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Cut to length like wheel harvesters/forwarders.

Did you ever get the enjoyment of working on the CTL gear?

No it’s flushed with bar oil in harvester application a bar tip on a dangle head is pretty exposed compared to even a chainsaw. Well cutting a tree you have a little bit of lift and a bit of push out in the direction of the cut so there’s always a chance of the bar being pinched or the tip to be...

Where did I get that from? Many years of running both hand saws as well as mechanical cutting systems from 3/4” to 404” and doing testing for chain/bar manufactures. When speaking to their engineers they say exactly that only grease when first installing by greasing well in service you are more...

One thing to think about is if you’re cutting wood there’s something that will be in or around that hole so why push anything in it unless you can completely flush that bearing out.

Don’t grease the bar tip you will take out a bar tip that way faster than just about anything. Those greasers are for doing your clutch bearing through the crankshaft if there’s a hole. The only time to grease a tip is when it’s brand new otherwise leave it alone you’ll save yourself a few...

With a lightweight 36 I want to say it was around 17.5 lbs mind you mine is a west coast trim saw with bigger dawgs.

Go longer on the bar and full comp chain these saws really thrive with a lot of aggressive cutters. If you do stay with the short bar make sure it’s running a 8 pin sprocket otherwise you’ll be 4 stroking in the cut more then likely. There’s a few things to watch for on them like the air filter...

About the best kind of preheaters are the diesel burners that circulate coolant with their own water pumps something like an Espar. These are used instead of the plug style of heater for Offroad applications as well as on highway applications it’s cheaper to run as well as nothing has to be...

The ice cleat? I have them on my harvester tracks they really don’t let you slide sideways, it’s not like a single bar grouser it’s much less surface area to try and dig into the ice.

@arrow @Gordon Gould Haven’t you guys ever seen the ice cleats for grousers?

It’s made me a good living doing it, it’s nice to be able to save out and sometimes it’s just nice not having to hardly touch wedges.

Using a jack isn’t something I’d recommend for everyone it’s a unique experience as well it can be nerve racking. That jack was setup just for some of the ones that aren’t leaning back that bad, if they are I have a dual ram setup that will lift 102 tons as well as they have a gauge to watch...

Let’s see how and where guys are using different methods of falling timber. Being out on the wet coast I’m sure I do it backwards to some but this is the standard way of falling out here.

It’d be interesting to throw them up against the real ones in an application like production falling running long bars to see how they hold up.

Here’s some good questions how long of a bar are you going to be running? And what are you going to be doing with said saw?

Normally hand cutting noon is about a gallon of gas in one saw, if I’m cutting, bucking, and limbing in the brush it’s not hard to go to noon or later on a chain depending on terrain and what’s around the timber or in it. As far indication of a sharp chain there’s an easier test let go of the...

I’d put it this way depends on what you call good cutting, to me a fresh loop off the reel cuts like garbage even though it’s square ground chain. A few minutes of time on the grinders and I have a chain that will run circles around a factory chain which means less fatigue on me the faller as...

Here’s the biggest thing what length of bars are you running? What chain? And what sprocket?

I personally own and run both falling timber the 462 reminds me a lot of the first generation Husqvarna 562’s that run good with up to 28’s sometimes 32’s. That 500 is completely different animal in that if you don’t have a long enough bar with an aggressive enough chain on it, it’ll four stroke...

Two examples of how a chain can change through out the day, the one on the husky is the first tree of the morning so it’s a touchy grabby vs one that’s been ran most of the morning on the Stihl 500i.

Flipping a bar is only as good as the oil holes being unplugged and rails being cleaned if those two things aren’t done what good is flipping a bar. If the pitch indicator works for that’s great but it’s no way to judge if a saw is cutting well, better way is the single hand test if a saw...

Something like a 372w or even an original 372 will run that 24” bar you already have same with a 562 all with better anti vibe vs the 460’s that are rubber mounted. If you’re dead set on Stihl I’d look at a 462 they’re a nice short bar saw, mine I’ve ran 32 but it’s not the happiest especially...

You don’t need that big of a saw to pull a 28 heck a 60cc will do it. If I was in those shoes I’d be looking for the lightest option you can with good anti vibe that way it’s more likely to get used. Also what bars do you already have?

For falling timber? That’s a new one.

That 500 I have had a tin lid for a muffler it wasn’t choked back the 462 is the same way. The bigger husky’s and echos both had baffles in the mufflers we use to knock out and add outlets to the cans normally for triple ports. These last Stihl’s have had bark boxes put on vs opening up the...

With makita dropping the gas line can you still get parts? I’d bet the saw had an air leak leaning it would be why the cylinder is scored.

If you think I run all of these even weekly that’s wrong heck even monthly, that 395 sits with gas in it from a year ago you pour it out put fresh in it and she runs without issues, 390 same way. Moral of the story is I do let them sit with e10 without issues maybe I’m lucky or maybe it’s as...

Yes I will, it’s just a carb on those saws and honestly most of the time by the time I’m done with a saw they’re worn out in the bottom end anyways. Normal schedule for me is one top end and then run it for a while then either get rid of it or scrap it for parts, by this time the bottom end is...

The fiskar or the council?

This was done where the 562’s were done when it was almost brand new.the upper is of the 385 I used was breaking in cutting second growth and still do when it’s called for. The other is a 395 setup to pull a 60” bar reason for that long of a bar is the property line right behind it and stumps...

There’s a big difference use to be anything in the 20’s was a short bar 30’s were the standard and 40’s up were long bars. I’ve ran those 555’s and 562’s since they’ve come out without issues we run standard pump 87 E10 fuel through all our saws I’ve never had an issue.

What do you consider a short bar?

Yes it only take a few seconds but that’s also time that adds up when you’re paid by production when you run a saw daily that adds up quickly.

It’s also going to depend on what you call a home owner saw, to someone cutting timber daily a 365 husky is a home owner saw. The big differences use to be weight, design, materials, power, and rpm’s. As far as computer controlled saws I’ve got a husky 562 that’s a first generation one and one...

No a square file has a cutting edge even on the narrow side. It’s typically found around production fallers for a few reasons speed, smoothness, and efficiency. I can take a smaller saw and run a longer bar just by adjusting the angle of the cutter vs round it’s a very grabby experience in...

Takes more power? Round takes more power to pull through the same cut it’s a much more efficient cutter it’s smoother and faster. As far as depth gauges go look into DGG it’s worth the money if you’re doing any sort of amount of chains. You don’t have to tell me about having a separate grinder...

This is the next step after a round grinder.

NW part close to Longview, we log as well as manage timber mainly doing commercial thinnings.

Somewhat right, it’s a pathogen and will stay in the soil till every scrap of Douglas Fir and Western Hemlock is decayed.

Was there an old scar on the butt of that tree? If not I’d be willing to bet the rest of those for around it would of root rot as well if there’s not a scar on that one.

Just a guess by the size, the bark, and the rot.

About 50 years old?

I’ll be dead honest we don’t see curved handles hardly at all out here when we do it’s normally at a hardware store or something. A good fallers axe is straight and allows the most power to be transferred. If you look at page 5 that’s pretty standard out here a few of us have tried Fiskars with...

Just have to watch a few things with them but they run really good with a long bar and lots of aggressive cutters.

When having to really beat on something the curved handle you loose some power vs a straight handle since you’re part way through your swing already.

For a wedge beater can I ask why a curved handle vs a straight one?

Can I ask why use chain vs cable chokers? I’ve never used chain chokers it’s always been cable normally at least 1/2” but this is with bigger machines and we’re pushing under the large fir on bad ground.

I would say you don’t know what you’re talking about when I say track skidder not track skid steer they are completely different machines. this is a track skidder they will push as well as pull.

Yes easier to work on a track skidder any day, it’s based on a high track design with the sprocket in the center of the track up high. It’s a dozer based machine with extra capability vs just being a dozer it’s also made to pull. I’ve spent a lot of hours around both style and will gladly have a...

Try to find a D4H TSK a little bigger easier to work on, factory swinger/single arch grapple with winch/ or just winch machines with high drives and made to work in the woods from day one.

Skip the dozer for a track skidder a lot more handy and easier to work on then the little Cases machines.

I’ve spent my fair share of hours in that seat.

This is our forestry planter an old Hyster planter.

The beforethe afteron this job all hardwoods are to be clear cut and made into chipper food.

@Jstpssng A person can never have too many, got to have at least one per size with good over lap that way if something goes wrong you can finish out a day.

I’d take a look at the crank seals with age of the saw I wouldn’t be surprised if they aren’t leaking. The 3 series were good saws especially for their time I ran the 385/390’s for years same the 372’s. That said we’ve lost our fair share of crank bearings out of those lower ends especially when...

When we’ve done line pulls on hard back leaners think about 20 to 30 ft back lean on the top we’re pretensioning the line before any cuts are put in. As you’re putting in your face I use a wedge with just the very tip in at a slight downward angle as an indicator for what’s happening just like I...

No they aren’t expensive but they aren’t fun to pack out with if you’re having to carry that can plus a can for bar oil. It’s nice when both cans are the same shape it’s a personal preference thing, I’ve gone back to an old see through oil jug just because it’s easier to pack and see how much...

They’re a really nice can the only issue I had with mine besides it growing legs and walking off is I had one of the three point dawgs go through the can one day. Here’s a way to justify it to yourself with the self shut off how much gas are you saving because you’re not spilling it? Also with...

Stuff like that is fine till you have to hike and carry all your gear with you it’s either one of the combo cans with some rope or two clear jugs with rope to tie them together. One other bonus is you can clip stuff onto the rope like a large water bottle freeing up a hand to pushing brush out...

Husqvarna

Chain storage that goes with you in the brush.

Seen a few of the end dumps on their sides here at the local pulp mill any sort of wind well they’re in the air and they’re flopped.

Maybe we’ll see what we can get worked out so that can happen.

Normally on the 42’s up to 50’s I’ll run semi skip depending on the power head I’m running and the 60’s up will be full skip. These are roughly my square ground teeth look, out of the box chain don’t cut. Even a brand new chain I’ll sharpen to get what I consider a good fast cutting chain, also...

100 percent argon? Are you welding aluminum? I’ve seen 100 percent co2 on steel or a mix of co2 argon on steel but never 100 percent argon. The reason you don’t want to use hardwire mig on something much more then 5/16’s is it not penetrate down into the root of the joint. Something like spray...

Anything that runs hardwire that isn’t spraying I wouldn’t touch for running over 5/16’s personally. That said I’d look into anything that’s a minimum of 200 amps so you can at least run dual shield flux core in 035 it’s a nice compromise wire that can do a lot.

That’s noble fir so it’s pretty close to Balsam what I was trying to show is if there’s no air or space any fir will die off early.

Does your fir look like this? Kind of junky and sickly?

I’ve never sent in they use to bug us about sending in for a few pictures and I probably should one day.

This might perk your interest for a bit. http://www.madsens1.com/mnu_photoalb.htm

Ever thought of making an adjustable reach for the trailer? How about push up stakes?

When you say wandering have you tried starting it in the cut then letting it go without a hand on the top handle to see if it’s you or the saw causing the wander?

Normally as I’m limbing them I’ll be bouncing on it as I’m going and you’ll feel if something feels loose vs being solid.

A couple years back I did one that was hanging out over a ravine with nothing holding the top and the butt was in the air as well doing exactly what I described.

So a yellow cedar, I’m not super familiar with but if it was a red cedar they can be a bugger to pull against the limbs. That said I’d be tempted to walk it and limb it how it sits to see if you can get the choker at least at the half way mark of the tree.

Is this western red cedar?

Having done stuff like that I’d limbing well walking it, take a choker out swing it from one side to the other well being on top. Next step is the fun bit take a bar long enough to reach all the way through put a face in it, gut the heart out, and finally a back cut then give it a tug with the...

1/4” or .325? It’s going to depend on what you call sharp, one thing I’d think about is how the bars are attached. How many of you have ever ripped out mounts on saws over the years? As far as a 3/8’s on an electric saw it’s going to be a heavy girl in a hurry.

40’s plus two feet of trimdouble scalers long logs, the short one on top is 65’.

What’s long logs?

That big Eco is fine it’s not a stock saw or something you’re likely to find very easily being their biggest one they make. Main reason I have it is for use on an Alaskan saw mill I have for long bars, for falling use I’d rather use the 3120 I have which doesn’t see much use either unless I need...

Only had it happen once it wasn’t even a warm day but it had been ran extremely hard for 5.5 hrs cutting large cedar and alder.

Having ran them hard since 2012 we’ve had very few issues but when the auto tune does act up it enough you’re normally done for the day such as a no start from heat.

There’s a bit of a difference between a pro saw vs something like a wood boss ms 029/290. Their newer stuff has been pretty good the filters on the 500i still could be better but it does the job ok like the 562 do as well. This gives you a rough idea of what I’ve ran and do still run for...

I don’t run others equipment one if something goes wrong it’s my equipment that gets messed up. Two I know how my equipment runs, how my chains cut, I don’t even let anyone else do my chains because I want stuff to be predictable.

Could you imagine the shipping quote on the the saw and bars alone?

Haven’t been to the East Coast in years and beer isn’t needed I’d just want my normal stuff so there’s no stump dancing.

I understand that but, what’s the break out force of that strap? A barber chair will load that strap or chain instantly vs a load that’s constant. If something is very heavy at all such as with a lowboy application you will not see straps used it’s all chain and at least 1/2” or not 5/8” minimum...

Chain will slide up a tree a ratchet strap will blow a part with the force of a barber chair.

If it was me looking at it I’d be tempted to face it up and a small back cut, then have at it with something bigger maybe domino all three at once.

Can I ask why most of you are using a conventional face with a tall stump?

Some of the blow down I’ve done in the past, one I can think of was higher stacked than this and it’s a good reason for a longer bar. For most of this stuff I seem to remember dragging out a 42 not because of the size, but just for safety of cutting only from one side and being able to be away...

Only suggestion I would make is put a small face into something like that to allow the kerf to stay open easier.

As my old mentor use to say it’s just a hardwood just chair it up anyways.

Ask the local shovel operator to split them with the grapples or heel rack.

A little deeper face changes the lever point at which your tree is past the hinge point. Take a situation where you’re jacking a tree with your 2 degrees of back lean over 200’ if I put in a face at 1/3 it takes that much more lifting to send the tree. Take the same tree that has a face closer...

Try an indicator such as a wedge or axe head, I’ll use a wedge to just barely set it into the kerf. If you see the wedge set back you know that tree is starting to go, now if that wedge sits flat you know the tree is sitting onto the kerf. It’s also something you can do with a sight cut it helps...

Just make sure you know where the center of gravity is, when you start to do your back cut you’ll want to do a standard back cut vs back boring that way you know exactly what the tree is doing.

Some examples of deeper faces, moving the hinge farther back made it so I wouldn’t have to wedge or if I did the wedging went easier.

why such a small face? Looks like if you had gone deeper closer to 1/3 maybe 1/2 way I doubt you would of had to wedge and if you did it would go much easier.

This should be interesting to try, head hasn’t been ran in almost 30 years and was last used on a JD 555 crawler loader. It’s a heck of a lot slower then running what I’m used to that’s for sure.New log loader sure worked good for a load in a pinch.

No such thing if you’re going to work in the brush but if you ever plan on taking a standard cab excavator into the woods make sure it has a cab guard minimum.

They’re nice we have an older Farmi unit but it’s not as nice or as smooth as a standard forwarder the controls aren’t as refined. From memory they weren’t that bad priced what kills your is the price of the tractor to pull one to where you’re not out of control with them.

Some fun from over the last 15 years from long bar work on some special orders to some jack work along property lines with corners not far behind either. Most of this doug fir stretches out to 200’ of usable wood before the breaks with about 50’ of busted stuff.

Nothing like cutting 30’ from your front door and a little steep/deep face work can’t fix.

150’ you can wedge, 200’ you can wedge, 250’ the same, 300’ you can as well, the point is it’s nothing new to be done. As far as using wedges you may not use wedges and have the luxury of putting stuff where ever you want, but in industry that doesn’t always happen.

What’s new about jacking timber over? It’s still a fairly normal thing to do in the industry especially on the West Coast for different reason such as RMA’s, Houses, Powerlines, or just to save something out better for a high dollar stick. This one that got jacked over was a back leaner on a...

If you can figure out how to hang a set of grapples you’ll be a lot happier since most will do a minimum of 270 rotation.

If you think the 576 rip you should try some of the hopped up 372’s we use to run 15k in the cut with full comp 32’s. Nothing wrong with the 576 they were just heavier and couldn’t spin the rpm’s like the 372’s they tried to replace. Another one would be the 500i’s they honestly do really well...

If you’re buying you want scribner the over run is nuts.

Here’s a table that might help, it would depend on what scale is being used. Everything I’ve been around is Scribner C so this is what our scale looks like roughly. https://cascadehardwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Scribner-Log-Volume-Table.pdf

Sometimes higher prices do, that’s where special order stuff come into play such as fender logs or floating logs being big money for not so good logs. We will see a size of knot such as 1” radius some times it’s 1” circumference depending on which grade as well as where it’s going.

How do they call the knot out there? Some places out here all call them differently especially if being bumped by a chain saw.

It’s about the leverage that a winch or grapple adds to those finals bearings. Think of a lever when you’re doing a hard pull with a winch/arch the finals on the low belly cats are the end of that lever. Now take a high drive style with the final above the track frames, when you apply the same...

Nice to see a Fabtek still running, I remember being around the owners some as a kid since we ran their heads for years.

Ours had arches on them, does yours?

Remember even then they weren’t taking the big stuff it wasn’t till the next generation that the big stuff was getting removed.

Some where around I have a picture of a 4.5’ fir that’s 120’ being pulled by a little 450 like that, they can move a pretty good amount of wood. The hardest thing on them is a winch or a grapple it’s a great way to take out a final bearing quickly, it’s one reason the track skidders had the...

Echo vs the 3120 both are “stock” that big old echo sounds like a Harley.

How new are we talking pressurizing on the tank I’ve only seen once on my old 562 but the temps were high in the 90’s it was past time to go home for the day.

If it’s like our cedar any amount of cedar will mess up a batch of pulp very quickly. Out here cedar is worth big dollars so it’s not uncommon to see some left after a clear cut since it’s not enough for a load.

When doing a clear cut it’s common to see stuff like that left especially when there’s not enough for a load. Can they chip Cedar out there?

You might look through the Parker catalog seems like if I remember right they make that sort of fitting. Another way to do it is a straight jic out of the cylinder to a short neck 90 on the hose would also be a smaller lift then the 90 male female union they added. Another option is a screw in...

Right below is a very heavily used road by most trucks in the area with these slick spears on the slope looking for any chance they can to find someone.

Having seen what can happen when even a few roots are left doing this way is a good way to barber chair a tree out. Let’s put it this way I can pick a root on the opposite side of a side leaner to pull a tree around with, but sometimes that root will yank out others it will stay planted and yank...

Are breaking all the roots or about 3/4’s of them out when doing this? My concern would be there’s no direction for the fall if there’s no roots left and if there is you can chair a tree up pretty quickly doing that practice. Myself I’d rather fall the tree and know exactly where it’s going...

Nothing like having to shovel log on some fun ground the bad part is we still go another 10 degrees without a line.

Better yet just shut it off, never trust a chain brake it’s a last resort measure for kick backs.

Do these winches have the power spool out feature like some of the bigger winches?

Have you guys ever thought about trying cable chokers they’re a lot easier to deal with, plus you can push them through stuff. This is a cat style choker my personal favorite since it separates the main line from the chokers.

We’ve done 125’ Doug fir poles with those little 450 and lined trees with them they’ll do a heck of a lot more then one would think.

Get a good peeling spud or try using something like the bucket on a tractor, we’ve peeled floater logs with a cat blade corner before.

It’s under settings advanced under your routers name.

This one is on a 6410 JD and if memory serves takes more power to turn then most 12’s that have been built. Original build specs are a little nutty but it was designed for Christmas tree stumps so everything is doubled up even the gear box is bigger. If a stump gets wedged in the tub it’ll stop...

Yes 5 times it’s about 60 years old last thinning was done we saw two export logs and a long stick of domestic out of them.

Yes one we had built years ago.

Yesterday’s afternoon project that tiller is probably older then some of the people in here as well as being extremely heavy 2500 lbs for a 7 footer.

Scalers here are third party entities that work for the mill or state there’s no shopping around for different types of scale unless you move a lot of volume think in the billions of board feet a year. I’ve heard some place do east side scale though so everything is based on short log scribner...

I doubt 10 maybe 7700 scribner scale the tops are over 40”, these are rough girls pretty ugly compared to the stuff that’s older yet.

Any guesses on footage?

I’ve spent a lot of years around Fabtek heads and JD 653’s I remember the conversion machines of the 90’s as well as earlier from Pierce plus Jewell. That old foot treadle to balance a tree was an act some days the best way to put it was it’s a broom stick upside down on a slick surface.

One of the biggest bonuses to a machine like this those tire are 710’s on 26.5” wheels for an idea of the size of the holes we deal with. look at all the water from this last weekends storms.

We’ve jacked stuff in some pretty good winds before, with a set of jacks like I have you can see exactly what that tree is doing. If the pressure on the gauge rises you know you’re in for a treat that tree is setting back. Without being there to look at the lays available it’s hard to say if...

No space to send it out the other way? Myself if that would of been possible I would of jacked it.

Late spring to early summer is when our bark is slipping as well when thinning it’s possible to do it when the bark is slipping it just take a different attitude as well as planning. Like right now our bark is just starting to slip so I start cutting differently, when big bonus to cutting in the...

Frozen isn’t my choice for working on steep ground I’d rather do it in the early summer/late spring with a little moisture when you’re most likely to have good traction. Ruts really won’t hurt anything other then looking ugly I’d be thinking more about your own safety and when is the best time...

If you’re going to be cutting on steeper ground make sure you pre lay the ground which means how you’re going to cut the unit. If it’s all for firewood it doesn’t matter quite as much, but start at the bottom sending them down working your way back up. Once you have the corridors established...

I’ve cut for a firewood processor before doing a thinning all you’d be doing is bucking it to a certain diameter size and knocking the limbs off. The guy I did this for was a one man show so longer length logs work out pretty well that way.

With that said who is more likely to afford the replacement tool and who’s more likely to have issues with that piece of equipment?

What’s less then an hour to grind a few chains, look the bar over, clean/blow the saw out, inspect the saw, and have stuff ready to go in the AM? Time is money and money is time right? How much are parts for not flipping bars daily or greasing your clutch daily?

If it works for you go ahead but I will say what I have said before it take about 3 minutes to fully swap a chain how long does it take to file one? You’ll also notice your chain will last longer then doing it by hand if you swap them out.

Myself I hardly file other then a burr on a driver or bar rails, I’d rather swap a chain out it’s faster as well as easier to grind at the end of the day.

You’re either putting a wedge in or not cutting up completely, we all have times we domino fall and it’s something I don’t recommend unless you have plenty of time with the pistol grip of the saw.

It’s just as dangerous to have the depth gauges too high you’ll use more energy which in turn makes it more likely you’ll make a mistake.

When I used a standard Oregon 511ax for doing depth gauges I left the head set at 60 degrees, shaped the wheel for a flat working area that’s parallel to the vise. How this grinder is set up now the head is around 80 degrees with a square edge wheel which gives a slight angle on the depth gauge...

Being out on the coast there’s always wind, that’s Sitka good luck sending a single one at a time in that mess.

If I’m in small stuff like that I’ll put the back cut in first so I can wedge it up tight then put my face in.

Why not just do your back cut first?

A quick trick to watch what a tree is doing is to set just the tip of a wedge in with the butt of it slightly pointed down. If the tree is starting to set back the wedge will stand up and you know it’s time to start getting some lift on the stump, now if that wedge keeps setting down no wedge is...

You’ve never had something really sit back then, there’s times wedge will do nothing if the center of gravity has come past center of your hinge. Pinching a BAR is something that will happen to even veteran fallers especially well bucking.

Bar wrench?

If you’re getting chatter you might have too much hook on a round tooth. An aggressive raker can cause chatter or bog/stall of a cut, but what’s more likely to help is a little back pressure on the handle bar that’ll smooth it right out. Great example is off side falling or clutch side up you...

Here’s one of the grinders I use depending on the chain for doing depth gauges.

Nah, Christmas trees are field grown and an off site species. Height is what I’m honestly thinking of most of the stuff I thin is about the same weight as well as diameters is the east coast mature forests. Take our hardwoods out here they’re taller and larger diameter in about 45 to 50 years...

You have to remember they don’t see the kind of volume out of the timber even east of the Cascades like we do on the wet side.

Neither that’s Doug fir just has a stain on it.

Something a little different any guesses of what kind of wood?

Isn’t that why there’s always two when falling a young kid to limb, beat wedges, and of course be pack mule?

Why do you need a skip chain on a bar that short? If the saw has the power full comp will be faster and smoother. Myself I don’t start running skip till 60” bars and that’s mainly for chip clearance.

So a 16” 6X’s driver chain takes 3 minutes to sharpen?

He crossed the back side of the stump instead of leaving from the same direction as where he was cutting from.

It’s going to depend on your personal usage myself I want to let go of those bars and only use the throttle to control the cuts. One way to think about it is if you’re having to use more energy you’re more likely to have something happen and not be on your A game well falling. Put on a long bar...

Mistake one is not looking up two he crossed over the rear of the tree. I’ve been hit years ago leaving the stump by a widow maker across the hard hat and shoulder knocking me out for a bit. Since then I stay closer to the stump and look up to access what possible hazards are overhead. The...

That was an inboard on a Stihl with the pain in the butt adjuster, an outboard clutch is just as fast to swap a chain.

I timed it one day when I was falling timber to swap out a 36” full comp square chisel chain and clean out the clutch cover was under 4 minutes. It’s faster, easier, and more productive to swap a chain out vs file in the brush especially when production falling. I’ll be honest with you round...

My pro sharp was under that 1900 mark brand new still in service to this day. The Silvey 500 I have is still in service from the 70’s, but for round I like my super jolly it’s like an Oregon 610 for harvester chains.

No need to pull a chain? How about flip the bar once in a blue, clean the rails, clean the oiling hole, and clean out the clutch cover are a few good reasons.

Paccar engines are Cummins and what about Detroit?

It’s an option when ordering a truck.

Take that pdf map and put it into Avenza maps then you can track yourself for your paths.

A good one I haven’t seen mentioned yet is OnXhunt it shows boundary lines as well as being able to drop your pins. You are also able to download the maps for offline use, it’s an app I use in conjunction with a few others for working in the woods.

We also have that style here but instead of locking out they will lift with the reverse lights, the ones with the dolly are fine if you’re doing long logs that can bunk. Now some of us put frame inserts in the bunks that allow us to haul short logs and if you’re running a 3 axle trailer you’ll...

A switch in the cab.

A three axle with a lockable tandem dolly pole for the PNW this company and General are what’s considered the standard for these types of trailers. With the three axle with the dolly up front it allows them to haul longer lengths without having to use a steer axle trailer.

Yes they do, in the old pole trailer someone lucky as well as small got to ride in the little car under the load to steer.

That’s a steerable pole trailer, a dolly is attached to something with a fifth wheel plate or bearing.

You mean a long logger with a reach? Or log trailer without a reach as in a pole trailer? This is a long logger with a reach the reach steers the trailer, this is easier to back up then the mule trains are.

Come on out an show us on the logging roads we have out here there’s a reason the trailers are packed in on the truck as much as possible. There’s place we’ve had to back around twists and corner a mile or two there’s just no place for a turn around. That one is setup to hop up on the back of...

It is a pup, a west coast mule train or short logger is a different sort of beast you can run up to 5 axles most are two axle or three lumber pups and mule train pups are where the term wiggle worm comes from. The advantage to the setup in this picture is you can hop up the front axle of the...

Try a mule train short logger trailer out in the wood a with a mile or two back in with the trailer down that’s why some of the dollies are lockable.

It has one, there’s a locking pin to center the dolly for backing up.

I think both are available to all markets, I’ve husqvarna c83 and it’s not as quick as what I like my square to be. I’d be interested in what the wheel will look like because you’d need some interesting geometry on it to make it look like that as well as possible a larger wheel like the old...

Stihl makes a hex file for the new style chains that have came out other then that I’m not sure of anyone else who does.

The only one I’d add that you missed John is the Vanguard style chain which is completely different then what you have posted there. Vanguard is more of a safety chain vs reduced kickback chain like you have posted.