday mornings mowing.

Heard good things about the wedge type lock washers. They appear to make a pretty strong mechanical connection.

What you say is probably true, but I have never heard anything but high praise about a Brown cutter.

Brush on last way longer, but is a lot more work.

Calcium chloride has been the death of a lot of tractor wheels.

Don't see much on Eaton lately.

It gets aggravating, but it is necessary.

I have looked at their mowers, and if that is any indication, I would consider one of their impliments if the price is right.

Sounds like a lot to me.I can think of several things that could go wrong on a steep hill with a pond. Hire it out or just let it grow.

I think the Husky was more popular in Europe. They may still sell them there. I think the job of getting the best $3000 mower is pretty tough. Most have the lowest spec motors and non serviceable transmissions. They do pretty well on flat ground. I think you can expect 5-7 years before you start...

I am curious to know what work you do with a compact tractor that a hydro is not effective.

I have hundreds of hours on cutters with cornhead grease in them. It works great and does not leak through the seal. I have had to replace gearboxes with gearbox grease, but not with cornhead grease.

Me too. Might save you the gearbox if you ever lose a seal.

I find it to be a constant battle. I use compressed air and a wand to get at the radiator. I also use water and coil cleaner from time to time. When you shoot water through from the back side, you can tell if you have a blockage by the water flow. It does not take a lot of internal blockage...

I have a Cheetah. I don't think it is quite as tough as a Turf Tiger but the suspension and speed are fantastic. The Scag deck is does a lot of things really well.

It would work on level ground with just a light cut, but anything else would be really difficult. 5 foot mowers can weigh between 450lb and 900lbs. That makes a difference.

The air comb is best. It will alow you to get at areas that are difficult with anything else. I have tried them all. You can do it with other tools, but not as quickly or as well.

I have had both brands. I think I prefer Woods , but not by much.

Not my local Kubota dealer. I don't think they could tell you the time of day.

My Kioti is a common rail and is pretty quiet unless you rev it.

The suspension section broke while I was doing some bushogging. I need to get a replacement. What is considered the best for the money. The factory seat was almost $1500. I am sure I can do better.

I think that is how I would do it but i would back off any tree bigger than your forearm. Just cut the big ones and push in a pile and burn them.

Looks like oil company profits are up about 300%. That sure makes me suspicious.

Maybe https://www.crossfilters.com/products/cfkit-maintenance-filter-kit-for-kioti-tractors-ck3510-ck4010-hst?variant=37963122868414

Good point. It is hard to do tractor things without a bit of weight. Always buy one size bigger than you think you need.

Lots of good mowers. Scag,Toro,Xmark,JD,Kubota,Grasshopper. You will be happy with any of them. Don't just focus on the engine. The hydro syastem is just as expensive. Make sure it is serviceable. Most are made by Hydro-Gear. The smallest I would consider is a 3200 series. The more weight the...

Woods is the best I have used.

I mow commercially and seldom see a use for shields. I have never had anything fly toward the tractor and anything out the back only travels a few feet. If you are mowing around people, I understand the need. I think it is something that looks like it should be a problem, but is not.

Top link is great, but you can get by without it. It is just slower.

Electric batteries are in their infancy. Think how far power tools have come in the last 10-15 years. They are stronger,last longer,and are cheaper. What do you think they will be in another 10 years?

All are probably great units. Woods sounds best to me.

Woods do run heavy. They are quality. I think the price is too high. You should be able to get a good used 48 inch cutter for $1000 or less.

I use a small wire brush.

That is what I was thinking. Weld on a piece of channel steel on each side. Drill the channel and put your pin there.

None of it looks too tough. Any 4 wheel drive tractor will do it with ease. 2wd tractor with loaded ag. tires should work as well.

Looks like this company used to make them. http://skid-lift.com/1908e-hd/

In 10 years, I have only had a delay in getting parts once.

I did the same thing. It is very handy

Ex-Mark ,Scag and John Deere make good units. I have had them all.Ferris is owned by Briggs and Stratton, who appear to be getting out of the mower business.

I have found the shaft usually is the culprit, not the a-frame. I have had some luck backing the tail wheel into a stump or curb to bend it back into position. The good thing is that the tail wheel stuff is all over E-Bay and is not very expensive.

I have yet to see one in the wild. I am sure they are fine,but there are so many great choices when it comes to zero-turns.

Any sub-cut with loaded tires should do fine. A drive over deck is a good thing. A standard belly mower can be pretty tough to deal with.

You guys are making it too hard. Lift your mower as high as possible. Lower it to rest the wheel end on jack stands or sawhorses. Crawl under with an angle grinder, a short section of 2 x 4 to wedge the blades in place and some leather gloves. Use a bit of care with the grinder and few minutes...

I had a 60". It was pretty light duty. That is really what you need if a 48". It will be used on a smaller tractor. I would think you are looking at 300-400. They use generic parts.

I think that is about where it goes for around here. I think a 4 hour min. is pretty common. I think you are looking at somewhere around $900.

35.000 is a lot for a 1025 in any form. I know things are high right now, but I would keep looking. I know the snow blower is hitting you hard.

No difference. I have the 4710 and have only ran out of power a very few times. I think 5 less pto hp would change that. I have worked with an under powered tractor. It can be frustrating. If you are just doing loader work, you will not notice it, but it shows up quickly at the pto.

I can't think of one person saying that their purchase from EA was not a positive thing. That is pretty amazing. They have been at it a while.

Bump it up to a DK4710. They only cost a bit more and will make you smile.

My dealer has several dozen still to be assembled. Does not have every model, but they have quite a few.

I have some R4s on my Kioti dk4710. They are made by Titan and look like a mixture of R1 an R4. They look a bit weird, but seem to work. They came stock. They may be proprietary.

I agree. What a deal.

Might move up to the dk series of Kioti. You will be in the right price range with a more capable tractor. Bobcat sells a rebranded version if you have a dealer close. Yanmar makes some nice tractors if you have a dealer near.

I go by the manual but the old fluid looks just like the new. I am going to run a fluid ck every 200 hours after I get past the warranty period.

This looks interesting. Has anybody tried them. It looks like quite a deal. https://www.crossfilters.com/products/cfkit-maintenance-filter-kit-for-kioti-tractors-ck3510-ck4010-hst?variant=37963122868414

I have a DK myself and I like it. I think all but 1 are turbos. I think the 4210 is not.

This is a good choice. You can get this one in a lot of different HP choices as well. The Kubota Jeff suggested is also a fine choice. Bobcat sells rebranded Kioti tractors through their huge dealer network. Get as much HP as you can afford. Get a loader. I know it was suggested to get a power...

It depends on the tractor. 19 hp would be pushing it, 24 hp probably be just fine.Most SCUT will have a midmount option as well.

Looks like an interesting tractor. It is a good size. Let us know how you like it.

They work well and are the right size.

Local dealer is a strange one. You can go from long established, good dealer, to a new dealer in the stroke in the stroke of a pen. You can also go from a good dealer to no dealer at all.

A cutting edge or a tooth bar will protect your bucket when doing taxing loader work. A bent bucket is hard to get back to the way you want it.

Ck out tractorseat.com. they have a couple. I put one on without a lot of mods.

I owned a Bobcat tractor and received incredible support from the dealership.

I have one on my tractor and it is super handy. Use it for light loads with the welded ring. You can slip in any normal shank into it with whatever you choose on the end. Makes it great for moving trailers as you can just pick it up without ever getting off the tractor.

I think clamp on forks work fine for occasional use. You can by old forks and have them welded to a quick attach plate. They work great but are not adjustable. If you weld, maybe $300 if not, maybe $400. The next step is a dedicated set. Probably cost you $500 t0 $800. It is a chunk of change...

You have a jaded view of things. There are maybe a dozen things contributing to the way things are. You are focusing on one.

I am a quick hitch fan as well. When you et all your implements to play nice with the QH, it is a beautiful day

I drove by my local JD dealer and he has a lot full of new tractors. I drove my Kioti to the dealer for some service and his lot was full as well. He had a stack of tractors out back that were ready to assemble and zero turns are far as the eye could see.

I used tape on my last tractor. I clamped a bit of Romex wire to socket where the leveler comes out. I can bend it adjust for different bucket angles if necessary.

After bowing my bucket, I welded my quick spade oo a quick attach plate. It was a bit of work, but it really made a huge difference. It is easier to get on and off and also easier to see around. i can switch from spade to bucket and back in about 5 minutes.

Ballast in the tires lowers the center of gravity. It can make a huge difference on overall stability.

All the Tractor Supply stuff except for the tiller is suspect. Try to find something more heavy duty.

I have had both. I think the DK is best unless you need the smaller size. Need to step up to the 4710. I think the 4210 might leave you wanting.

I can't imagine a dealer going from Kioti to Mahindra.

I have a Kioti 4710se and have been pleased. I shopped it against JD and Kubota. The Kioti was much smoother than the Kubota. The hydro whine on the Kubota was a deal killer. The price was a bit lower and the warranty was longer as well.

Is there anything by Tarter that is not too lightweight to be useful?

I am not sure there is a good answer. I have tried all kinds of things but It is still exciting when it comes to taking them off or putting PTOs back on.

I know several people that did the same thing.

It needs a floating top link. Other than that, I like the look of it.

They do have a great reputation. Not sexy, but well made.

Simplicity was under the B&Stratton umbrella until just recently. They plan to get out of mowers and focus on engines. Not sure what that might mean for the future. I am not sure where that leaves Simplicity.

Chain slots are nice as long as you don't frequently use straps or rope for lifting.

I doubt you will be disappointed with either. I was in the same shape as you a couple years ago. I found an almost new Woods at a discount and went with it. It is my7th cutter and I would say it is the best.

I understand that other people can have a different experience, but my Titan 72" cutter has bent every time it has had a chance. The specs look good but it looks twice as rough as my Brushbull even though is has been used less than 1/2 as much. I do contract mowing, so I subject it to more abuse,

I doubt it would work without some stellar engineering.

I like the looks of the Bad Boy. It has lift pins instead of shackles for the lift arms. Nothing wrong with them, but they will need attention from time to time. If they get loose, they mess up the threads and must be replaced. Not a big deal, not expensive, but can be a bit aggravating. Good...

Add Woods to your list and drop Countryline. Pretty good list. I don't know anything about Dirty Dog.

I think I have the answer. There is a safety lockout switch under your right foot. It looks like an old set of contact points on a car. If a blade of grass gets in the contact spot, the tractor will not start.

I think it was a Great Bend product. Great Bend was bought by Bush Hog.

I will have to say that Bobcat went over and above to make me happy.

Go use the bucket pretty hard and see if that jars things loose. I would check between the bucket and the plate for alignment issue or debris jammed in.

Put new blades on it. Vibration went away. The old ones looked just fine. Sometimes, you never know.

I would consider chain on forks.

I would still consider a tooth bar. I leave mine on 99% of the time. It does get in the way when moving snow or gravel, but it helps move logs and rocks and clearing bramble as well as protecting your bucket. It is kinda the difference between a fork and a spoon.

Walk behind trencher is pretty easy and quick enough. It is better than a tractor when the going gets tight.

I think it will work fine. I did something on an older mower a few tears ago. The only problem was that I lost the fine adjustment in the top link but it was not a big deal.

It has the football shaped one. It has a dent on it ,but I don't see it causing a vibration. It may be what I am cutting getting wrapped around the pivot on the blades because the vibration seems to come and go to some degree.

Maybe this is it. I tried to take a putty knife and some WD40 to clear them.It seemed to help but not cure the problem. I might try removing the blades and making sure there is not some debris still giving me problems. Good thing it's a Woods. Not a big deal.

I guess it could be the blade pan. It is dented but in one piece. New blades are $175. What is the cost on the blade pan?

My 3 year old Brushbull has picked up a good bit of vibration as the RPMs go up. I have checked the PTO shaft and blades and they seem OK. I found that one of the bolts holding down the gearbox was not tight, but I took care of that. I suspected that Maybe I bent an output shaft. I have run...

I don't understand why you would get a ballast box and not a box blade or a tiller or both.

I do some commercial mowing and have been through several cutters. Most are pretty good if you use them for what they were intended for. I have used King Kutter,Bushog,Big B,IMC,Hawkline, Titan and Woods. Some of these brands have been bought out and are no longer made. I was satisfied with all...

I checked it, but must have read it wrong the first time.. A bit of fluid and it seems fine. Another example of looking for the complex and overlooking the simple.

Got it back with a shiny new oil pan. The hydro system is acting screwy now. Will this Hell never end?

Got the hood fixed. Took it to the next job. Hit a chunk of concrete and knocked a hole in the oil pan. It was at the bottom of a steep hill so I had to winch it to the top of the hill with a standard wrecker so I could load it on a rollback. It has been quite a couple of weeks.

Reg gas cap did not work. It was non vented and caused all kinds of issues.

I know this is zero help, but it looks like an older faded Kubota.

Is there a way to secure your loader with a jack stand or chain or something else? I am not super concerned as I have had a loader hose rupture and the loader fell but not dangerously fast.

Shear bolts work fine in smaller cutters. If you are just cutting grass and don't have to deal with rocks or stumps, you may never break a pin. I think you need a 1/2 inch that is about 4 inches long. I would shop Tractor Supply. I usually put the nut on finger tight and secure it with a bit of...

I am noticing some vibration that I can feel in the steering wheel. It seems to come and go or at least is more intense at different RPMs. I have checked the blades, but seem to look OK. The stump jumper has a couple small dents, but nothing major. I am beginning to think that maybe I have a...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DK2-1639-lb-Payload-Capacity-4-5-ft-x-7-5-ft-Utility-Trailer-Kit-with-Bed-Tilt-and-Collapsing-Ends-to-Extend-Bed-to-12-ft-MMT5X7/206586893 Maybe?

I suspect that could be tough. You may have to modify another to fit your tractor. I have always loved the looks of a case lawn tractor.

i have bent some of the fins on my radiator by using a powerful nozzle.

Lost my gas cap the other day. I guess it twisted off while dealing with some brush. The local dealer did not have one so I grabbed a universal one at the auto parts store. It had to go to the dealer for another issue the next day. They claimed it is slow to start now and is showing a code...

Box blade followed by a drag.

What about a front mount mower with a rotating brush for snow.

I think you can get a rotary cutter for it.

I am at their mercy. I do some commercial mowing and it rained 9 days in June.I am about a week behind. Time is money. i just need it fixed ASAP.

The hood on my 4710 failed to shut after a radiator cleaning. Looks like two broken bushing mounts and a bent hydraulic support cylinder. The good news is my warranty ended the middle of June.

I have heard this before but I have seen dead batteries jumped dozens if not hundreds of times. Does this ever happen?

I found the Titan mower to not be as durable as others I have owned. It looked great and the price was good but it started bending on day one.

Check to see that the clutch disks are clean first. I would try somewhere between 25-30 lbf.

Looks just fine. I think quite a few members use the Speeco.

Wow, I thought they sold a ton of them.

That looks interesting.

The hydraulic service cost a good bit of $$.

I looked at the Blain's deal. it was going to be a $200+ difference once shipping was factored in. I got the 190. The first weld on it is the best weld I have ever done. I think i am going to be happy.

I had a Bobcat ct225 and it was prone to hydraulic leaks.

I found a Hobart 190 for 679.00. It is new with warranty. Any reason not to go for it? I have looked at the Eastwood. It looked promising but it's rating was about 20% inch less(3/16 vs 5/16) than the Hobart. I would like to have the 110 option.

Adding a Lincoln 180 to the mix. All are about the same price.

I have been looking at both the Hobart and the Everlast.

Have been using a 220 volt 170 amp cheap Mig welder without much success. I am looking to upgrade. I can't really justify the price of a Miller even though I know they are very well respected. Is there anything in the sub $700 range that will work for farm equipment.

King Kutter will give you as god a cut as any. I have had several brands. KK is not the most durable, but it cut well.

Check your hydro fluid.

40 hp should be plenty on that frame size. You should be able to pull a box blade in midrange. I think your tractor is not performing as it should. Forget hi range for any work.

I am working from memory but I think that is an option on ck models. You might very well have them. They will be just to the right of the top 3 point link. They will have black rubber covers with retaining tabs on the bottom.

Not enough money to get what you need. I think the good stuff starts at about $3500.

Life gets interesting when the filter itself starts to deform due to all the torque you are putting on the filter canister.

I have had the spade for about 10 years. I think it is one of those things that look handier than it is. My new tractor has a different bucket and it seems to flex quite a bit under hard use. My bucket has bent some. I plan to weld mine on a quick attach plate to keep it from happening again.

yep

I have used it. It seemed to work fine.

I always thought of the Prestige as the ultimate garden tractor. They (Simplicity) has the reputation as delivering one of the finest cut. I don't think they are quite a sub compact, but they are really close.

If it runs smoothly and does not leak oil, get it. A fine mower at a fair price,

I guess you are right as they are impressive, but they are pricey and overkill for most.

Mine is silent as well. It is the main reason I went with Kioti over Kubota.

I would definitely go with a tooth bar. I am not sure which one. I have a regular one bought from Bobcat. It is indestructible. It will not turn your tractor into an unstoppable digging machine.

Some of the top links have a valve on them to prevent bleed off. That, at least, is what I am hearing.

Thinking about hydraulic top link. I am getting mixed answers. Do I need a check valve? I see them sold both ways. What is the quick coupler I need on the hoses. I think it is a 1/2 inch pioneer male. It is going on a Kioti 4710SE.

I have a 4710 and had no idea!!!

Kubota is so far in my area in ahead in small and medium tractor sales, it's not funny.

Start your brush pile on the stump. Burn the brush pile a few times and part of the stump will go with it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/392923093508 This is the one I am looking at.

Anybody tried the top link sold on E-bay? Seems to be only one guy selling almost all of them . Looks like I can get it shipped with 2 hoses but no quick attach couplers for $210. It seems like a good price.

A good cutting disc can be impressive and fast. I have a tiller and it is fine but I would not want to attack a large piece of property with it.

You can probably call them directly.

I have had several ZTR's. All were pretty good. Scag has been the best. It was also the most expensive. Do not buy a ztr without suspension or at least a suspension seat.

Going over a grade on wet grass pulling a heavy wagon with a small tractor is, or at least can be, scary as hell.

Mine too. i can get the can started and rest the can on the floorboard. Way better than up top.

I think i would go with a 5 foot. They are pretty simple. Look for cutting edges and the beefier the build the better. This is one item not to cheap out on. A good sturdy used one is way better than a lightweight shiny new one.

Drive out what is remaining of the pin in the yoke. Just pot a 1/2 inch bolt about 3 inches long in it as a retainer. It will need a lock nut or a hole drilled in the end of the bolt so you can secure with a cotter pin. It works really well.

That was a fair price to start with. You got a good deal. Shear pins on a high HP tractor can be problematic. Make sure you keep throttle low when you engage the PTO.

Get one of the orange ones.

I am always amazed what beautiful work you can do with a drag if you just stay with it.

Sounds like the answer.(y)

Do it the easy way. Set the tail wheel on something like a porch or trailer so the mower can not fall on you. Crawl under with an angle grinder. The more amps the grinder is, the quicker it will work. The Harbor Freight on will do the job but you can spend more (maybe $50-60) and have a lifetime...

I had a 27 hp Bobcat. It pulled a 5 foot box blade fine. I don't think that you will run out of power before you run out of traction. I think 35 is enough, but nobody ever ever says ' I wish I gotten the LESS powerful tractor".

I think the metal carport idea is the cheapest, but no help with the rodents. I have had mice in my house from time to time. No shop will be that tight.

The gearbox is protected by shear bolt or slip clutch. The body of the cutter. tail wheel and 3 point are where 90% of problems that I have are located.

The mule is popular around here. Not fast or a good looker but durable, capable and a good price.

I keep a generator in the truck to power tools and to run an air compressor. Time for a new one. I need one that will handle a 12 amp compressor and i would like for it to be manageable if possible. My old one was too big so it took up a ton of room and was a bear to move or unload. What do you...

I have found two almost new bushogs for sale.One is a Woods Brushbull that is about one year old,the other is a Bushog Squealer that is maybe 3 years old but looks new. I like both and the cost and location are about even. Which one do I want and why?